Oh goodie! Another question: can I just buy a LED strip and cannibalize the LED’s? All tutorials I saw just say cut on the prescribed area (to keep the series grouping intact).
Hello there experts! Apologies if this has been asked before but how do you paint missile pods in High Grades, those that are molded together? I know it can be done by hand painting but I’d like that to be my last resort. I’m currently painting with spray cans.
Unfortunately hand painting is the way to go for this, unless you want to do a coat of the missile colour then mask each individual missile and paint the base colour over the rest. (or visa versa)
not sure how good reverse wash would work on this but you can give it a try. soak the cotton buds more than what you’d do for a proper reverse wash with the sinanju, for example. this way, the the paint kind of flows down to the base of the pods a little easier and reveal more of the missile pod heads.
It would be tedious but you can use you spray cans. But there still be masking to do and some hand painting. I don’t know if the missile bays and armor parts are separate and if that’s the case you want the inner part of the missile bay a different color then the armor parts. If that’s the case, some more masking must be applied.
Either way, I’d…[Read more]
Assuming you are only talking about that one piece without attached to anything
1) spray the whole piece the color for missiles heads
2) use thinner to thin down the missile base color
3) wet the missile base
4) pour (drop by drop) thinned base color on the base. make sure the piece is flat
5) let it dry
This ‘wash on steroids’ type of technique will be definitely useful on the pods for the Lightning BWS as it is a separate piece. However, it will be more difficult for those in the HG G-Self Assault Pack as it is one solid cavity.
Once you’re done I’d recommend getting an action base and displaying it in a well lit room so that the reflectors really shine.
Aside from that it’s a great build no matter what you do to it.
I also suggest doing panel lines, either with a Gundam Marker or an enamel wash. And a top coat of your liking. Most use a mat clear coat, but a gloss clear could be used as well. Whichever you like the best.
Good luck and happy building!
Personally I let them dry for one hour before putting on a setting solution and let that dry for one to two hours before spraying on a top coat. In your case, if wanting to use a setting solution like “Mark Softer” please first try it on a runner, so it won’t mess up the gold plating.
There are however people who let them dry for 24 hours before…[Read more]
Hey all, I just bought a Wing Zero Honoo and I’m looking into wiring it with LEDs (great candidate due to all the clear parts). I was wondering what kind of LED’s would be best to use for the Honoo’s size, and what gauge of wire I can use to make life easier. Stuff locally available that would seem suitable would be 3mm white LED’s (which costs…[Read more]
I suggest using a water based clear gloss. Vallejo makes one. Please don’t use an acrylic by Tamiya or MrHobby, as they are alcohol based!
First spray on two very light coats, where the product leaves a “grainy” effect. The last coat may be an all covering/thicker one as the gold parts and decals are sufficiently coated to protect them from any…[Read more]
For smaller decals, due to smaller sticky surface area, you can try Mr. Mark Setter as well. Since Phenex has a special coating on it, I would try the Mr. Mark Setter on one of the runners first, to ensure it doesn’t damage the coating.
You could try spraying, but then you’ll need to have the parts in a transparent clear. And getting those sparkles in there…?
Your best bet would be recasting the parts you want that effect in with clear resin, ad some pigment for the purple color and some metallic or pearl flakes to get the desired effect.
Sorry, but that’s the only way I can…[Read more]
yeah those effect parts were from the mold, meaning it was part of the plastic when it was melted and formed. if you’re happy enough with a paint effect on the outside, Tamiya has a spray paint color Pearl Clear. it’s a clear coat with sparkly flakes so you can paint any clear color you want first on clear parts and coat this after or probably…[Read more]
Can anyone suggest the best & fastest way to strip panel lining? I used the red gundam marker drip type for my rg zeta karaba. I did not like the outcome so i want to redo it using gray. btw iv’e done the panel lining it for about a year now and have lost my manual so as much as possible, I dont want to disassemble the kit. thanks.
looks like a 1206 surface mount led
Oh goodie! Another question: can I just buy a LED strip and cannibalize the LED’s? All tutorials I saw just say cut on the prescribed area (to keep the series grouping intact).
never tried to take off a strip,however they tend to burn out when i work on xbox controller