awesomesauce

There’s a Chrome Silver Gundam Marker made by Bandai and also from Tamiya available in the market. You can use that to touch up the nub marks. Although I am not sure if its available in your local hobby shops. 🙂

I forgot about the marker. You could try that, or possibly a very very light dry brushing of chrome paint. I haven’t had the chance to deal with this issue myself, so I’m curious to know what you decide to do and how it turns out. Good luck.

don’t know if it’s possible to completely hide such things one of the problems with gloss finishes and even worse on reflective surfaces is that you can’t really do touch ups but that said I’d use either an alcad 2 silver or a mr.color super metallic silver, there’s a few choices in each and they’re as far as I’ve heard the closest to an actual…[Read more]

Best thing that works for me and a lot of other peeps –
1. gloss coat
2. apply decals
3. top coat (gloss or flat)
Decals should be good and protected. 🙂

I heard standard Krylon for plastics spray paint works well and you’ll want to paint each individual piece so your not left with spots where the runners were cut off afterwards. just make sure you keep it organized so you know which piece is which.

@TheIrishLizard
Be careful with the spray paints you see in the hardware stores. Some of them contain highly concentrated thinners. Some thinners can soften the plastic or even worst melt it. I agree with @Storm , Krylon spray paints is a good alternative and more cheaper than most of the hobby spray paints sold in most hobby shops. You may also…[Read more]

Regarding the nub mark sitiutation… What I do depending on the colour of the piece is use a bit of gundam marker… For example I’m build the strike freedom atm and on the dark blue bits… I put a bit of black marker on it and rub… An it blends in to make it look darker! The same with the red I used red gundam marker and did the same……[Read more]

I’m also quite new and this is what I’ve found about tightening joints:
To tighten a loose joint you would use super glue on one of the pieces, wait for it to dry, then put it back where it belongs. By doing this you give the joint some extra friction so it will be stiff but still movable as apposed to just gluing the whole thing together where it…[Read more]

What acrylic are you using? And how are you applying it?
Usually a ratio around 3:1 or 4:1 is a good starting point, but what you want is paint that flows freely, but not so thin that it’s ineffective. “Consistency of milk” is a term that’s thrown around a lot.

If your doing brush work, mini painters would say you can not mix to thinly. It’s pretty much about the even spread of pigment over a surface, . It’s easier to paint more thin layers, and almost impossible to strip of thick layers of paint.
I would suggest getting an old model and doing paint tests to see what you feel comfortable with.
It’s…[Read more]

Pose them and leave them,simple.

Or just wear realy big gloves thst wont allow you to touch them.
🙂

I had the same issue, what I done is take a few of the best poses I can, take a pic of each with the best camera you got then leave them in THE best pose you can think of as the final one.

This way while the hg death scythe hell is falling to bits…but its MG counter part is intact 😉

Its pic 2 in ohio usa thankz wed

Can’t see it in this photo… But depending on what’s going on, my suggestion would be one of three things:
If you’ve still got a faint little recessed line, it could be that the putty shrank (putty does this) – just add more, let it dry thoroughly, and sand it again.
If the edges are uneven (creating like a “stair-step” between the two parts)…[Read more]