I am taking when you say messed up the paint job it means the whole thing. I guess it depends what the problem is. If there is bubbles and defects in the paint you could try sanding and reapplying. If you don’t like the color and stuff, I use a couple things sold here in the states Simple Green (though some primers can be resistant) or Super Clean…[Read more]
Any window washer should do the trick for you. I took the paint off of a whole Enterprise carrier 1/720 that I painted years before and wanted to do a repaint. I haven’t painted it yet but the paint went down pretty nicely. You may have to let it sit in it for a while though. Some of my older painted stuff had to sit in the window washer/glass…[Read more]
I’ve found at my local hobby store here in france Carson Model Sport’s “Paint Killer”.
Here’s what’s written on the label:
“Removes any polycarbonate and acrylic paints from bodies, diecast and plastic models without damaging the surface underneath”
I usually use it to clean my brushes but one day I totally missed a paint on my NG Strike Freedom…[Read more]
Johann, I second what Bode states since it is only a small part, you may want to consider sanding down the build up first though so you don’t have to use to much thinner.
has anyone tried painting a kit following the actually paint mixing ratios for particular colors from the manuals? I’ve found for the most part they’re a decent match to the color represented on the page but yellow seems to be a real problem it tends to be too orange. Any suggestions how I can get the yellow to mix better, or is it a…[Read more]
I’m using just the plain yellow (Mr.Color C4). I’ve actually tried about 3 times with 3 different kits and it’s always too orange. for instance the Deathscythe MG has this formula 45%yellow, 35% white, 20% orange. This particular yellow mix as you maybe able to tell from the percentages does actually have a fair bit of orange in it but if you…[Read more]
I’m in the middle of building the Gundam wing, there are a lot of small pieces, and I find it frustrating trying to put them together, my hands start sweating which makes it more difficult 🙁 any tips would be great, maybe to where gloves??
I’d recommend tweezers for handling smaller parts, and also you don’t have to build a model all at once, if you’re starting to get sweaty or frustrated then just walk away and do some more later.
As for gloves, well that’s up to you it’d stop sweat and your natural body oils from getting on the plastic but it’d also make gripping these small…[Read more]
Rubber gloves are the way to go. In my case anyway. The thin type. I call them condom gloves for obvious reasons. 🙂 It helps you get the sweat off of your work in progress, damaging the paint and minor scratches etc etc. Don’t forget to wash your hands after using those before touching your models because they’re powder-coated inside for easier…[Read more]
I have a 1/144 HG Graham’s Custom Union flag. One problem I’ve been having though is that the hip joint connecting each leg is loose. It’s a ball and socket joint, but not polycap,, just regular polystyrene. So there isn’t enough friction to keep it in place. The arms are the same, but I think they’re light enough that the friction…[Read more]
The joint is actually ABS and styrene, but, yeah…
The thing about a joint like this is that tightening it can be dangerous. There’s a chance that the increased stress on the part could crack it, which will make the whole situation worse.
If you still want to try it, you can apply a thin layer of super glue to the ball joint, let it cure, and…[Read more]
You could always take a little sticky tack and put it in the socket then when the connection is made it will spread and cause that friction you are looking for but still be movable. Best thing with that is if it messes up you can disconnect, take some tweezers, pull the sticky tack out and try again.
hello guys i have another question who heres been some of the new scaled startrek models what scale should i buy if i want something close to a foot in scale or little over.
Depends which ship you’re building. The original Enterprise is about 1000 feet long, so in 1/1000 scale it’s a little under a foot long. The ship from the 2009 film is larger (sometimes… it’s complicated) but the 1:500 kit of it is nevertheless around 2 feet long.
Is any one able to help me, I want to paint the inner frame of my nu ver ka but wanted to know is it best to prime the frame first or to just paint it?
If you are going from a darker frame to a lighter one, you may want to use a white primer underneath or it may take extra coats of paint. I have done it both ways and without the primer if you go to a lighter color you can get a cool shadowing look to it. I always cut off just a side to the runner (not the actual parts) and test how things will look
primer is generally a good idea. Primer isn’t just a coat of paint to cover the original color, it actually is formulated to stick better and to allow the paints you apply after to stick to it. That said every layer of paint of primer or topcoat will add a slight thickness to a part and that can cause problems where pieces stick tightly…[Read more]
No primer should be used. And as few paint layers as you can. One would be ideal. Or else you’re gonna have huge problems putting the armor on because of the layers. Risking breaking or not connecting at the seams. If you’re doing something crazy, like painting darker frame into, say, white, you’re not gonna have that plain white you may have…[Read more]