I just recently finished my RG Mk-II. Instead of the original color scheme, I decided to try the original, typical lead Gundam color scheme which I think looks nice, but the dark blue look is probably better. It is also my first time playing with Tamiya weathering pigments. Might have been a bit over done, but definitely learned a lot!
Hi guys! It’s me again. Thanks for helping out with painting last time 🙂
I have been spending more time painting the details on inner frames. I have been using Gundam marker to draw on it but it is impossible to get into tiny spots/corners.
What kind of paint should I use? There are so many kinds out there and I’m not sure which is the best…[Read more]
While it may seem odd, a common use with gundam markers is to press the pen tip into a tray to extrude paint, and then use a brush to apply the paint. I say it seems odd cause normally you’d just think “it’s a marker filled with paint, so why use a brush?”, but if you want to get into those tight spaces, or not mess up painting small parts, you…[Read more]
Acrylics and enamels are the most common sorts of paint to hand brush on plastic models. Though acrylic is the most common these days, it has some flaws to it. The biggest is that it is not as durable and strong, but safer in use.
Enamels are really strong and almost scratch resistance. The drawback is that they take a much longer time to dry.…[Read more]
My next project will be an HG Wing Gundam and I’d like to turn those yellow parts into a shiny gold (think Hyaku Shiki or Akatsuki). What is the best practical way for me to achieve such a color? I don’t have any fancy airbrush. I have been eying over those metallic spray paints but I’m not sure if…[Read more]
Just airbrushing alone won’t give you effect you want. Metallic spray paints also don’t give you an actual metal finish, just a sparkly one. What you want is something similar to Krylon’s premium series, or any other series of paints that actually give you the metal sheen, without sparkly bits thrown in.
There are two ways to go about it….
#1- If there aren’t a lot of parts that need to be painted, a more cost effective way is to buy the Valleo Liquid Metal set. This set consists of 4 different paints; Silver, Bronze, Old Gold and Gold. The Old Gold is a color between Gold and Bronze. These can only be painted with a brush. And unlike other…[Read more]
just to add to that a bit, you should also clean your parts thoroughly and give them a good sanding with a very high grit sandpaper, to get the smoothest cleanest surface, which will in turn give you the best results with either method. won’t garuntee a perfect shiny gold but it’ll get the best out of your paints, for a true gold you need to get…[Read more]
Electroplating can be done on plastic. I recently have seen a video with Adam of MithBusters on YouTube. He has a life size Endoskeleton of the Terminator. It is chromed in the same way as they chrome metal parts for cars and it’s fully plastic. They spray a highly copper based material on it first in order to run an electric current through the…[Read more]
that’s cool wasn’t sure, but yeah wasn’t really expecting anyone try it. Though if they did that’d be the way to get actual mirror finishes. Kinda extreme but now that I know it’s possible I wonder if I’ll ever see anyone go that far.
I have been building Gunpla for a while, but I have just got a chance to apply water slide decals on my MG Nu Ver Ka kit. One problem I ran into is, after everything dry off, the decals may easily fall off is I accidentally touch it. Here is how I apply,
1. Dip the decal in water and wait for about 5-10 seconds.
2. Slide and position it on the…[Read more]
Hi CrazyPipo.
The problem is that you didn’t applied a gloss coat first. A common thing is that the surface of the plastic is too smooth, nor a mark setter solution. This makes the decals easier to stick on a smooth surface. Don’t know if there is a good substitute for mark setter if you can’t get a hold of it…
To get them stay on, apply a clear…[Read more]
you can actually brush a VERY thin coat over each decal after removing access water. It’ll prevent mussing them up as you work, and when you’re ready to apply a full coat of clear coat, you wont have to worry about the decals coming off do to air brush or spray can pressure.
that’s right, as teetee580 said, I’m in decal stage now with the same kit of yours, that also my problem, what I did is that after putting the decals, I immediately gloss coat or clear coat it so that it will stick firmly on to the plastic.
forgot this one…
Looks very nice. I like it. Though you can see the decals.
That’s one thing I noticed. I’m not sure if using decal setter would make it less visible.
Decal setter works for waterslides. Those look like regular stickers.
Thanks! I don’t know much about decals yet. Hope to learn more soon 🙂
Looks really good.
WOW looks good. Loves the RX78-2 liked colour
btw I think it would better by using the waterslides. Non the less great job bro
Thanks. I’ll try next time 🙂
fantastic job on the weather though… great work.