I saw an ad for the Frame Arms 1/100 YSX-24RD/NE Xelphycarl/NE and fell in love with the colors of it and thought about getting one. Does anyone know how easy they are to build compared to a MG Gundam kit? Like I know it needs glue and paint, but are they necessary? Is it something an average builder can do?
I’ve seen them in the stores but haven’t tried building one yet. From what I understand they have a prebuilt standard frame (as in all the kits have the exact same frame) and the armor comes on runners. all in all I’d have to say they’re probably easier to build than any RG or MG, but more complicated than any HG or non grade.
Hey All, Planning to paint a kit as part of a group build the HG Gerbera Tetra, i only have access to Revell Acrylic paints and no airbrush (ie. There are still countries like that these days), my question is after i do the painting i find that the paint covers most of the lines that needs to be panel lines, how can i go about this, painted kits…[Read more]
1. it’s a PIA.
2. reason it’s a pia is you basically have to thin your paint out, and then brush it on in super thin layers. while won’t be perfect, will make it easier if you avoind going over panel lines
Hey Fox, i usually thin the paint depending on how thick or thin the paint is already is out of the can, i cam using Water Based Acrylics from a company called Revell (They manufacture military style hobby kits out of Germany). and i usually go over the kit in multiple layers (maximum i have done so far is 3), do you think i could manually make…[Read more]
If you only can paint by hand because of your situation, then I think the best way to avoid obscuring panel lines is to paint using only dry brushing, it’ll ofcourse be a very slow and tedious process to paint a whole kit that way but drybrushing is very good for 2 things or rather avoiding two things, not leaving brush strokes and not obstructing detail.
Hello everybody, I got my MG Turn A gundam from amazon, didn’t know about HLJ at the time, but building it was fun till I put everything together and started noticing cracks all over the armor then it started falling apart, I had to glue 50% of the outer armor back on, and I noticed its very flimsy, it’s waist has no support and leans, then when I…[Read more]
took a quick look at your pics didn’t notice the cracks and everything looks fine, it’s unfortunate that you’re having problems like that. I don’t have the kit myself but can’t really imagine what the issue might be unless you either used too much pressure or somehow weakened your plastic. anyways good job keeping it together despite the…[Read more]
OR you got really unlucky & got an knock off. ran cross one for Turn A long ago, in person was very flimsy (vendor had it unwrapped & open box). he admitted it was a KO, even though all the bandai markers were there.
Hope that’s not the case, but if it is then those knock offs sure are getting better. I had one long ago I still remember building it and being very disappointed, the colors were wrong, and it was supposed to be wing zero custom but many of the parts were obviously the non custom version parts, then checking the box to realize it was from…[Read more]
that’s what i’m doing with the one my wife got me, If not for the logo I prolly wouldn’t of known it wasn’t legit, course it not built yet so. but I’m useing it for a major custom design so 🙂
I covered up most of the cracks, the cockpit is broken and the pics show that, i used a panel wash afterwards and i think thats what cracked armor after i built it, but when i put it together the arm and leg armor cracked in different places, i love the turn a and im sad i got a bad kit, i will never buy from anywhere but hlj now
Yeah watching gunpla TV, the boss Scott mentioned that while building the tallgeese he used an enamel thinner to do the panel wash, and if you let the enamel thinner stay on the plastic parts too long it will make the plastic brittle and crack. Sorry about your kit mate. I know what it feels like to have your kit break down on you. My first master…[Read more]
Not sure what kind of paint it is, some sites list it as lacquers while others do not. Now according to Tamiya it says about this paint “These spray paints were developed especially for decorating transparent polycarbonate bodies used in R/C car modeling. Each can contains 100ml of paint, which is the appropriate amount for finishing the model.…[Read more]
I did. I used PS-38 over Plate Mail Metal coloured primer from ‘The Army Painter’ on my Blue Destiny Unit One without problem. I’m more curious about other people’s experiences using Tamiya clear polycarbonate spray paint on their model kits.
I have never used Tamiya’s clear spray. I normally stick with Testors and never had a problem. Id be just as interested in seeing what others have experienced. Always can shoot for a better paint job lol
The PS spray cans are mainly used for the RC cars/boats type of plastic. The TS spray line are made for model plastics. Well thats what i’ve been told anyway. I’ve used the PS spray on my gundam models and they turned out fine, tho i found it to be a bit thicker than the TS spray.
When you spray your kits does the paint comes out ( I don’t know how to say it) even or in bits and pieces, kinda spodgey? I think I made that word up lol.
🙂 i think i understand. if its coming out in bits and pieces and spodgey, then it could be a couple of reasons –
1. the can hasn’t been shaken enough (shake for at least a minute)
2. the spray can is too old (the paint is off)
3. weather conditions (very humid or very cold)
Also try to spray at a good distance from the plastic, at least 20 to…[Read more]
When I spray paint with it not all the area sprayed is painted, only sections and I have to build up the colour slowly. I got the paint very cheap, perhaps it is off.
When you used it what type of paint did you put it over, acrylic, lacquer, enamel etc?
i usually use an acrylic primer, then after that most other applicants (enamel etc) work fine for me, tho i do tend to use only acrylics.
it does sound like the paint is off 🙁
reasonably sure they are lacquers though not 100%. Anyways I have used a couple of the Tamiya PS line, I wasn’t paying attention when I was buying and they were the right color, anyways I’ve used them with no issues and in my case it wasn’t a top coat but rather the actual colored paint.
Really there shouldn’t be an issue despite the warning,…[Read more]
The cans were brand new, still in the shrink wrap. I think the shop was getting rid of them to make room. When I get someone money I’ll buy some cheap HGUC’s from HLJ and try them out. Hopefully using them over enamel will work.
Thanks Steven.
I know modelers have gotten parts made from printing services and the like… Sure, why not? If you’ve got the money for it, and the ability to design the parts you need…
I watched the labor movie, I didn’t get the first time round so I decided to watch the series before watching the movie again. I haven’t seen Kamen Rider is it good.
hlj does ship certain paints mainly the Vallejo line. Those are able to be shipped internationally. That said I’ve never tried them.
For a first time painter I’d recommend just using Tamiya spray paints it’s the easiest route, but be careful of overspray where the paint starts dripping and pooling. From there I’d eventually move to an airbrush…[Read more]
no prob. Tim’s advise is good btw using the enamels for the details. In theory a spary paint is a laquer base, and you can use enamel paints over that and even clean it up with an enamel thinner without harming the laquer (you wanna be careful trying that, I’ve never tested this), and over those you can then use acrylic paints and again be able…[Read more]
I’ve been putting off for a while and I kinda have an idea about how to do but it doesn’t hurt to ask you guys what you’d do. So, How would you go about attaching the ball joint to the hip? I can’t get a good grip with a drill, it keeps sliding off. I was thinking about heating up a nail and making a hole.
So is this a broken part you’re trying to repair?
Best way is to drill straight through and attach the ball joint with a metal pin. Steel sewing pins are pretty good for this sort of thing – they’re tough, reasonably malleable, and easy to come by. They’re tough to cut, though…
If you’re having trouble drilling a hole through the ball joint, you…[Read more]
try go through the end that broke maybe. In other words dripp into the cracked area. it shouldn’t be round there so you shouldn’t have the slipping problem hope that works for you.
What kind of drill are you using? Pin vise? And what size drill bit?
One thing I do when I need to drill at an odd angle, or the bit keeps slipping off target, is I’ll find an angle that’s easy to drill and go with that long enough to get the hole started, then switch to the angle I realy want to drill.
Though now that I think about it, you…[Read more]