awesomesauce

long as you don’t doctor the photo’s afterwards, your good

HDR is just exposure trick. You don’t actually tamprer the photo, so I think is it would be regular.
At least…. legal with today with newest cameras (they take different pictures and overlap, you just see the final result).
Until few years ago you had to take separate pictures at different exposure and overlay them with photoshop. That would…[Read more]

I’ve not used the Vallejo air paint, so I’m not sure on how it behaves. I generally do paint inner frames though, usually Tamiya acrylics or Alclad and yes I top coat, usually with Future Finish.

Such a combination usually works well, but I’ve found that it won’t withstand heavy physical handling, especially if my hands are hot and sweating. That…[Read more]

you may also want to keep in mind that paint does actually have a thickness to it, if you’re movement is too stiff if could be the paint rubbing and then no amount of topcoat or drying time will fix that, what you’ll need to do for that is sand the surface to give the paint that little extra space it needs

I think I may have solve part of the problem, the primer I was using was meant for plastic but I guess it was just too thick to be used on hobby grade plastics. Thanks again for the help guys!

okie, 1. no you’ll have to touch up gate area’s no matter what.

2. if it’s acrylic & you seal the chrome first with something like future, yes.

the point of the undergate is to hide the gatemarks by placing them on surfaces that will not be seen so touch-ups aren’t needed but the question is whether or not it’s all undergated and how well that was implemented. as for the clear paints over chrome, that can be done but be very careful not to touch it or let it run till it’s completely cured.

Only just started painting like that, it’ll be mixed results…while you can spray while on the runner when you free the pieces you’ll have nub marks of what the plastic originally was and unless you got a paint brush or matching gundam marker it’ll be annoying to fix, plus if you don’t trim the nubs off the first time and then paint you may…[Read more]

wow thank a lot for your information masterDS64.

It’s always good practice NEVER to paint parts while on the runner.

okay as a user of these guys (I’m cheap, & i’m brutal on equipment) 4 is your best value but I would reccomend 3 for the beginner. 4 has to many options & can easily confuse most begginners.

both 3 &4 have pressure and moisture traps included which are a must imho. and to start your really only going to want a .3mm brush. it will be your staple.…[Read more]

Thanks a lot! your a life saver… that was really informative and helpful.

I was thinking of putting up a question for a beginner airbrush, luckily found yours first 🙂 but I’m from belgium and I pay in euro’s. So what currency are those prices in? I’ve no idea what KT is xD Definitly interested in that 3the set though 🙂

first off, time depends on what your using. So read your labels. Most products should state dry time, cure time & in case of non arasol paints it’s type.

Acrylics dry/cure the fastest, Laquers the slowest, while laquers are the hardiest (resistance to damage ie scratches) with acrylics the weakest.

your paint conditions will also affect…[Read more]

I am not sure about the quality of the plastic that HG Sinanju have because I dont have one. Try using plastic cement I think that should work. When applied it somehow melts the plastic and re-bonding the two parts together. Unlike some super glue that just holds the parts together. Hope you get what I mean. 🙂

Sorry to hear about it :(.
My HGUC Sinanju is frequently posed and only the shield connector has broken because my cork-board that hangs above my desk fell on top of it.
Possibilities I can think of for why it is breaking:
Did you paint your Sinanju? Some paints apparently weaken the plastic, which could result in what you’re seeing.
The only…[Read more]