Hi G MMMMMMM what to do. As with the Nu I wanted to keep that as close as possible to the colour of the runners and that worked out ok I think?
So as they say if it a’nt broke don’t fix it! Stick to the same formula and it should be ok (I hope) I’ll do a vid of the colour selection for the kit in the next few days.
Thanks for the comments 🙂
I’ll give it another bash to see lads. Looking at the Milliput pieces I can see the rough surface that I scored into it so maybe will rough it up a bit more and clean it again. I have a feeling this one may pop out of place on me too: http://goo.gl/tUFx7z If I can’t get it to work maybe I’ll start reinforcing with pla plate instead. Cheers lads.
The parts got a good wash to remove any of the mold release residue that may have been on them. I popped the milliput out this morning since it wasn’t holding. Should I have used something on the surface before hand, plastic cement or something?
I quite often get a knife and cross hatch score Marks into the surface of pieces I putty onto. This gives something extra for it to bind onto, and less chance of shearing from the surface.
As mpb457 says the piece needs to be clean, even greasy fingerprints will Will create a binding barrier, so maybe was the parts again just before using the…[Read more]
I’ll give it another bash to see lads. Looking at the Milliput pieces I can see the rough surface that I scored into it so maybe will rough it up a bit more and clean it again. I have a feeling this one may pop out of place on me too: http://goo.gl/tUFx7z If I can’t get it to work maybe I’ll start reinforcing with pla plate instead. Cheers lads.
Started to work with Milliput putty for the first time on some Gundam pieces. Finding out that after letting it sit for several hours since earlier it doesn’t seem to be adhering to the plastic. Could almost pop it out like a mold. I did try roughing up the surface pretty good before adding the putty with the idea of providing some gripping area,…[Read more]
The parts got a good wash to remove any of the mold release residue that may have been on them. I popped the milliput out this morning since it wasn’t holding. Should I have used something on the surface before hand, plastic cement or something?
I quite often get a knife and cross hatch score Marks into the surface of pieces I putty onto. This gives something extra for it to bind onto, and less chance of shearing from the surface.
As mpb457 says the piece needs to be clean, even greasy fingerprints will Will create a binding barrier, so maybe was the parts again just before using the…[Read more]
I’ll give it another bash to see lads. Looking at the Milliput pieces I can see the rough surface that I scored into it so maybe will rough it up a bit more and clean it again. I have a feeling this one may pop out of place on me too: http://goo.gl/tUFx7z If I can’t get it to work maybe I’ll start reinforcing with pla plate instead. Cheers lads.
As said, comes down to a matter of preference. A gray line on the white part gives less of a contrast from the white than the black line. Nice subtle effect in my opinion.
FedEx seems to only appear for the pricier shipping options for me to the UK/Ireland… maybe it’s just me?
vCJD also suggested this as an option of using the ball portion and inserting the new hand ball joint into the larger one. The issue with it is the kits hand is that rubber hand and not a solid. Here’s the comparison http://goo.gl/Gs52Ds
I’m playing around with some poly joints can could possible end up wedging those in and securing them with…[Read more]
I have a query for you guys. I’ve started modding very beginner, and I’ve a set of Hobby Base 1/144 hands I’d like to use. Problem is the ball joint is too small for the square hole, to pop in and out. I know I have a few options available between pla plate, putty to fill the gap, ball joint cap held in with plate or putty… but what would you…[Read more]
You could also cut the ball and pin from the kit hand you are replacing, and transplant it to the aftermarket hand. Cut the kit pin out with a portion of the hand, which basically gives you a longer pin, trim and sand to match the round pin section, then drill and glue the pin into the aftermarket hand. Does that make sense? I always do this…[Read more]
vCJD also suggested this as an option of using the ball portion and inserting the new hand ball joint into the larger one. The issue with it is the kits hand is that rubber hand and not a solid. Here’s the comparison http://goo.gl/Gs52Ds
I’m playing around with some poly joints can could possible end up wedging those in and securing them with…[Read more]
I’ve skimmed through mandrake before but never bought anything from there. Right enough some of the deals on there are pretty top notch by the look of it!
It was very hard to resist… and I didn’t 🙂 The biggest issue with the HLJ sale was knowing when to stop lol @richigobankai really!? What sort of items were you looking for?
Shipping was reasonable for the size of it all. I think when I was messing around with the private warehouse shipping the pla plates seemed to increase the cost of shipping the most!
because of the size of box going to contain the pla-plate. Try to order just the pla-plate, and you will only able to check out with EMS or DHL, there is no SAL.
Not a massive kit bash just some improvements to a few model kits, namely an Aoshima 1/24 scale Megazone 23 Garland I want to improve. Love the accessibility to mod the likes of Gunpla, so got a bit excited when I learned about the massive range of joints and option parts available. 😀 Makes it easier to learn when you have everything you need…[Read more]
Hi G MMMMMMM what to do. As with the Nu I wanted to keep that as close as possible to the colour of the runners and that worked out ok I think?
So as they say if it a’nt broke don’t fix it! Stick to the same formula and it should be ok (I hope) I’ll do a vid of the colour selection for the kit in the next few days.
Thanks for the comments 🙂