gloss finishes can look good on any mobile suit just as much as a matt finish can but it does take a bit more care as gloss coats do show imperfections easier. If you’re not painting and just putting the gloss coat as a finish over the bare plastic, then at the very least I’d recommend giving the entire surface of the plastic a light sanding with…[Read more]
you can do it either way, if you panel line first then the lines will be protected just like the paint but panel lining can also run so make sure it’s completely dry as well before you spary over the kit. If you do the panel lining after the topcoat then the nature of panel lines being that they are indented into the model they should be fine unprotected.
Question. What is the main idea behind a Custom Build Gundam? What are the necessary steps that I should take to be able to create my own Custom Build Gundam and how can I do so? The main frame that I am thinking in using is the Gundam AGE Spallow 1/100 MG the main idea is to make him more animal liKe. If anyone have any ideas or suggestions I…[Read more]
the basic idea of custom gunplay is just altering the model in any manner at all. something as simple as buying Bandai’s builder parts and pasting them onto your model, or as complicated as creating entirely new parts out of sheets of plastic, or molding them from resin, but I get the impression that what your looking for is more along the…[Read more]
oh one more thing don’t restrict yourself to gundam kits, if you steal a part from Zoids kits, since those are animals you could get really good animal looks from that…..that is if you can get it to fit which would be significantly harder than just stealing from other gundam kits.
Steven thanks for the help. It really helps. I might try the Zoids idea. As soon as I manage to do something I will upload pictures. Thanks for the gel.
I’ve heard that metallic Gundam Markers can damage or destroy parts. Has that happened to anyone here? I’ve only used them for tiny parts like v-fins, eyes, and weapon blades, and it seemed to work fine. Can anyone confirm or deny the rumor? Thanks!
If only used the green metallic gundam marker. But haven’t had any problems with it. I mostly used it on clear pieces but never had any damage to the plastic afterwards.
I used the green one only one tiny parts too. But why do you want to use it on big parts?
You better get a Tamiya TS-20 Metallic green or if you’re airbrushing apply a coat of silver then a coat of clear green on it will give you a metallic green effect too.
Hi guys…. i want to ask about the extra part for gunpla where can i order from? like in this picture some part of my gunpla have been lost and broke so i want to fix these. anybody know please reply ASAP thank….
They have instruction in there website on how to order. They need the model kit type and details, runner letter and number of the parts. Some times they cannot buy an specific parts so you have to purchase the whole runner. THey also need the paper stub you got from your kit when you purchase so they can order it on behalf of you.
oh those order have been close…. and the most important is these gundam i got from my friend and i don’t have its box and runner tree. so any other idea? T-T
Hi all can someone please tell me with the Mr. Color Super Metallic Super Gold, Super Iron, would I have no choice but to either air spray those paints on myself or else find someone that could do so or can those paints also be hand painted on ?
Mr. Color in general is difficult to hand-brush, I think. It dries very quickly and (unlike acrylics or enamels) thinner in a new paint layer can disrupt paint that’s been previously applied. (This is less of an issue if you’re spraying, but if you’re brushing paint on, the physical action of brush-painting combined with the weakening of the…[Read more]
I adjusted the colors to my actual spray cans as it is just now that I have come back to see them and I plan to replace the glossy gold with Titanium Gold on some parts since it might be too shiny being alongside the silver leaf. I used a green as a background due to its “neutrality”. Would greatly appreciate your insights and tips, thanks in…[Read more]
Thank you @Java as this is my first step, i would like to go into color separation to give the parts more depth. 🙂 planning to add in a darker shade of blue to complement the light blue and a gray to complement the white. 😀
be careful putting gold and silver next to each other they blend together a little too well, from a distance you might not even be able to tell that there’s two different colors being used at all. You don’t seem to be doing that anyways but thought I’d point it out, anyways looks good.
Thanks for the advice. I am currently adding color separations to this scheme and while the silver would be shiny, the gold would be flat so there should be no problem with being too shiny, but I’ll take your advice in case. 😉
gloss finishes can look good on any mobile suit just as much as a matt finish can but it does take a bit more care as gloss coats do show imperfections easier. If you’re not painting and just putting the gloss coat as a finish over the bare plastic, then at the very least I’d recommend giving the entire surface of the plastic a light sanding with…[Read more]
Thx do i panel line before coating it
you can do it either way, if you panel line first then the lines will be protected just like the paint but panel lining can also run so make sure it’s completely dry as well before you spary over the kit. If you do the panel lining after the topcoat then the nature of panel lines being that they are indented into the model they should be fine unprotected.
my opinion.
Boxy looking gundam look more cool in flat than gloss. Gloss finish is better on rounded model.
This step might help you a little bit. lol…
1. color, 2. gloss coat, 3. panel lining, 4. flat coat.
If you got decal on it, then it will fall after step 1.