I have a 1/144 HG Graham’s Custom Union flag. One problem I’ve been having though is that the hip joint connecting each leg is loose. It’s a ball and socket joint, but not polycap,, just regular polystyrene. So there isn’t enough friction to keep it in place. The arms are the same, but I think they’re light enough that the friction…[Read more]
The joint is actually ABS and styrene, but, yeah…
The thing about a joint like this is that tightening it can be dangerous. There’s a chance that the increased stress on the part could crack it, which will make the whole situation worse.
If you still want to try it, you can apply a thin layer of super glue to the ball joint, let it cure, and…[Read more]
You could always take a little sticky tack and put it in the socket then when the connection is made it will spread and cause that friction you are looking for but still be movable. Best thing with that is if it messes up you can disconnect, take some tweezers, pull the sticky tack out and try again.
hello guys i have another question who heres been some of the new scaled startrek models what scale should i buy if i want something close to a foot in scale or little over.
Depends which ship you’re building. The original Enterprise is about 1000 feet long, so in 1/1000 scale it’s a little under a foot long. The ship from the 2009 film is larger (sometimes… it’s complicated) but the 1:500 kit of it is nevertheless around 2 feet long.
Is any one able to help me, I want to paint the inner frame of my nu ver ka but wanted to know is it best to prime the frame first or to just paint it?
If you are going from a darker frame to a lighter one, you may want to use a white primer underneath or it may take extra coats of paint. I have done it both ways and without the primer if you go to a lighter color you can get a cool shadowing look to it. I always cut off just a side to the runner (not the actual parts) and test how things will look
primer is generally a good idea. Primer isn’t just a coat of paint to cover the original color, it actually is formulated to stick better and to allow the paints you apply after to stick to it. That said every layer of paint of primer or topcoat will add a slight thickness to a part and that can cause problems where pieces stick tightly…[Read more]
No primer should be used. And as few paint layers as you can. One would be ideal. Or else you’re gonna have huge problems putting the armor on because of the layers. Risking breaking or not connecting at the seams. If you’re doing something crazy, like painting darker frame into, say, white, you’re not gonna have that plain white you may have…[Read more]
hi guys i am looking into a airbrush for my hobbys for models and custom making .i hate how using spraycans can somtimes ruin detail work so any tips on what i should be looking for and my hurt to my wallet.
Probably around $60-$80 for the airbrush itself, maybe around $100 or more for a compressor. Then there’s random stuff like the hose to connect the two, a pressure regulator (if the compressor doesn’t come with one), respirator and spray booth if you’re spraying inside, etc…
There are propellant cans you can use instead of a compressor, but I…[Read more]
It’s a costly investment when you look at it from what you have to pay in one go. But it’s going to save you a lot money on long runs. And give you that custom look you want with endless paint mixtures for that badass oomph Gunpla deserves. Just be careful what kind of paint diluent you buy. Happy painting. 🙂
Just didn’t want to use something that would hurt other layers of paint. And yea I’m new to how these newer models are cause I’ve not built a model thats not been 15 years old . Also this is the first one I’ve ever painted and ill be needing some help. Want to c what I’m working on check out my page thank u
well painters tapeis not ment to riun it also did u do a light sealer at it all..its just if u dont want to use sealer u may need to let it set for 24hrs before the tape to make sure it dosent ruin the first layer.also for a better tip its a snap kit like the airmaster .. i advice taking it appart so the color more smooth when speerated it will…[Read more]
I’ve learned so many things working on this kit. Not to mention finding hlj who showed me there was more then just hg in the world i really didn’t know bout pg rg mg till this year sad for sure.
pg and mg have been around scine the 1990ish i think rg are the newest scale that has come out and i like it detail of an mg in a small cheaper kit. its great u can private message me if u want to talk more.
I have to agree! Done some research on various sites and everyone seems to recommend Tamiya tapes. So I bought one. Been using it for masking for nearly a year, a lot better results than the regular painting masking tape.
You may consider using rubber mask for larger areas – Humbrol and Mr.Hobby do one. Use your tape to outline the area and fill in with the liquid mask, saves tape too.
I love the fact that there are people out there who are helping us answer these questions 🙂 … silly question, i don’t read Japanese, how would you distinguish the dry transfer stickers vs. water slide decals , i have the sinanju stein and v gundam ver ka and i am not sure what type of decals are included.
First off, stickers are not the same as dry transfers. 🙂 Dry transfers are way better, but unforgiving if you make a mistake…
Dry transfers come on a transparent plastic sheet, bundled with a matching-size sheet of paper to protect the markings. They’re sometimes called “rub-on” markings because that’s how they work.
Sticker sheets will have…[Read more]
waterslides seem to be considered the best however they’re also probably the hardest to work with.
Stickers are easy just peel and stick but the problem is the edge they make which is hard to hide.
Dry transfers are delicate, you’ll need to cut them from their sheet, align them then rub the back till the whole thing sticks and if you miss a spot…[Read more]
To add, I used to be scared of waterslides. I was lucky to have a few years younger girlfriend that’s been into F1 model kits and these are waterslide heavy! So I went with the simple solution, if she can do it, so can I. I was shy at first but (like with all other things) found out that there’s nothing to it. It’s much, much easier than dry…[Read more]
Thanks you guys for the support…. I tried both dry transfer decals and the stickers very straightforward… The only issue I am finding with water slide decals is that everyone is using something called Mr. mark Setter and I don’t have access to that where I am and. Can’t get it online 🙁
Hi guys, can I confirm something with you? When doing a camo scheme with blu-tac do I NEED to clear coat between layers? I ask because i’m going throught A LOT of clear paint. Thanks.
Nope. No need for a clear coat between painting different colors. Just make sure to give each color coat plenty of time to cure before you start masking for the next layer – you don’t want paint to come up with the masking.
The joint is actually ABS and styrene, but, yeah…
The thing about a joint like this is that tightening it can be dangerous. There’s a chance that the increased stress on the part could crack it, which will make the whole situation worse.
If you still want to try it, you can apply a thin layer of super glue to the ball joint, let it cure, and…[Read more]
You could always take a little sticky tack and put it in the socket then when the connection is made it will spread and cause that friction you are looking for but still be movable. Best thing with that is if it messes up you can disconnect, take some tweezers, pull the sticky tack out and try again.