Drastic77

Im not familiar with plastruct but the technique is to put the parts together first but dont snap the together- leave a fine gap. Then using thin cement (again, not sure if the plastruct is thick or thin), you use gravity to run the glue between the two parts and then push them together. As you say its evaporating, Id say you are using a thin…[Read more]

http://mxgs.blogspot.com/2010/04/puttyless-seam-line-removal-presanding.html

Sorry I haven’t a clue, but OMG it’s frickin’ awesome!!!

my best guess is alot of extensions using plates.

from the images I can see that atleast 3 kits are used in this build, Tallgeese III, Virtue, and the Serpent itself. the waist and shield is Tallgeese, and the legs are Virtue. It’s clear however that the front of the chin is from the serpent itself since the virtue doesn’t have that little knee part. that’s as much as I can tell. No idea how…[Read more]

those are dry transfer decals. think back to the old “press and rubs” we all had as kits, same concept.

for best usage, cut em out as tight as you can, using a piece of scotch tape to lift it, and place it on your kit, then RUB like mad, slow n firm.

From memory @Syd created a tutorial video on the dry transfer decals early in the GunplaTV series. Search through the early episodes and you should be able to find it.

Vegeta8259 on youtube has a really good tutorial on decals for beginners if your interested.

Depends, what colour you want it to be?
You could try a permanent marker or something like a Tamiya Clear paint, but the underlying yellow will cause interference. Best look at a colour chart, pigment not light, to see if there is a colour that will work.
Might be a bit of trial and error though, so test on the sprue.

tbh, the Only way to prevent silvering is to apply a gloss coat, decal then flat/satin coat over.

decals of anytype work best on a perfectly smooth surface, where flat and satins to get thier look are actually microscopic pittied coats, hense not flat.

so what you need to do is 1 gloss, apply decals then Flat/satin coat parts. Silvering is when…[Read more]

Maybe you can try to let the paint to cure for about 24 hour and then apply your decals and then let your decals dry for another 24 hours for it to be completely dry before flat top coating it. As you know, moisture affects the paint job even top coats. I’ve also learned from other tutorials that humid temperature has an effect on paint. I’m not…[Read more]

satin is about the same as matt. as the other’s have said you’ll want to use the gloss, apply the transfer then seal with whatever finish you want and that’s the finish you’ll have. a matt or satin finish over a gloss coat will cancel the glossiness.

There’s a guitar pick made of metal, I think that’s gonna do the job. goodluck Bro! @superxvegito

Primer is always best to start with. I use the vallejo range for hand painting and i use their model air range for airbrushing and they are awesome. Thinning down will most likely be a personal preference for most people as it can depend on the effect and/or result you are after. just experiment and see how you go, tho i do find that even the…[Read more]

If you have a Games Workshop near you, they do spray paint, used to be just black and white but there is a small selectuon of colours now, and they make a spray matt top coat called purity seal.
You can never thin your paints too much! You can always paint more layers. Also if you can afford too, use a paint medium rather than water to thin your…[Read more]

P.p.s. Use different brushes and water pots for normal paint and metallic paint, to prevent cross contamination.
This has happened to me arrgh 🙁
Hand painting can be a lengthy process to get really good results, bur very satisfying 🙂