Oh goodie! Another question: can I just buy a LED strip and cannibalize the LED’s? All tutorials I saw just say cut on the prescribed area (to keep the series grouping intact).
Hello there experts! Apologies if this has been asked before but how do you paint missile pods in High Grades, those that are molded together? I know it can be done by hand painting but I’d like that to be my last resort. I’m currently painting with spray cans.
Unfortunately hand painting is the way to go for this, unless you want to do a coat of the missile colour then mask each individual missile and paint the base colour over the rest. (or visa versa)
not sure how good reverse wash would work on this but you can give it a try. soak the cotton buds more than what you’d do for a proper reverse wash with the sinanju, for example. this way, the the paint kind of flows down to the base of the pods a little easier and reveal more of the missile pod heads.
It would be tedious but you can use you spray cans. But there still be masking to do and some hand painting. I don’t know if the missile bays and armor parts are separate and if that’s the case you want the inner part of the missile bay a different color then the armor parts. If that’s the case, some more masking must be applied.
Either way, I’d…[Read more]
Assuming you are only talking about that one piece without attached to anything
1) spray the whole piece the color for missiles heads
2) use thinner to thin down the missile base color
3) wet the missile base
4) pour (drop by drop) thinned base color on the base. make sure the piece is flat
5) let it dry
This ‘wash on steroids’ type of technique will be definitely useful on the pods for the Lightning BWS as it is a separate piece. However, it will be more difficult for those in the HG G-Self Assault Pack as it is one solid cavity.
Personally I let them dry for one hour before putting on a setting solution and let that dry for one to two hours before spraying on a top coat. In your case, if wanting to use a setting solution like “Mark Softer” please first try it on a runner, so it won’t mess up the gold plating.
There are however people who let them dry for 24 hours before…[Read more]
Hey all, I just bought a Wing Zero Honoo and I’m looking into wiring it with LEDs (great candidate due to all the clear parts). I was wondering what kind of LED’s would be best to use for the Honoo’s size, and what gauge of wire I can use to make life easier. Stuff locally available that would seem suitable would be 3mm white LED’s (which costs…[Read more]
I suggest using a water based clear gloss. Vallejo makes one. Please don’t use an acrylic by Tamiya or MrHobby, as they are alcohol based!
First spray on two very light coats, where the product leaves a “grainy” effect. The last coat may be an all covering/thicker one as the gold parts and decals are sufficiently coated to protect them from any…[Read more]
For smaller decals, due to smaller sticky surface area, you can try Mr. Mark Setter as well. Since Phenex has a special coating on it, I would try the Mr. Mark Setter on one of the runners first, to ensure it doesn’t damage the coating.
You could try spraying, but then you’ll need to have the parts in a transparent clear. And getting those sparkles in there…?
Your best bet would be recasting the parts you want that effect in with clear resin, ad some pigment for the purple color and some metallic or pearl flakes to get the desired effect.
Sorry, but that’s the only way I can…[Read more]
yeah those effect parts were from the mold, meaning it was part of the plastic when it was melted and formed. if you’re happy enough with a paint effect on the outside, Tamiya has a spray paint color Pearl Clear. it’s a clear coat with sparkly flakes so you can paint any clear color you want first on clear parts and coat this after or probably…[Read more]
Can anyone suggest the best & fastest way to strip panel lining? I used the red gundam marker drip type for my rg zeta karaba. I did not like the outcome so i want to redo it using gray. btw iv’e done the panel lining it for about a year now and have lost my manual so as much as possible, I dont want to disassemble the kit. thanks.
Any suggestions for an Led for the RX 78-2 Ver 3.0? I would like to get the Bandai set but they only have green and red. And as far as I know 78-2 has yellow eyes.
Any responses are much appreciated. Thank you
just the 3rd party knock offs on eBay… or you can create your own LEDs. there’s a tutorial on Youtube. or buy the green Bandai LEDs, take them apart and switch out the LEDs with yellow ones. you’d have to undo the solder and re-solder with your own yellow LEDs. Bandai did release a yellow one with the P-Bandai exlusive Extra Weapon Pack for…[Read more]
tbh u should really buy the knock off ones. its not really a big big deal to buy it. its also a little cheaper as a plus. a while ago i bought the green led from bandai and the knock off and what i feel was that the bandai one was not as bright as the knock off and it didnt even last as long also the knock off is already pre built so u dont have…[Read more]
Hi! The hands of my MG Turn A just fell apart, bad plastic i guess. Is there any nice hands I could by that would fit it? It has white armor on the back of the hand that I would like you use but in worst case I’ll use any hand as long as it snaps in place.
I’m trying to figure out how to top coat the mg unicorn gundam. I tried searching online but couldn’t find a definitive answer. Am i suppose to disassemble the kit and top coat it? top coat it before assembly? mask off the psycho frame? I’m going to try and flat coat the kit and i think it will mess up the pink frame if i coat it…[Read more]
top coat will affect the finish. either mask or take out parts that you don’t want affected. now for the unicorn, i believe it will be easy to just put it in unicorn mode and do the top coat if it’s too much trouble to disassemble and top coat the individual parts. i only do flat coats on armor parts of my kits and i leave the frame and metallic…[Read more]
looks like a 1206 surface mount led
Oh goodie! Another question: can I just buy a LED strip and cannibalize the LED’s? All tutorials I saw just say cut on the prescribed area (to keep the series grouping intact).
never tried to take off a strip,however they tend to burn out when i work on xbox controller