I had just gotten stuck into snap building the Plamax 1/350 Cherno Alpha when the announcement came out so I thought I would use it for my entry!
I haven’t built a Plamax model kit before and so far I’m impressed with the molded detail.
I remember there were a few half snapped kits entering last time but I’m not too sure if the line of “started” is drawn at snap fitted or painted/prepped.
Can we get some rules around half snap fitted models @syd ?
The “Basic Rules” on the contest’s page does not mention projects in progress, only that you provide 4 WIP images throughout the contest. However it would be against the spirit of the contest to post a finished build that you already had pictures of that was done before the contest was announced. We should wait on an official ruling before anyone…[Read more]
I just finished snap building the Cherno and I must say that it looks great but definitely needs some paint to give it that awesome gritty look from the movie.
I was lucky enough to pre-order both this and the Gypsy Danger before they went to Order Stop on HLJ but I’m not sure when they’ll do a second run of them :/
Yeah there is a bit of a blank space in the rules regarding that, I wouldn’t imagine putting up a previous project is any good but I would like to see an official ruling around models that have been half built or snap fitted but not worked on, especially in the Intermediate and Advanced categories.
If I can’t end up entering this, even by…[Read more]
The long combined axes looks cool but unfortunately due to the wrist guard, there’s not much posing options-they should have made the whole forearm rotateable to solve that and guessing by the pictures on the box, I’m sure they realised that too!
The axes lighting up in the Shield together with a Light up saber. I’ve made provisions to light up everything at the same time! As for the cables I think that if I use a dark background and arrange them properly, they won’t be that noticeable!
I’m quite pleased I was able to keep the distinct circle of the mono-eye. How I did it? I painted the clear part with black except the back(where the LED is placed) and the front.
I used the 0603 SMDs. I used tweezers held by elastic bands to hold the SMDs firmly then bluetacks to hold the wires in place while soldering. It can be quite tricky. All the best!
Finished applying the HG decals, or most of them, maybe like 95% of them. The decals are not numbered and I had to use the MG ver Ka manual Sinanju as reference to know what…
Forgot to mention that the decals fit well, meaning except for the opening hatches, the HG and RG are identical in appearance. I also bought fully articulated hands for my kit and fitted magnets to them. Those little hands are very fragile. Could have used the RG hands but I couldn’t glue the magnets to them as I believe they are coated with an…[Read more]
Jeez, that looks great!!!!
Got those hands too in 1/100 scale. On the MG Destiny they look great, tried them on the MG Wing Zero and they looked way too big.
As the Sinanju is a really big suit, the hands a just the right size in my opinion.
Bought the rounded fingers in 1/100 scale for my MG Sinanju, but the rounded ones from that line are way…[Read more]
Thanks. Yeah got the 1/100 square ones too. Bought the 1/144 and the 1/100 for the MG Sengoku and the RG Red Frame, but they were too big in both cases-I believe they are for big MS like Sinanju and Nu gundams. But they are really fragile-they should have used ball joints at the knuckles like the MG ver ka hands. There are better 3rd party…[Read more]
Updates for my RG Sinanju with painted inner frame and added LEDs. Just a side note for anyone who’s gonna paint the frame too-Some parts aren’t meant to be disassembled…
That’s why I try to watch a much as reviews of a kit I am planning to build, to get to know some of it weak points, like weak joints, armor that may scratch paint off and such.
This is the first time someone gave such detailed information, exactly what I’m looking for in reviews!
So thank you very much Hellvin!!!!!!!
Hi!! Everyone. I’m building the RG Sinanju. I painted the inner frame as it was just so detailed with all these layers. But unfortunately the ankle joint broke-it was stuck and I tried to disassemble it. Does anyone know where I can get replacement parts? Or anyone willing to sell those parts to me?
I’ve finally joined the airbrush master race! I’m going to buy paints and thinners, then it’s time to practice just on paper.
I’m thinking of starting with lacquer paints, any…
i used the good old fashion tamiyas but prob with that stuff it scratches easily so you have to pledge it and wait a while but spraying with laquers dont forget to wear a gas mask that stuff is toxic but have fun with it keep a good distance away from the parts not too close or ull overspray n not too far so u cant do any good precise painting
Was that Tamiya Acrylic? My local hobby shop has a decent selection of them but I don’t know if you need to thin acrylic like you would for lacquer paints.
Thanks for the tips for spraying, I’ll be sure to keep them in mind when I’m setting up.
Finally, Nick has joined the party!!! 😛 Congratulations on your purchase!
The Tamiya acrylic paints need to be thinned. You can use X-20A or Isopropanol Alcohol. If you choose to use the latter one, make sure it’s at least 90%.
All paints scratch, so it is advisable to clear all paints….
There is no problem in using enamels in the airbrush,…[Read more]
Thinners…. As I read it. I got alot of problems during my past projects. Using Vallejo acryliccolors, i thought using thinner and cleaner from Vallejo should be an emprovement to just using water. But i figured, that thinner and cleaner kinda reacts with water, causing a total block of the colorflow inside the pistol. Just using water, I have no…[Read more]
I’m pretty rough when it comes to airbrushing. $30NZD airbrush sets and a nice medium sized cheap chinese compressor. I decant tamiya spray cans into the hopper and it stretches out the cost of the cans as they can be expensive. The outcome isn’t bad and it’s great for experimenting. I use a strong Resene paint stripper for cleaner for all types…[Read more]
For what it’s worth – I use a wide range of paint types in a lot of different applications which includes fine scale modeling/gunpla. I almost always use the thinner and paint from the same brand. I find that works the best for me. I use enamel a lot for base coats – needs a good long time to dry and needs a sealing top coat if you are going to…[Read more]