Started this project last month haven’t have time to finish due to no cash and busy schedule I do plan on finishing it up and painting all the detail before I start school next year. View
I need to get a better camera to do the full photo shoot of the Z Tank.
After all that painting the tank some parts became rather brittle (managed to break the left shoulder guard peg and the back pack mount.
Ok. Zaku tanks needs just a flat coat to finish it (hopefully). Here is some sneak preview of one of the few decals on the kit (the kit uses 7….).
From left:
Just after applying decals (well few hours after that). The decals look unnatural.
Next is “destroying” the decal to blend better with the rest of the shield.
Last is picture after next…[Read more]
I tried to do what i was using on the 3rd party decals from Samuel which was using the wooden tooth picks sharp end to gently scrap the decals portions of.
Well with those Bandai decals it was a bit harder to do it but with a bit more energy i managed to scratch the parts i wanted to be off.
Also i did a massive screw up on one decal. Used yours…[Read more]
weird reaction. there must be sodium or another ion in the decalfix that formed an acetate salt. using more vinegar was the best thing to dissolve it. Thanks for the tip on the decal damage and keep up the top notch work
Well im done with the unicorn for a little bit. im trying to decide on what to do with the V fin and ive been doing a little experimenting with sharpie but i still havent…
very nice. the clear parts seam to have a glittery effect in them. is it really like that or it only seems that way on your photos? good job on managing nubs, cant find a single nubmark on anyone of your photos. 🙂
Thanks for the kind words. There really is glitter embedded in the clear (white) runners in this kit. The nub marks on those i cleaned up with tooth paste and a cotton swab. The inner frame and the blue (feet) are done in a gloss injection style plastic so those gate marks are impossible to remove. The placement of some of the decals will hide…[Read more]
Go with waterslides. Just checked your vinegar method on waterslides from samuel (crest for X1) it worked great (used about 40-50% diluted vinegar).
Just keep in mind that most of 3rd party waterslides arent precut so you need to trim them a bit before you apply them.
Well since there are no decals for the chassis of the tank (at least for the version im doing). I tried doing the weathering of it. I think it still needs some improvements….
The decals look like they’re cut pretty close to the graphic which often hints towards waterslides. If you try bending the decal sheet you can see if the decals peel off a bit or not to see if it’s peel-off or waterslide.
Yes it requires glue. I had to use tape to hold some pieces when i was deciding on how to modify them for easier painting. Also i managed to glue in the left manipulator wrist while i was doing the forearm.
There were also some problems with some parts not fitting correctly. In my case that was the head. Had to fill some seams on the bottom of…[Read more]
Well. End of work till monday. Run out of clear coat while doing x-1 (and it led to some disaster) so ill get it next week and fix it. Back to Zaku Tank. Had some trouble with…
Well since somehow i managed to have a somehow free weekend i decided to work more on the Zaku Tank. Earlier this week i did the clear coat and the hair spray treatment (but…
Well after a couple weeks of building and painting its done the PG wing zero I would have finished it a couple days ago but I was waiting on the waterslides from samuel decal ,they worked really well
The chest is done and this kit seems to building quite nicely. I feel that it is screaming for a LED light job and based on what i have seen inside the chest it looks very workable.
I was afraid that the clear version armor would look a bit boring compared to the normal white but I’m happy to be proven wrong.
Is the inner frame plain grey or is it different for this version?
I was also happy to that the clear parts look good on the kit. It looks like the frame on this kit (or a good chuck of it at least) is done in a gloss injection style. Very similar to the RG trans-am exia that I build a few months back
The little woman bought me the MG MS-14s Gelgoog for my 35th. so far the frame is together.. i might leave it this way.. such a nice frame, better looking than the Zaku…
Ps, I only paint the inner frames. No detailing. On all heavy industrial equipment all the components are sprayed in one color, this only to prevent rust. Pistons and e.g. drive belt of course not. So I follow that trend, as a giant robot is a huge piece of military equipment. But that is just my opinion…
i like to do some detailing on the frames but it really depends on the kit for me. my next big build will be rather extensive with the level of inner frame detailing but its still in the planning stages at this point. I agree with teetee about “undercoating” of industrial machinery so i will be going with one or two flat grey colors for the frame…[Read more]
id really like to see how you work pink into the nu-gundam. please keep us updated on that.
thanks for telling me how you go about it. i was thinking of just detailing it without any kind of finish coat.
Very nice frame! I have my gelgoog on the way! I like to add nice little details to give the kit more life! i dont paint the frame tho but i do detail pistons, ankles, elbows and thrusters! The gelgoog has a lot of thrusters and I just keep dreaming about what i’ll be doing with them.
Its true to a degree. The moment when they are out of the factory and they are serviced by mechanics the one color goes away due to various reasons. The chances of the spare part having the exact same color are slim (more than one factory building the suit is one example), also sometimes parts of different suits are used for repairs. Not to…[Read more]