UPDATE: I picked up some Tamya putty to fill seem lines and repair the areas that had gouged out plastic. Plus I also picked up a couple of polystyrene sheets because I intend to create armor that actually fills in the hollow skirt armor. Plus, I need to create interiors for the knee armor because of all the damage. I don’t what all that […] View
I got a private message from a person. The person was named monica and said something like “I saw your profile and I’m interested in you” blah blah blah. It was weird ahah
Hello there fellow Gunpla-er!
Question #1: Gloss coat, panel line, optional gloss coat to protect your panel lines, decals, and then finally your top coat (flat, gloss, or semi gloss).
Question #2: I would say to top coat parts individually like you were painting. Top coating a completed kit without separating parts can leave area’s without top…[Read more]
@corn-wizard Thanks a lot. Scratch building is definitely something new to me. Each skirt armor is three thin pieces cemented together. It’s a little rough hear and there, but I should keep improving. Thanks for the kind words. Happy building!
Hey fellow Gunpla-ers. So I’ve made progress on my retribution kit! I scratch built underskirt detail with PlaPlate (first time scratch building and using PlaPlate in…
@corn-wizard Thanks a lot. Scratch building is definitely something new to me. Each skirt armor is three thin pieces cemented together. It’s a little rough hear and there, but I should keep improving. Thanks for the kind words. Happy building!
@saint-ism This is soooo nice! I only have the NG Duel and actually really like it, but when I saw the MG Duel I knew that was a kit I have to get. I like the kit better than the Strike (go figure). Great job man.
@thebanshee13 Dude you are on a Gunpla building frenzy! Seems like you’re blasting out kits. The Zeta is looking good so far. I can’t wait to see the finished product. Happy building!
Man that’s oldschool! I can only imagine the troubles you had because of the quality of kits back them. When you compare that RX-78 to today’s 3.0, Gunpla have really come a long way. Nice job!
@teetee580 You’re right. In the past I’ve always gone too heavy with paint and primer because I always wanted to get the parts painted in one spray session. This always led to thick layers. Now that I am older and understand the importance of thin layers, I will hopefully do a couple of layers to get the best paint results. Good advice. happy building!
@GN HOLY MOLY that’s nice! I kind of wish you removed the seam lines but that’s personal preference. Outstanding job man. This is the first Neo Zeong I’ve seen painted. What a beastly kit. Happy building!
@teetee580 What you’re saying makes sense. I just have to be mindful of the soap and make sure to thoroughly rinse the part and dry. Thanks mate. Happy building!
@iamMajesty That’s a very good question. Anything with lemon in it is deemed too aggressive. If your dish soap doesn’t include some lemon extract, you should be fine.
Some manufactures advertise with soap which is mild to your hands. This also a mild soap, EXCEPT when, again, includes lemon extract or something like aloe vera, or some other kind…[Read more]
@teetee580 Oh wow that’s really important! I was thinking it was just a marketing scheme ahah. I know what you mean though. A long time ago, I primed an old HG 1/144 Justice Gundam and I saw some of the details disappearing. I definitely intend to try out panel washing so fine surface primer it is. Thanks for the clarification as always. Happy building :D!
You’re welcome. One other thing though, even if you use the fine surface primer, it’s also the number of coats of paint can give the same problem. For primer, one or two thin coats will work perfectly. As for paint, two or three coats at the most. This because if you choose to do panel lines, you should also apply a clear gloss coat for protecting…[Read more]
@teetee580 You’re right. In the past I’ve always gone too heavy with paint and primer because I always wanted to get the parts painted in one spray session. This always led to thick layers. Now that I am older and understand the importance of thin layers, I will hopefully do a couple of layers to get the best paint results. Good advice. happy building!
@teetee580 Thanks for the response! I’ve only seen the gold paint with clear yellow over it on videos so seeing it in person would probably look different. I’ll have to try both out and see which one I like. I’ll take a look at your Nu Ver Ka. Thanks man. Happy building!
@iamMajesty Yes, you are right, the best way in seeing what you like best is making some samples. Of course it’s all about personal taste. Go with the one you like best and the model will look the best it can be.
And you’re welcome. Happy building
Hey there fellow Gunpla-ers. I was on Tamiyas website looking at paints, and I saw that they had a surface primer and fine surface primer. What’s the difference between both?
The difference between the two is that the “fine surface primer” has far smaller pigment in it. This results in better upholding the panel lines and details on the surface. The normal primer will somewhat obscure them. If you’d choose to do panel lines after painting I recommend using the “fine surface primer”. The panel lines stay deeper which…[Read more]
@teetee580 Oh wow that’s really important! I was thinking it was just a marketing scheme ahah. I know what you mean though. A long time ago, I primed an old HG 1/144 Justice Gundam and I saw some of the details disappearing. I definitely intend to try out panel washing so fine surface primer it is. Thanks for the clarification as always. Happy building :D!
You’re welcome. One other thing though, even if you use the fine surface primer, it’s also the number of coats of paint can give the same problem. For primer, one or two thin coats will work perfectly. As for paint, two or three coats at the most. This because if you choose to do panel lines, you should also apply a clear gloss coat for protecting…[Read more]
@teetee580 You’re right. In the past I’ve always gone too heavy with paint and primer because I always wanted to get the parts painted in one spray session. This always led to thick layers. Now that I am older and understand the importance of thin layers, I will hopefully do a couple of layers to get the best paint results. Good advice. happy building!
@teetee580 Am I still able to wash the parts after I am done sanding putty and seams lines away? I ask because I want my parts to be clean from dust and other particles before I get to priming and painting.
@iamMajesty, Of course you can wash them after sanding, putty and seam line removal. Because of the putty, I would only soak them in lukewarm water with a really mild soap. Even rinsing of with clear cold water should get rid of dust on the pieces. Just make sure you dry them off with a clean and soft towel. Any traces of dried water can leave…[Read more]
@iamMajesty That’s a very good question. Anything with lemon in it is deemed too aggressive. If your dish soap doesn’t include some lemon extract, you should be fine.
Some manufactures advertise with soap which is mild to your hands. This also a mild soap, EXCEPT when, again, includes lemon extract or something like aloe vera, or some other kind…[Read more]