hi guys i am looking into a airbrush for my hobbys for models and custom making .i hate how using spraycans can somtimes ruin detail work so any tips on what i should be looking for and my hurt to my wallet.
Probably around $60-$80 for the airbrush itself, maybe around $100 or more for a compressor. Then there’s random stuff like the hose to connect the two, a pressure regulator (if the compressor doesn’t come with one), respirator and spray booth if you’re spraying inside, etc…
There are propellant cans you can use instead of a compressor, but I…[Read more]
It’s a costly investment when you look at it from what you have to pay in one go. But it’s going to save you a lot money on long runs. And give you that custom look you want with endless paint mixtures for that badass oomph Gunpla deserves. Just be careful what kind of paint diluent you buy. Happy painting. 🙂
Just didn’t want to use something that would hurt other layers of paint. And yea I’m new to how these newer models are cause I’ve not built a model thats not been 15 years old . Also this is the first one I’ve ever painted and ill be needing some help. Want to c what I’m working on check out my page thank u
well painters tapeis not ment to riun it also did u do a light sealer at it all..its just if u dont want to use sealer u may need to let it set for 24hrs before the tape to make sure it dosent ruin the first layer.also for a better tip its a snap kit like the airmaster .. i advice taking it appart so the color more smooth when speerated it will…[Read more]
I’ve learned so many things working on this kit. Not to mention finding hlj who showed me there was more then just hg in the world i really didn’t know bout pg rg mg till this year sad for sure.
pg and mg have been around scine the 1990ish i think rg are the newest scale that has come out and i like it detail of an mg in a small cheaper kit. its great u can private message me if u want to talk more.
I have to agree! Done some research on various sites and everyone seems to recommend Tamiya tapes. So I bought one. Been using it for masking for nearly a year, a lot better results than the regular painting masking tape.
You may consider using rubber mask for larger areas – Humbrol and Mr.Hobby do one. Use your tape to outline the area and fill in with the liquid mask, saves tape too.
I love the fact that there are people out there who are helping us answer these questions 🙂 … silly question, i don’t read Japanese, how would you distinguish the dry transfer stickers vs. water slide decals , i have the sinanju stein and v gundam ver ka and i am not sure what type of decals are included.
First off, stickers are not the same as dry transfers. 🙂 Dry transfers are way better, but unforgiving if you make a mistake…
Dry transfers come on a transparent plastic sheet, bundled with a matching-size sheet of paper to protect the markings. They’re sometimes called “rub-on” markings because that’s how they work.
Sticker sheets will have…[Read more]
waterslides seem to be considered the best however they’re also probably the hardest to work with.
Stickers are easy just peel and stick but the problem is the edge they make which is hard to hide.
Dry transfers are delicate, you’ll need to cut them from their sheet, align them then rub the back till the whole thing sticks and if you miss a spot…[Read more]
To add, I used to be scared of waterslides. I was lucky to have a few years younger girlfriend that’s been into F1 model kits and these are waterslide heavy! So I went with the simple solution, if she can do it, so can I. I was shy at first but (like with all other things) found out that there’s nothing to it. It’s much, much easier than dry…[Read more]
Thanks you guys for the support…. I tried both dry transfer decals and the stickers very straightforward… The only issue I am finding with water slide decals is that everyone is using something called Mr. mark Setter and I don’t have access to that where I am and. Can’t get it online 🙁
Hi guys, can I confirm something with you? When doing a camo scheme with blu-tac do I NEED to clear coat between layers? I ask because i’m going throught A LOT of clear paint. Thanks.
Nope. No need for a clear coat between painting different colors. Just make sure to give each color coat plenty of time to cure before you start masking for the next layer – you don’t want paint to come up with the masking.
Guys, I’m planning to build an Astray Red Frame, either the MG or PG.
The thing is, I want to paint the inner frame and make it a chrome like color.
Should I use gloss black as primer then paint it red, plus a clear red at the end?
I’ve read some people use gloss black then gold followed by clear yellow to make a bright gold color like a chrome…[Read more]
When it comes to candy finishes it goes like this.
Primer (recommended) – Gloss Black (If you don’t have gloss black you can paint it black then go over it with a gloss coat – Chrome/Silver – Clear Color of your choice
However it isn’t the only way either. You could do the same thing like primer, gloss black, but then you can apply the desired…[Read more]
I haven’t tried painting black first when achieving an extra finish. I’ve pretty much did Silver (was painting over red) and then did a thin clear red coat and finished it with a gloss finish. this method got me this result below, note the camera makes the kit seem more flat then appear to have a ruby shine to it. nothing wrong with what flash…[Read more]
I did that on my Astray Red Frame PG http://graemenattress.com/wp/10/ – Alclad gloss black, Alclad chrome, Tamiya clear red. It worked really well. The black just makes the chrome shinier and deeper.
If you want that flat/matte look then yes. Gloss first so you can do panel lines and decals – they are easier to apply and clean – then a flat coat. This combo also helps make your decals look more natural and it can even make the out lines of the seals/stickers disappear.
Yep. Dry and water decals are better for a finished product. 🙂 Its sometimes worth paying the extra and ordering the water decal sheets so you can have a more pro finish.