I’m gonna be building my own custom gunpla for the second time starting soon, being inspired by Gundam Build Fighters. I want to know if there’s any way of being able to make your own custom parts, and if so, where?
Custom parts are just made from whatever you can find really. You can use an already existing piece and modify that or you can make up a custom piece from pla plate and putty. Or just a combination of both. You can then try to replicate the piece if you need another one or you can cast an identical piece by using your existing modified piece…[Read more]
No problem at all 🙂
I guess it depends on the piece you are trying to make. If you want, you can start off with drawing the design you want to make. And decide if you want to use putty, pla plate and/or scribing some new panel lines.
You can start the process by drawing the shapes you want on the pla plate. After that, you can start adding the…[Read more]
This is exactly what I came here to ask too. With the upcoming Phenex using ver ka waterslides, I really want to know this too… when putting waterslides on my Sazabi ver ka it was a nightmare until I went out and bought mark softer, but I’ve read that can damage paint… and top coat would ruin the reflective finish, I think? I’ve searched so…[Read more]
The general body could be ok with the water slides but protecting them is the issue…
But with the mg phenex, I got a feeling they’ll be rub on decals much like my mg hyaku shiki, and they’ll sell the water slides separately, of course I haven’t seen the proper decal sheet and this is based on speculation :c
For anyone who is scrolling down for the answer, finally got around to it, there is some effect but it depends on how much paint is used, I used tamiya clear coat and flat coat from spray cans, when I went full on NUTS and over coated a part with the clear I noticed the paint took off some of the finish and retained it when it dried (the thing was…[Read more]
I have an issue when painting my kits. E.g my MG Sinanju OVA, no matter how many layers of top coating, there are some areas that still remains dull after the coat has dried. It looks as if sand paper was used to rub off the gloss, though it’s only apparent when you look up close. I don’t use Primer, btw.
I used MR. Hobby Mr. Color Metallic Red with a brush mixed with thinner. Then I sprayed Clear Coat from Abro. Unfortunately I can’t capture the “blemishes on camera. But am posting the link to my Sinanju so that you can judge what’s wrong with my painting. http://www.hobbylink.tv/groups/completed-gunplamodels/
Now that I think about it,I also sprayed Abro Clear coat directly on my Takara Tomy Optimus Prime without painting it first, and on it too this happened-some spots would become dull after drying up no matter how many times I sprayed on it! Should I do something with the plastic first?
Gonna buy clear coat from Tamiya this time, but also paint retarder(for more smooth textures when using brush and Tamiya Gloss Coating Varnish. I think my PG Red Frame will be awsome!!
Btw I just wanted to know something. Some people say acrylic paint doesn’t stick on kits as well as the other paints. Is that true?
Hi all, I’m new to top coating models but have been using TS-80 Tamiya color (flat clear). Everything was going great till I did the wings of my proto zero. After it dried I noticed a few blue smudges (I have no idea how they got there as conditions were pretty good) I was wondering if anyone knows how to get rid of them? I was thinking about…[Read more]
Can you describe the blue smudges? Where were they? On the white parts? There have been no reports of blue smudges that I have heard of. A picture would be much appreciated. Sanding that part would be fine, however it will take a lot of topcoat to cover up that small mistake.
Hey thanks for getting back to me, unfortunately i cant put up any pics because my phone decided to die since then I’ve just sanded it a bit and repainted it with the same topcoat.its not expensive so yeah problem solved but thanks for replying i appreciate the advice :). yeah its a small mistake it just really annoyed me because the proto zero is…[Read more]
After much googling I’m still bit confused about what paints are “safe” to use on ABS parts like the RG and (some) MG frames, so wondered what your experiences and preferred solutions are?
I’m using thinned Mr Surfacer 1200 through an airbrush for priming (Mr Hobby Aqueous, Tamiya and Alclad main coats), but tests on some ABS sprue do seem to…[Read more]
I’ve airbrushed Mr. Surfacer 1000 on to ABS with no apparent problems. However, the damage that the lacquer thinner has on the ABS plastic will take a month to a full year to show itself. Tamiya acrylics should be safe if they’re thinned with their acrylic thinner, and any water-based paint will pose no threat to the durability of it either.
I find the vallejo model air paints are great. they seem to work well with other topcoats as well. they are acrylics so no problems with damage to the plastic.
Thanks for the tips! I’ve picked up some Vallejo Surface Primer and so far so good – very mild and silky smooth finish, but does need a few days to fully cure. I’ll also give the Mr Surfacer another go, as I didn’t know the degradation from lacquers would take that length of time to appear.
Ok so I finished a rg strike freedom, decal’d up (not water slides, using included stickers) and panel lined, but I wanted to take off the plastic sheen to it so I was thinking of doing a clear coat (matt) and yes, of course I’ll take the wings apart so I dont mess up the mekki gold 🙂
…but will this help the sticker decals at…[Read more]