Hi all, I’m new to hobbylink tv but not on the gunpla hobby 🙂
Just wanted to post question i’m trying to find solution for few months now, let me explain.
I build few MG/PG/RG models so far but my last 2 kits are MG with water slide decals. The Sazabi and the Hi Nu which is in progress. I completed the sazabi and applied all the decals but what…[Read more]
If you’re not worried about painting and everything, and just want them to stay, you can either use some decal set, or spray the parts with a clear coat after applying decals. Decal set will have instructions on how to use it. Clear coat will let change the look of the kit depending on the type you use(flat or gloss).
Also put the decals in warm water. This will make the sort of glue that is on them more active. And like Slater4u said, use Decal Set. Just put a few drops in the water before placing the decals in. After they have dried for at least an hour, put some Decal Soft on top and let this also dry for at least one hour. After that you can apply the Decal…[Read more]
srry but thats gunna be pretty hard u could try gentei kits but im pretty sure its sold out if not ebay is ur best place but be ready to spend alot on it since its gunna be pretty difficult to get considering it came out a while ago
Hey guys! So im new to painting(hand painting btw) and was wondering with those acrylic paints(e.g. tamiya) do i apply the paint directly or do i have to mix it with paint thinner or water???
You can apply it directly, or thinned. Make sure that you use the right thinner though, as enamel thinner will cause acrylic to glob up. Acrylic paints you should be more and fine without thinning it out.
Hello there.
Firstly, Tamiya and other Alcohol based “acrylics” need to be thinned with alcohol or Tamiya X-20A.
Acrylics like Vallejo can be thinned down with water, but I suggest using distilled water or the thinning agent made by Vallejo. Some people even use Windex or any other Ammonia based cleaning agent for it.
And second, it all depends on…[Read more]
About the retarder. You dont have to use the same brand retarder as the paint. You can use general retarder for acrylic paints and it would work good. Im using retarder from Talens with both Tamiya and Vallejo paints (from non Air lines). Vallejo Air paints already have retarder in them so there is no need to add more – also despite being…[Read more]
Ok so… I recently spent like WAY too much on gunpla lol any who I have several kits now and 3 of them are Ver Ka. I got the sazabi, the Nu and the Full Armor unicorn(all ver ka) then I have a shin musha, an Astray red frame, andthe PG Unicorn… which should I do first??? I just don’t know lol oh and i have an hg unicorn destroy mode and the bansh…[Read more]
your back log is starting to look like mine 🙂 i would recommend the FA Uni first. then the PG YOLOcorn, then the rest of the ver ka stuff. Sazabi is a monster and a shelf destroyer so make sure u got space, now that i think about it so is the FA Uni… and i think the Nu is as well but i havent finished mine yet. I don’t do HGs… so yeah my vote…[Read more]
Haha I just bought a shelf that hopefully will hold them all! I started out doin HG.. but prob not painting cause I don’t have skill haha. I will possibly paint the shin musha but waiting on an airbrush lol my pastors gonna let me borrow it!!
Do the HG’s first. Then Red Frame (should be easiest MG of the bunch), then Shin Musha and then the Katoki hell….. Start with FA Uni, then the NU (some parts are tricky) and then the Sazabi
Ok so… I recently spent like WAY too much on gunpla lol any who I have several kits now and 3 of them are Ver Ka. I got the sazabi, the Nu and the Full Armor unicorn(all ver ka) then I have a shin musha, an Astray red frame, andthe PG Unicorn… which should I do first??? I just don’t know lol oh and i have an hg unicorn destroy mode and the…[Read more]
I understand what you are saying . I also had a huge back log of kits and did not know which one to start but i would recommend you to do the Hg banshee norn