Sorry if this has been asked before; I suck at using the search function on this site. 🙁
New to gunpla here, and I was wondering if the white on all the Gundam kits yellow with age? All the kits I’ve made are unpainted and I only started to worry about this after making my PG Unicorn and then ordering the Full Armor later; is there any chance…[Read more]
As far as I can recollect, this hasn’t been asked before and if it is, no worries 😉
The problem is, yellow is the dominant color in the color spectrum. The plasticisers in plastic will attract sun rays and collect the yellow rays, oddly enough…
Even indirect sunlight might discolor the plastic overtime. The only option is to use a clear coat.…[Read more]
Just a further query though. I see a lot of different types of coats on the shelves like lacquer, enamel and acrylic coats. If I paint my kit with acrylics, then is there any rule that I must use an acrylic coat and not a lacquer/enamel one?
Yeah, they are BANDAI kits. Thank you again; was beginning to think I…[Read more]
In case of your spray can, that means it’s a synthetic Acrylic paint. This means the binder/vehicle (what the paint is made of) is Acrylic based and the solvent (which keeps the paint liquid) is cellulose (lacquer) based.
In order to sell the product in some countries, they say it’s Acrylic to…[Read more]
It looks like it is behaving like the Vallejo primer, it then surely will harden in the course of a few days. That’s great to hear, no need for crazy or elaborate solutions which may cause more damage then good.
Should you need any more advice, please let us know 😉
Good luck and happy building!
So found something interesting and weird. So during the 1970’s -1980’s, the South Korean government created a ban of Japanese Media. As a result, there were a lot of “Innovative” cartoons made. One of them is called Black Space Knight. Do you guys recognize any familiar masked figure.
It depends what brand/type of primer you have. Some don’t need to be thinned.
If you got primer by Tamiya (just a wild guess) you need to thin it with cellulose thinner. Any kind will do. You can get the expensive one by Mr. Hobby (the bottle with the blue label), the even more expensive one by Mr Hobby which contains a retarder (blue label with…[Read more]
Just as a precaution, the flat base from Tamiya needs to be mixed with a paint or a clear gloss to get a flat finish. These need to be thinned with X20-A or Isopropanol Alcohol (rubbing alcohol >90%).
Haha, can’t wait to reach the episode, when you really watched the latest StarWars movie and ranting about it. I am at 180, can’t be that long anymore.
can I ask what can I do because I just finished top coating my sazabi ver ka and it has this foggy white marks what can I do to remove them? I’ve used a flat matt top coat.. thanks in advance.
If you have a hair dryer or a heat gun (lowest setting, you don’t want to melt the plastic) and heat up the effected areas. Don’t keep blowing on the same spot, but move in circulair motions.
The problem is, you sprayed during a humid day, all the moisture in the air settles on the model and mixes with the air born paint particles. The hot air…[Read more]
Not sure if I’m completely done with this kit or not, but pretty happy with what I’ve got done so far anyway. This is on old HG Serpent Custom from 1998. Here I’ve completely…
That was a serious Battle for sure. You definatly have to do something with the scars. If metal cooles down after beeing red glowing hot, it becomes some kind of a darker blueish grey. I would go for that and maybe keep some of the edges dark red glowing.
Check some lasercuttet industrial metalparts. Outside where the temp wasnt hot enough do melt the metal, it will change the color from the grey directly at the cutting edge to a yellowish brown a bit further away. Hehe depends on how much effort you want to put in it.
I am going through all the episodes atm. And are around episode 150, where the give aways took olace..(why have I found this place not earlier), but what really is funny, is the amount of response to those episodes, compared to times where nothing is for free.
But if you look at the clicks on the episodes. Thats what counts. Mostly People watching the show and thats it. Not everybody is that talkactive and the most just want to see stuff thats comming out, stuff they can’t afford, and how it builds. If they went to hlj right after it.. Jobs done! And if I just wanted to know some Details about a kit, I…[Read more]
You are absolutely right. Gunpla TV is a big add, and a wonderful one none the less. It’s just a shame people only comment for a free bee. That’s great, if one doesn’t have the funds to buy something. Me, I am a very lucky one that doesn’t need Sid’s hand me downs. It’s just a shame that because of the 500+ comments, the ones that matter, like…[Read more]
Most do a “dry build” before painting. This is done to see where the parts may rub, so you can see where to take some plastic away, or identifying troublesome sections of the kit. So, that’s already done for you. The downside IMO is that I’m a bit of perfectionist when it comes to nubs and due to time constraint, I guess, Syd isn’t too neat with…[Read more]
Its the magic of buildig something out of lots of small parts, seeing how it takes shape, while you work your way through the process, which is gone. Even if it is a lot of work cleaning all the parts, it is the most vital part of modelbuilding for me. An these have lost already their virginity. I could also buy actionfigures and paint them. Hehe…[Read more]