Do be aware that the arms of the Transient and try burning are rather different. the Tranisent’s arms are a peg and socket type, and the build/try burning are a ball joint type(the ball is art of the shoulder piece of the try burning, and the peg is part of the body on the transient). You’ll have quite a bit of work ahead of you in modifying those parts.
A good way to do things, is first pick out some kits you want to bash together, then search the internet for their instruction manuals and look up how the arms, legs, and waists go together on the kits. This will give you a good idea of what you’ll have to do in terms of work(heads don’t matter, as all hg’s pretty much use the exact same size of ball joint).
Actually, I have looked into what gunpla to use as well as their instruction manuals to give myself a good challenge but not an impossible challenge and ive figured that I can just take away the ball socket-to-peg parts to insert the try burnings arms where the pegs get connected, via the Try Burning’s shoulder ball joints. however I don’t know if there may be a difference in size between the Transient Gundam’s ball sockets and the Try Burning’s ball joints so that may be a problem that I may have to fix. anyways thank you for the advice :D! this is actually my first post here, to show the gunpla community this partial newbie’s projects and ideas, so yeah. ill be updating soon as I’ve got the G-Self, and the Try Burning Gundam on me and they are partially completed so that the parts im using will be ready for when I get the final part of the kitbash. SO EXCITED :D!!!
The ball sockets on the try burning are the same as those on the build burning, so you should be fine with the shoulders fitting the transients ball sockets. I have both the transient and build burning kits, so the big problem you’ll encounter is that you will lose part of the transient’s chest when doing this, as it connects to the ball socket, and contains that peg for mounting it’s arms. If that doesn’t bug you, awesome, if it does, you have a few options.
1. you can cut those pieces and glue them into place on to the transient’s chest, or you can cut off the peg and ball joint from the piece, to create a hollow opening, the remove the ball joint from the try burning’s shoulder parts(as close to the base as possible so you can retain more of the shaft), and use a combination of pieces cut from the left over runners, and hollow it out and run a brass rod through it(and do the same to the ball joint so that you can create a stronger bond when you glue them together), and the same to the shaft piece still connected to the shoulder. this will probably be your best, yet most taxing option of the two.
ok, though the latter option seems a bit crazy as im just starting out on kitbashing so ill do the first option first and later once im more experienced with kitbashing I may do the second option. thank you for the tip! 😀
np, that’s what is great about this place, lots of more experienced modelers around to help the newer guys.
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Do be aware that the arms of the Transient and try burning are rather different. the Tranisent’s arms are a peg and socket type, and the build/try burning are a ball joint type(the ball is art of the shoulder piece of the try burning, and the peg is part of the body on the transient). You’ll have quite a bit of work ahead of you in modifying those parts.
A good way to do things, is first pick out some kits you want to bash together, then search the internet for their instruction manuals and look up how the arms, legs, and waists go together on the kits. This will give you a good idea of what you’ll have to do in terms of work(heads don’t matter, as all hg’s pretty much use the exact same size of ball joint).
Actually, I have looked into what gunpla to use as well as their instruction manuals to give myself a good challenge but not an impossible challenge and ive figured that I can just take away the ball socket-to-peg parts to insert the try burnings arms where the pegs get connected, via the Try Burning’s shoulder ball joints. however I don’t know if there may be a difference in size between the Transient Gundam’s ball sockets and the Try Burning’s ball joints so that may be a problem that I may have to fix. anyways thank you for the advice :D! this is actually my first post here, to show the gunpla community this partial newbie’s projects and ideas, so yeah. ill be updating soon as I’ve got the G-Self, and the Try Burning Gundam on me and they are partially completed so that the parts im using will be ready for when I get the final part of the kitbash. SO EXCITED :D!!!
The ball sockets on the try burning are the same as those on the build burning, so you should be fine with the shoulders fitting the transients ball sockets. I have both the transient and build burning kits, so the big problem you’ll encounter is that you will lose part of the transient’s chest when doing this, as it connects to the ball socket, and contains that peg for mounting it’s arms. If that doesn’t bug you, awesome, if it does, you have a few options.
1. you can cut those pieces and glue them into place on to the transient’s chest, or you can cut off the peg and ball joint from the piece, to create a hollow opening, the remove the ball joint from the try burning’s shoulder parts(as close to the base as possible so you can retain more of the shaft), and use a combination of pieces cut from the left over runners, and hollow it out and run a brass rod through it(and do the same to the ball joint so that you can create a stronger bond when you glue them together), and the same to the shaft piece still connected to the shoulder. this will probably be your best, yet most taxing option of the two.
ok, though the latter option seems a bit crazy as im just starting out on kitbashing so ill do the first option first and later once im more experienced with kitbashing I may do the second option. thank you for the tip! 😀
np, that’s what is great about this place, lots of more experienced modelers around to help the newer guys.