Drastic77

  • MYK1997 posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 11 years ago

    I need some help guys. One of the peg that allow armor split on my RG GP01 Fb just snapped. I mod the peg a bit just to put it back in his place. But now, I can’t even do an 135 decree knee bent. What should I do?

    DSC_0452[1]
    • there’s a few ways to go about this situation. You could replace the part which is easier said than done outside of japan. You could find a pose you really like and glue it into that pose. You could attempt a repair, judging from the pic you posted pinning maybe the way to go. you can just live with it. or the final option You could turn your…[Read more]

      • I could but it’s for the beginner section of the competition. So, I can’t rly mod. Therefore, it’s costy to buy a drill and the metal rod to fix it. I’m rly not sure of it cuz that plastic is weak.

  • MYK1997 posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 11 years ago

  • masterDS64 posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 11 years ago

    Hello again, im thinking of making a custom hg using these 2 kits, my plan, qubeley shoulders and or arms, or just a head swap of nobel to qubeley, question-any of these kits compatible with each other (not just those i mentioned)?

    • tldr wanted to try my first kit bash and a friend gave me the only idea I got…not my primary choice but I could make this good if done right XD

      • hg kits don’t use a whole lot of different polycaps so most of the joints are very similar connection wise.

        I don’t know about those two kits in particular but my guess would be that you could peg the pieces in easily enough without modification but then to get a snug fit you’d need to trim plastic.

        this is only a guess though.

  • masterDS64 posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 11 years ago

  • ZakuYuubari78 posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 11 years ago

    And will it work for tamiya paint

  • ZakuYuubari78 posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 11 years ago

    Is testors brand enamel primer reliable?

    • It’s not bad and works in a pinch, it is pretty durable & yes it works with Tamiya. Next time i suggest just commenting on your own question. otherwise you’ll get a disconnect in your posts

  • hitokiri89 posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 11 years ago

    Not really sure if this goes here but , any one else having problems posting in other groups ? Im in the intermediate contest and sometimes i can post and others theres no dialog box . Contacted hlj twice but no responce .

    • I believe @Ryan commented on this and thier working on it but it’s being elusive as to what’s causing this glitch

    • The Upload and comments are working….but the Dialog box or posting box now is impossible to find….i guess we will have to wait on them to find out what is the issue.

  • Ger Goud posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 11 years ago

    Anybody else tried using high dynamic range photography on their kits? Does it go against the contest rules?

    Also I’m having problems because I cannot post in the advanced modeler section.

    • long as you don’t doctor the photo’s afterwards, your good

    • HDR is just exposure trick. You don’t actually tamprer the photo, so I think is it would be regular.
      At least…. legal with today with newest cameras (they take different pictures and overlap, you just see the final result).
      Until few years ago you had to take separate pictures at different exposure and overlay them with photoshop. That would…[Read more]

  • kidd0218 posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 11 years ago

    Hi everyone! I have a question about painting an inner frame of an MG. Ive painted one before using Vallejo Air paint, but I may have made a mistake of not top coating it. The problem is that the paint is chipping on the joints or every time I move it. Is it because I didnt top coat it or not enough time for the paint to set. Is there a safe way…[Read more]

    • GN replied 11 years ago

      I’ve not used the Vallejo air paint, so I’m not sure on how it behaves. I generally do paint inner frames though, usually Tamiya acrylics or Alclad and yes I top coat, usually with Future Finish.

      Such a combination usually works well, but I’ve found that it won’t withstand heavy physical handling, especially if my hands are hot and sweating. That…[Read more]

      • It maybe the primer I’m using. I just bought one off the hardware store here. I just bought a Vallejo primer the other day, but I haven’t tried it yet. Trial and error I guess. heehe

        • GN replied 11 years ago

          I always used to use generic car body primer before I got my airbrush and never had bother with it, but then again, I wasn’t building Gundam mechs back then! I’ve not tried the Vallejo primer so I’ll be keen to hear how you get on with it.

      • Thanks also for replying! 🙂

        • It’s best to choose the primers that say they’re specifically for plastic. You can go to your local hobby store or arts and crafts store, then find the paints section. I used generic paints that list plastic, and they’ve worked just fine. 🙂

          For topcoat, be wary of the ones that advertise “2x thickness” as they cake the plastic really easily.

          • Thanks for the tips mate! I’ll see whether if I still want to paint the frame yet, I’m doing it for the beginner challenge plamo competition.

    • you may also want to keep in mind that paint does actually have a thickness to it, if you’re movement is too stiff if could be the paint rubbing and then no amount of topcoat or drying time will fix that, what you’ll need to do for that is sand the surface to give the paint that little extra space it needs

    • I think I may have solve part of the problem, the primer I was using was meant for plastic but I guess it was just too thick to be used on hobby grade plastics. Thanks again for the help guys!

  • Llaramys posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 11 years ago

    Hey guys, so I have a few questions about painting. I had heard that the mg musha mk 2 is undergated, and so I was wondering if it was possible to paint the parts on the runner without obvious marks in the paint scheme. I was also wondering if it was possible to paint over the chrome blades in clear paint or sharpie without ruining the chrome.…[Read more]

    • okie, 1. no you’ll have to touch up gate area’s no matter what.

      2. if it’s acrylic & you seal the chrome first with something like future, yes.

    • the point of the undergate is to hide the gatemarks by placing them on surfaces that will not be seen so touch-ups aren’t needed but the question is whether or not it’s all undergated and how well that was implemented. as for the clear paints over chrome, that can be done but be very careful not to touch it or let it run till it’s completely cured.

      • i re-read the description after i read ur comment and u’re right, only the chrome is undergated, i think the rest of the model isn’t :/ as for the chrome, i think im going to try sealing it with future like fox williamson suggested, the four day curing time sounds worth it XD thanks for the advice 🙂

        • thats why i didn’t bother mentioning it originally. did one once and yes most of the non chrome was not under-gated, so short of decanting your rattles to do touch ups after.

          and i always future my chromes before i even touch em. protects the surface and lets me even try thinks like color tinting without risking the finish.

  • Zaku 90's posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 11 years ago

    hey guys i have a question about the spray paint. Can i spray plastic that still on the runner? and when i cut it off what about the nub mark? when i use the sand paper it will rip off the color? so what can i do with it about spray a full runner and cut off without having a nub mark or rip the color? can any body know about some of these…[Read more]

    • Only just started painting like that, it’ll be mixed results…while you can spray while on the runner when you free the pieces you’ll have nub marks of what the plastic originally was and unless you got a paint brush or matching gundam marker it’ll be annoying to fix, plus if you don’t trim the nubs off the first time and then paint you may…[Read more]

    • wow thank a lot for your information masterDS64.

    • It’s always good practice NEVER to paint parts while on the runner.

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