well, kind of an unfortunate but kinda good update! I went down to my local hobbytown and though they had one in stock at their warehouse they didn’t have one in the store but the transient gundam isn’t supposed to come until a day in which ill be visiting my aunt so im going to have to wait a while to finish the kitbash D: . but on the other hand…[Read more]
Alrighty! time for an update! I now have both the G-self and Try Burning ready for the kitbash but before that…POSES! with the G-self’s headless body and my Amazing Exia!…
Don’t paint until you have everything. When it comes to kit bashing, you’ll generally have to do some modding to parts to make them work, so it’s better to paint when you know everything will work together.
The most fun about kit bashing, is making everything look more fitting to you. if you like the stock look of the parts, that’s awesome, but…[Read more]
thank you! you’ve been such a helpful guy since I started posting, ill be sure to see what I can do and continue to make improvements along the way 😀
Finished the head, torso and arms of the MG OO Raiser. And the box still isn’t getting any lighter 😀
Wondering myself when I get to finish it. Hihihi
I like the anime but don’t fancy the suit designs…. After seeing the progress on your MG makes me wish I’ve ordered one when they where in stock! It looks amazing! Please keep us updated!
I’m stealing this idea! Haha I’m working on the MG 00 Qan[t] right now and modding leds all over. I was going to get the Destiny and do the same with that next but this makes me want to get the Fenice next!
haven’t really gotten a lot of physical progress done but im getting kits for my FIRST Gunpla kitbash, consisting of the G-self, Try Burning Gundam, and Transient Gundam. For…
Do be aware that the arms of the Transient and try burning are rather different. the Tranisent’s arms are a peg and socket type, and the build/try burning are a ball joint type(the ball is art of the shoulder piece of the try burning, and the peg is part of the body on the transient). You’ll have quite a bit of work ahead of you in modifying those…[Read more]
Actually, I have looked into what gunpla to use as well as their instruction manuals to give myself a good challenge but not an impossible challenge and ive figured that I can just take away the ball socket-to-peg parts to insert the try burnings arms where the pegs get connected, via the Try Burning’s shoulder ball joints. however I don’t kno…[Read more]
The ball sockets on the try burning are the same as those on the build burning, so you should be fine with the shoulders fitting the transients ball sockets. I have both the transient and build burning kits, so the big problem you’ll encounter is that you will lose part of the transient’s chest when doing this, as it connects to the ball socket,…[Read more]
ok, though the latter option seems a bit crazy as im just starting out on kitbashing so ill do the first option first and later once im more experienced with kitbashing I may do the second option. thank you for the tip! 😀
although i don’t have a PG yet, this kit’s presence and detail very much feels like one and i love it! work in slow progress since work has been very busy…[Read more]
Indeed it feels like a PG. It was my second kit, the first was a PG. At first I wasn’t that impressed with the Nu (I didn’t put the frame together like you did, but build it piece by piece) but when it all came together it was awesome! Now I tend to compare all MG’s to the Nu Ver.Ka…….
Hope you enjoy the rest of the build
thanks! i’ll be adding the under side of the feet, backhand covers, thrusters, verniers and other necessary armor panels that are “non-maintenance” and will be displaying it as the frame for a while since i’ll be working on the decals on the outer armors xD
I wish you good luck with those like a million or so decals. If you take your time, it’ll work out fine, I’m sure.
If I may give you a tip, if you don’t have a mark softer, I suggest getting some. It will come in handy for the water slide on the back skirt armor 😉
Hello there experts! Apologies if this has been asked before but how do you paint missile pods in High Grades, those that are molded together? I know it can be done by hand painting but I’d like that to be my last resort. I’m currently painting with spray cans.
Unfortunately hand painting is the way to go for this, unless you want to do a coat of the missile colour then mask each individual missile and paint the base colour over the rest. (or visa versa)
not sure how good reverse wash would work on this but you can give it a try. soak the cotton buds more than what you’d do for a proper reverse wash with the sinanju, for example. this way, the the paint kind of flows down to the base of the pods a little easier and reveal more of the missile pod heads.
It would be tedious but you can use you spray cans. But there still be masking to do and some hand painting. I don’t know if the missile bays and armor parts are separate and if that’s the case you want the inner part of the missile bay a different color then the armor parts. If that’s the case, some more masking must be applied.
Either way, I’d…[Read more]
Assuming you are only talking about that one piece without attached to anything
1) spray the whole piece the color for missiles heads
2) use thinner to thin down the missile base color
3) wet the missile base
4) pour (drop by drop) thinned base color on the base. make sure the piece is flat
5) let it dry
This ‘wash on steroids’ type of technique will be definitely useful on the pods for the Lightning BWS as it is a separate piece. However, it will be more difficult for those in the HG G-Self Assault Pack as it is one solid cavity.
Personally I let them dry for one hour before putting on a setting solution and let that dry for one to two hours before spraying on a top coat. In your case, if wanting to use a setting solution like “Mark Softer” please first try it on a runner, so it won’t mess up the gold plating.
There are however people who let them dry for 24 hours before…[Read more]