Fox williamson

sadly no. thier like $18 a can locally. and given i hate working with lacquers to start with, just not worth it. i tend to stick with enamels and acrylic as cleanup and chemicals just arn’t as toxic

tbh, the Only way to prevent silvering is to apply a gloss coat, decal then flat/satin coat over.

decals of anytype work best on a perfectly smooth surface, where flat and satins to get thier look are actually microscopic pittied coats, hense not flat.

so what you need to do is 1 gloss, apply decals then Flat/satin coat parts. Silvering is when…[Read more]

I do it all the time and never had a problem tbh.

mostly it’s enamel based ones i decant, and the trick is to let it degass fully before using i find.

ouch, and i kavetched when customs dinged me for 22 bucks

honestly. I hope they don’t do the led feature, it’s nice, but having such a huge hole is always a put off to me, but i’m prolly minority.

While i’ve never done models, I have judged other things and yeah, to be fair you have to judge on something quantifiable. Else it’s next to impossible.

Obviously given the style of this comp I’d bet will boil down to visual & technical merit

well my routine generally is dependent on the outcome. like the pg wing, not gotten around to finishing it, tend to putter on him at a nice slow relaxed pace inbetween pay kits.

but last serious MG i did for myself, went from box to full paint to bandai imgs standards in about a week.

personally, atm i just want to finish the current kit i’m on…[Read more]

Well I’ve knocked off MG grades in under a week avg, 4-5. granted I also built a PG wing in 13 hrs, so maybe I am, I’ve gotten to used to shaving my nubs that aside from a touch of sanding & maybe but of putty, prep don’t take long and I’ve sorta been using the same Primer for years

Sadly it will be. as that vendor selling that brand on El-cheapo brush is based in california. but they are based in california US, and to date have gone HLJ level of customer service. When i had a part break 1 week after purchase, theyrushed me said part without question

It’s not bad and works in a pinch, it is pretty durable & yes it works with Tamiya. Next time i suggest just commenting on your own question. otherwise you’ll get a disconnect in your posts

first off, Offial rules –> http://www.hlj.com/Playing-With-Plamo-Modeling-Competition-2013#generalrules

2nd. now I’m Not @Ryan or @Syd, but i do believe thier intention was to prohibit something build and done before to discourage people from just using something they already had built, but to encourage everyone to start at the same rough time…[Read more]

@kuroneko ya time management is always key.

for me i’ve yet to start my entry (backloged on kits) but i average 2 weeks for a 1/100 done up to match bandais photo examples

okay first get yourself a .3micro gravity airbrush set up, then get alcladII silver and a good clear yellow like tamiya.

if you mist on about 6 layers of alclad, polish it then 2 coats tamiya clear yellow, you’ll match the paint. specially after sealing with future

I believe @Ryan commented on this and thier working on it but it’s being elusive as to what’s causing this glitch

okay, first off, congrats on going airbrush dude. it’s going to be a long long road, be warned.

1st. go slow and light, it’s better to have to add more, then have to remove paint.
2. make sure to get a cleaning kit and airbrush cleaner, it will keep it working. nothing sucks more then wanting to get stuff done and instead have to fight to get…[Read more]

actually having build the unicorn, doing what he’s planning shouldn’t really take more then a month really, well, depends on what gimmiks he’s planning.

but imho a month to do whats in those shots (which are the 144) should only take a month, so he’s fine on time

OH!, btw MIST the paint on, better to light a coat then too heavy. so make sure to do steady even passes from one side to another never stopping/staring on the parts. you’ll get a much nicer finish this way

np, afterall, the point of communities is more then just ego stroking but mutual suppost

thats why i didn’t bother mentioning it originally. did one once and yes most of the non chrome was not under-gated, so short of decanting your rattles to do touch ups after.

and i always future my chromes before i even touch em. protects the surface and lets me even try thinks like color tinting without risking the finish.

http://www.google.com/url?q=http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html&sa=U&ei=Qgw7UrLiJMvE4AOStYCgBQ&ved=0CBcQFjAF&sig2=4jIWR4Y9dmTcJ_pxLbU5zQ&usg=AFQjCNGVvjTCLd6ncsGx8wgE0bOY0P184g

that link should have what it’s called in your region