awesomesauce

given how inset the poly cap is i imagine it would do so yes, but there would be a limit to how much you can cut away before the movement becomes to much for the (rather shallow looking) polycap that the leg just falls out all the time, id try and dummy it up with a spare piece first if possilble

HLJ doesn’t carry web-exclusive items, and HLJ is carrying this item, therefore this item isn’t a web-exclusive… 🙂
More seriously though – the online exclusive is a different version of the Gold Frame.
Web Exclusive: “Gold Frame Amatsu”
General Release: “Gold Frame Amatsu Mina”
Probably the easiest-to-identify difference is that Mina has high…[Read more]

I was confused as heck by this too. Had to check the Gundam wiki and guess that the exclusive one is the “incomplete” form of the amatsu that they list. Even when I was looking at the magazine advertisement for the kit releases side by side I wasn’t sure haha.

To my memory (and if I have the right one 😛 ), this is the exact same mold as the MG Zaku II 1.0 with different shades of green. Being effectively the 1.0, the 2.0 has more detail and articulation in most aspects than the older 1.0 design.

As Nick said, the Zaku OYW color is a recolored version of the original MG Zaku that came out in 1995. Personally I think the MG Zaku looks a lot cooler than the 2.0 – but in modern terms the kit is a big HG with minimal poseability (It’s got all the usual moving joints, but the armor design doesn’t give them much room to move.) The old MG…[Read more]

The only thing that comes to my mind is adding a little thinner even though it is already brush on paint. That way your layers will be thinner and not to thick. Another trick I use is dip the brush in thinner and blot it on a paper towel before picking up the paint. That way the brush still has thinner on it and the paint tends to glide of the…[Read more]

I’ve seen them in the stores but haven’t tried building one yet. From what I understand they have a prebuilt standard frame (as in all the kits have the exact same frame) and the armor comes on runners. all in all I’d have to say they’re probably easier to build than any RG or MG, but more complicated than any HG or non grade.

1. it’s a PIA.
2. reason it’s a pia is you basically have to thin your paint out, and then brush it on in super thin layers. while won’t be perfect, will make it easier if you avoind going over panel lines

Hey Fox, i usually thin the paint depending on how thick or thin the paint is already is out of the can, i cam using Water Based Acrylics from a company called Revell (They manufacture military style hobby kits out of Germany). and i usually go over the kit in multiple layers (maximum i have done so far is 3), do you think i could manually make…[Read more]

I have some pics of my Turn A and other gunpla on my page but be nice if you leave comments I’m shy with my gunpla skills

took a quick look at your pics didn’t notice the cracks and everything looks fine, it’s unfortunate that you’re having problems like that. I don’t have the kit myself but can’t really imagine what the issue might be unless you either used too much pressure or somehow weakened your plastic. anyways good job keeping it together despite the…[Read more]

I covered up most of the cracks, the cockpit is broken and the pics show that, i used a panel wash afterwards and i think thats what cracked armor after i built it, but when i put it together the arm and leg armor cracked in different places, i love the turn a and im sad i got a bad kit, i will never buy from anywhere but hlj now

Yeah watching gunpla TV, the boss Scott mentioned that while building the tallgeese he used an enamel thinner to do the panel wash, and if you let the enamel thinner stay on the plastic parts too long it will make the plastic brittle and crack. Sorry about your kit mate. I know what it feels like to have your kit break down on you. My first master…[Read more]

Not sure what kind of paint it is, some sites list it as lacquers while others do not. Now according to Tamiya it says about this paint “These spray paints were developed especially for decorating transparent polycarbonate bodies used in R/C car modeling. Each can contains 100ml of paint, which is the appropriate amount for finishing the model.…[Read more]

The PS spray cans are mainly used for the RC cars/boats type of plastic. The TS spray line are made for model plastics. Well thats what i’ve been told anyway. I’ve used the PS spray on my gundam models and they turned out fine, tho i found it to be a bit thicker than the TS spray.

reasonably sure they are lacquers though not 100%. Anyways I have used a couple of the Tamiya PS line, I wasn’t paying attention when I was buying and they were the right color, anyways I’ve used them with no issues and in my case it wasn’t a top coat but rather the actual colored paint.

Really there shouldn’t be an issue despite the warning,…[Read more]

I think it would be something cool to try

I know modelers have gotten parts made from printing services and the like… Sure, why not? If you’ve got the money for it, and the ability to design the parts you need…

I don’t think they do 1/60. HLJ have 1/35 scale and SDs.

http://www.hlj.com/scripts/hljlist?Word=patlabor&DisplayMode=images&Dis=2&Sort=std&qid=WH9K4ZKF9E6MNOBS&set=1&q=1&Maker2=BAN

Is this what you are looking for?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR1.TRC0.X1%2F60+patlabor.TRS0&_nkw=1%2F60+patlabor&_sacat=0&_from=R40