Hi guys, I’m looking for a file set that would help me remove nubs. I’m working on HGs and RGs if that helps. I also pain the HGs but, not the RGs. Would you happen to recommend a great file set (brand and model)
I’m currently using the Tamiya Basic File Set (Fine Double Cut). I find these come in handy for really big nubs or when sharpening a blade. The only down side is I have to use sand paper after using them. Even tough Tamiya states them to be “Fine Double Cut” they still are rather coarse
In other words, they remove nubs really quick, but expect to…[Read more]
Hi all I was just wondering if there is anyone on this site that is capable of doing a kit bash using the back piece of a 1/100 HG Amatsu and putting it onto a 1/100 MG Blitz…
actually if ur shooting for mg
then use then buy the nebula blitz theres an adaptor to the back of it im not 100% sure but it should somewhat fit because the mold if for the blitz and there proportions are the same
so i think applying alittle putty and to connect it to the back of the mg should be fine and then add paint
if u want to go even…[Read more]
Hey guys, so I am waiting for my MG F91 harrison custom and I want to put it on an action base but I noticed that an action base 1 would be really big for it and I was wondering if it would fit on an action base 2 since it personally would look better on one because of its size and take up less space. Are they compatible?
Thanks for the feedback!Looks like I may have to find a different method to display him in an efficient manor, or take my chances with weight distribution.
If it helps, I tried to mount the MG Victory Gundam (a bit smaller than the F91) on an AB2 but the base itself came apart too easily. While the arm was plenty strong, I would’ve needs to add more bases to the existing 2 in order to have it stable.
Im thinking about taking the arm from an AB2 and putting it on an AB1 SInce the AB1 probably has the space for two models if you have the larger one elevated high enough from the bottom plate
Hello Q/A group I am new to the group and have completed (straight builds) 9 HG models. I am thinking about making a resin copy of a model or two. I would like to know 1) if you can make a resin cast of the polycaps and 2) what type of resin casting would be best to use to achieve the same feeling of the polycaps? Thanks in advance for any info…[Read more]
Hi! I have a question regarding of MG Gundam Exia reg ver. and I’m currently building it, and I have a problem on it’s hatch, it won’t stay closed, can you suggest something so that I can solve this matter? Thank you.
As I don’t have the model itself and not exactly sure what the reg ver. is, I’ve looked at the instruction manual for the MG Exia Repair and my guess is that maybe the innerframe part of the cockpit hatch isn’t “clicked” in all the way. In the manual it states that you should get a sound when it clicks into place.
Another thing that I can see from…[Read more]
I know that Samuel can print “custom” decals for you. So, if you have an opportunity to scan the sticker sheet you can send that file to Samuel and he can print it for you
I cut down a bamboo skewer or toothpick to a fine point then use that to paint details (I use humbrol enamels but any paint would work). This works well for 1/100 and 1/60 but is a little rough for a 1/144 figure.
I myself use a very small brush. I first paint the lowest detail on the figure and the work my way up. For example, if the pilot wears a jacket over a t-shirt, I first start with the t-shirt, then the jacket. When doing the jacket, hold the stem of the brush perpendicular to the edge of the jacket. This way the brushes won’t paint over the edges,…[Read more]
ok two questions
1. i just got a beargguy (SO ADORABLE TTTTTTT) well i want to paint it into the 1989 batman and i got everything painted except i have no clue how to do the…
it has a little transparency but opaque for the most part. looks like fluorescent orange paint to me. or it could just be a heavy coating of clear orange with flat coat. i don’t see any traces of a silver coat underneath though.
On the Batman symbol, I would take a big piece of masking tape and draw the symbol on it, cut it out, place it on the chest and then use paint to either brush or spray it in.
With the Banshee, the Psycho Frame looks to be a Orange Yellow (Mr.Hobby # C58). If you like it to be, you could mix it with some fluorescent paint to get it to light up…[Read more]
thx i tried that idea @teetee580 but the problem is that the symbol is so very tiny that its impossible to do ive tried it a good solid 7 times (yes i counted)
thanks for giving me an idea for the banshee daverb and teetee i wasnt too sure but my problem is that my hobby shop doesnt sell mr color they only sell tamiya so i dont think the…[Read more]
That’s indeed a lot of times. I guess liquid masking is out of the question too. The only way I can think of now is getting a waterslide for the symbol. I don’t know if you have a printer, so you could give it a go yourself. Or you could contact Samuel for some costume ones.
Yes, if Tamiya paints are your only option then a fluorescent mix is out…[Read more]
You’re welcome of course. I don’t know either, when putting a clear yellow on top of a silver, it gives a goldish effect, never tried it with orange. Think I’ll try it myself too. Anyways, good luck with your projects!
Hi, I’m new to this group, and I have a question, I have just finished my MG Build Strike Gundam Full Package, and recently my order just arrived, and it’s MG Universe Booster, as I looked in the manual, I just found out that I have to dissemble the Shield just to make it the absorb shield, and my problem is how can I dissemble it properly? I…[Read more]
You have to pry it open, but really careful. This is normally done with a parts separator. But I take it you don’t have one.
You can use your knife and gently stick it between the parts. Don’t use a twisting motion, as it will damage the edges. If you hold the part horizontal the move the knife in an upward and downward movement.
This way you’ll…[Read more]
another thing is if you might want to trim the pegs a little bit so the next time you want to disassemble them its going to be a lot easier. I usually trim them 45deg from the top.
As for a part separator, I just went to my local kitchen utility shop and look for a small plastic knife
I’m currently using the Tamiya Basic File Set (Fine Double Cut). I find these come in handy for really big nubs or when sharpening a blade. The only down side is I have to use sand paper after using them. Even tough Tamiya states them to be “Fine Double Cut” they still are rather coarse
In other words, they remove nubs really quick, but expect to…[Read more]
Yes this helps a lot! Thank you 🙂
You’re welcome. Glad I could be of some help