Beware, though, the stuff may yellow. This was a huge problem for “Those Gundam Guys” when they used Future on the 7 foot tall Unicorn. I may stop using it based on their experience…
Back then, Future is clear, now is yellowish. And I heard from some builder that the formula is different from the past. so test some used part before on your real deal. 🙂
Hi, anyone who knows about the colors of the “efreet nacht”?
Im bad at color judgement, so ill post a resin pic of a completed model, im attempting to do one of these, my problem is would I need to color mix or can any of the tamiya or acrylic based paints do the job without mixing?
Tamiya’s sea grey might work for some of it, not sure what you would need beyond that since it’s such a fine line between a grey, purple, and royal or dark blue shade of colour, maybe all of the above and mix and match?
Well, I have been looking at the acrylic paint chart, X-16 is a purple, X4-blue, and x-3 royal blue are close, XF range of colours…Well I’d best send you a link to the Tamiya USA PDF document of the 10ml colour range (also because some of the colours aren’t available in the 23ml size) http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/ln/72/XF-chart-10ml.pdf .…[Read more]
anyone else having problems with the private warehouse on HLJ? I got an email confirmation that my order of MG wing zero custom has been placed in my private warehouse. but when I check in my private warehouse there isn’t anything there. It even says I have items available for shipping in my private warehouse.
I have a question. Is it possible to do preshading with spray paint? If yes, how to do it? I have access to Tamiya TS paints if this info helpful in making your suggestions. Thanks!
Spray cans don’t give you a lot of control. Personally I find it challenging enough even to try to paint a part with spray cans without putting too much paint on and getting orange peel or drips. That said, I’m sure it’s possible, just as it’s possible to sculpt with a chainsaw.
vegeta8259 did a tutorial for how to achieve post-shading effect using real touch markers:
Personally I prefer brushing an enamel powder (tamiya weathering master, etc) on painted surfaces/bare plastic.. The effect is cooler and you have more control on how the post-shading effect will turn out.
so I just ordered a really old 1/144 kapool from turn A gundam from way back, but I want to paint it into the capule (HUGE DIFFERENCE not really lol) from ZZ gundam for my set of torrington HGUCs, but it’s my first time painting, any advice of what I should avoid doing or what can help me so I’m not going in blind.
Don’t know how you’re planning to paint it (spraycans, handbrushing, etc.) but one of the key things when applying any kind of paint is to get it to a good consistency, and not apply too much at once. When hand-brushing or airbrushing this means thinning the paint enough that it coats smoothly, fluid enough that irregularities in the initial…[Read more]
Yeah I just found out that Tamiya sell something called Paint Retarder. It keeps the paint fluid longer so brush strokes are minimised! There also this thing called Tamiya Gloss, that is used to make dull parts of clear coating gloss. That’s what I need for my Sinanju OVA to become perfect!! Anyone using brushes like me I totally recommend both…[Read more]
Broke the peg that connects to the arm of the MG shenlong, fixing it isn’t a problem however i can’t get the peg out of the shoulder piece. any suggestions on how to get it out?
I had a similar problem with my HGUC Kshatriya. What I did to fix that was making a small hole in the other side of the joint and then using a pin to push it out. Hopefully this will help you out