Lighting. This is driving me up the wall. I use just a single light desk lamp. The more I look into this the more i see about using multiple light and Hot light… So what is the best was to light up your work station?
don’t know if there is an ideal. If the room is already well lit I’d think that a really good and bright light would be good enough as long as it’s bright enough that you can make out whatever issues with the paint you may have. One thing to keep in mind though is if you can’t see a problem while up close with a good light then someone standing…[Read more]
natural light really is wonderful, till night comes lol. anyways yeah if you can do it by natural light that should be great for spotting errors and also when you use a mica/pearl paint it’s pretty dazzling in the sunlight.
hey guys i am looking for a certain tone of black or gray that is dark enuogh for my kits but it dosent hide the detail and panel lins…any recomandationc ..
tamiya nato black is ok. its not quite black, more a dark green, i’ve used it on inner frames before. looks good and works with a bit of dry brushing after as well.
I use the Krylon Camouflage Ultra Flat Olive color, although it looks more of a dark gray. If you want to private message me your email address Johann I got a couple pictures I can send you. Now if you are looking for something for like an air brush. I use Mr. Color. There are 3 grays in particular depending on the color of the original runner.…[Read more]
cool, I emailed you the couple photos johann. Now as far as the Mr. Color goes, right now I mainly use it to cover up after I shave nub marks, but I hand brush for that. Haven’t tried them in my airbrush yet.
I’d recommend custom mixing your paint if you really want something so specific. Just get some white and black paint and mix till you get the shade you want. This way it will actually be grey and not a dark blue or green.
also I’d like to point out that the frame color that Bandai uses on almost all their kits is 90% neutral grey + 10% black,…[Read more]
Well the name is Bad Robot, it is a movie production company. What that is, is a limited edition Mascot Maquette. They only made 1000 and each of them was numbered. It has been out since 2011, so your best bet would be check ebay and other auction sites.
I recently finished mounting a Bandai PG MS-06F Zaku II 30th Anniversary Extra Finish Version.
The LED unit is crazy. Shame on Bandai for this crazy circuit with lot of metallic parts that do not stick and stay fixed. The whole mechanism is very cumbersome, and the 3 screws do not fix the front part, where the switch is located, so…[Read more]
Can’t say I’ve ever had problems with mine… If I ever did, then I guess I would replace all those spring contacts and stuff, just wire in a self-contained switch.
Hey guys, I am still fairly new to building kits and I am in the process of putting a flat top coat on my HG Buster. How long would you suggest for the top coat to dry before putting the kit back together? I waited 24 hours on my 1/100 Freedom but when I checked the Buster after about 2 hours it looked about the same as the Freedom did after 24 hours.
oh ..5 to 10 that stuff drys quick.it drys just as fast or quicker then primer it will just be a litte stick for a little onger at that time u cna check by tapp a side of each part on the smooths side of ur hand to see if it at all sticky*not sticky as in the paint comes off like a sticker sticky* if so put it near a fan to help it futre dry and…[Read more]
to add to that a bit, most paints for models have a 24 hour cure time. They’ll be dry to the touch in a couple of hours and I’d even say it should be safe to assemble after maybe 2-3 hours usually, but if you’re going to mask something for like another layer of paint, the masking may pull off the paint since it’s not fully cured.