i finished modding my zeong and i started to paint it however when i did after the paint dried i could see the surface of the plastic to be all scratchy from sanding it down and such is there a way to get rid of that look like prime it or something??
What you can do is prime to see where it’s rough. If you use a grey primer then it’s easy to see changes in the surface and so, easy to try and fix. This is the best way I’ve found to smooth out plastic.
What Nick said is true, but you’ll be looking for a primer with “micro filler” added to it. Of course you need to sand it after priming it. For a flat paint, a 800 grid sandpaper will do, for gloss and metallics, a 1000 or 1200 grid sandpaper is needed. And you need to get a primer that is compatible with the paint you are using, provided you want…[Read more]
so i have to prime it with tamiyas since im using tamiya paints but after that i still have to resand it but wouldnt that create a more scratchy rough surface though??
If you are using the Tamiya acrylics, you can’t prime your parts with Tamiya Primer spray cans, nor the Tamiya Surface Primer which comes in a bottle. Both are lacquers and will ruin your messed up paint job even more!
There are two options for you, one being that you use some more paint to thicken the surface and then sand it smooth, the other is…[Read more]
Right now i already stripped off the original paint for the tamiya primer so all i have to do is prime it up then check for scratched surfaces then sand it n then re prime n then paint?
Some more in progress got the hands in started sealing some awful gaps. Tmr im gunna get that new back pack for this guy n then more sealing gaps and then painting
Schools started but comic con is only a few weeks till today so i have to get this done. Even though im the modeler i would like some opinion on how this is looking so far like maybe crticism or even ideas but im continuing on this massive project till the day its comic con
The kits coming together quite nicely, maybe scribe a few panel lines for added detail?
Also you may want to round a few of the edges to make them suit the rest of the model.
Thanks 🙂 theres still more work to be done on the chest and i will be doing scribing once all the clean up and scratching is done but i wasnt too sure if the legs should still be the same roundness since i was thinking about maybe making it blockier
Finally got the last 2 kits for my G-Reco collection being the Kabakali and the Prefect G-Self. Also picked up the RG Astray Red Frame.
Next stop, PG Banshee!
recently i picked up the unicorn gundam code 852 version
even though it is a stunningly beutiful kit, its not undergated so obviously i want to at least hide the nub marks alittle bit by adding a dash of gold on the nubs but my problem is what kind of gold would be close to the gold they have on the unicorn???
I’ve looked up some pictures of the “Hong Kong” Ver.Ka. Unicorn and it looks like a very light “gold” plating.
I would try a dot of silver and a tiny drop of clear yellow, not the normal mix of yellow and orange.
Before i knew of this mix, I used normal clear yellow on top of silver and it turned out really light instead of a, if you will, deeper…[Read more]
It looks similar to the gold on the Hyaku Shiki, maybe you could try to flat coat some regular Tamiya Gold leaf or Gold gundam Marker on a spare piece or empty runner from the 852, then see how the close the golds look.
Actually @teetee580 the gold is darker than u think its more of a hyaku shiki gold i thought that too when i saw it but i was wrong
Although trying it on the runner or something is a good idea to do thanks guys
It’s been far too long since I posted an update due to camera issues but here we go!
I’ve now built every main MG AEUG suit from Zeta (Rick Dias, Mk-II 2.0, Hyaku Shiki 2.0…
They vary heavily in quality from kit to kit, all the “G” suits, the Grimoire and the Elf bullock are very good, while the others are a bit sub-par. None of the G-reco suits have very good articulation unfortunately.
I’d recommend you try the G-self and Gastima, they’re fun builds and look good in the end.
i just realized its been a long time since i posted on this site due the the busy life of painting/building/ gundam/ other stuff 🙂
but neways im gunna do this in one shot
my…
ok two questions
1. i just got a beargguy (SO ADORABLE TTTTTTT) well i want to paint it into the 1989 batman and i got everything painted except i have no clue how to do the…
it has a little transparency but opaque for the most part. looks like fluorescent orange paint to me. or it could just be a heavy coating of clear orange with flat coat. i don’t see any traces of a silver coat underneath though.
On the Batman symbol, I would take a big piece of masking tape and draw the symbol on it, cut it out, place it on the chest and then use paint to either brush or spray it in.
With the Banshee, the Psycho Frame looks to be a Orange Yellow (Mr.Hobby # C58). If you like it to be, you could mix it with some fluorescent paint to get it to light up…[Read more]
thx i tried that idea @teetee580 but the problem is that the symbol is so very tiny that its impossible to do ive tried it a good solid 7 times (yes i counted)
thanks for giving me an idea for the banshee daverb and teetee i wasnt too sure but my problem is that my hobby shop doesnt sell mr color they only sell tamiya so i dont think the…[Read more]
That’s indeed a lot of times. I guess liquid masking is out of the question too. The only way I can think of now is getting a waterslide for the symbol. I don’t know if you have a printer, so you could give it a go yourself. Or you could contact Samuel for some costume ones.
Yes, if Tamiya paints are your only option then a fluorescent mix is out…[Read more]
You’re welcome of course. I don’t know either, when putting a clear yellow on top of a silver, it gives a goldish effect, never tried it with orange. Think I’ll try it myself too. Anyways, good luck with your projects!
What you can do is prime to see where it’s rough. If you use a grey primer then it’s easy to see changes in the surface and so, easy to try and fix. This is the best way I’ve found to smooth out plastic.
What Nick said is true, but you’ll be looking for a primer with “micro filler” added to it. Of course you need to sand it after priming it. For a flat paint, a 800 grid sandpaper will do, for gloss and metallics, a 1000 or 1200 grid sandpaper is needed. And you need to get a primer that is compatible with the paint you are using, provided you want…[Read more]
so i have to prime it with tamiyas since im using tamiya paints but after that i still have to resand it but wouldnt that create a more scratchy rough surface though??
If you are using the Tamiya acrylics, you can’t prime your parts with Tamiya Primer spray cans, nor the Tamiya Surface Primer which comes in a bottle. Both are lacquers and will ruin your messed up paint job even more!
There are two options for you, one being that you use some more paint to thicken the surface and then sand it smooth, the other is…[Read more]
Right now i already stripped off the original paint for the tamiya primer so all i have to do is prime it up then check for scratched surfaces then sand it n then re prime n then paint?
That’s correct. Good luck!
Actually quick question wht happens if u put primer over the tamiya acrylics
The same thing as you put lacquers on top of acrylics. It’ll start dissolving the paint and eventually it’ll peal right off