• Alteira posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 7 years, 9 months ago


    So i got myself a mg sinanju ver ka. I want to paint the gold trim of the sinanju with tamiya gold leaf and im new to the painting part so here’s my questions:

    1. Should i use a thinner when i paint the gold trim or can i do without?
    2. will the 0.3mm brush do fine?
    3. is it a must to topcoat it? if so should i go for matte or gloss?

    regards alteira

    • Can’t answer 1 or 2 as I’m learning myself (im just using acrylic, you could get away with not thinning it for those parts but not sure if acrylic has same rules as enamel) but with 3…

      Top coating PROTECTS the paint, and enhances the effect, but its up to you which to do, want it shiny like a show room car, go for gloss, or you want it flat so it kinda has a militaristic feel then maybe a matte, try looking up a few kits and see how you go…

      May i suggest using the mg hyaku shiki to maybe help, the special hd edition version is done in a matte, while the regular is done in chrome plating but is shiny, maybe not the same shine as gloss but its an example

    • mixing with paint, of course if you want the gold paint to be smooth. If you intend to use airbrush, masking it will be best way to do it. What I did is –
      1. spray black,
      2. mask black, cut along the line,
      3. spray gold.
      4. touch up black paint if is over it.
      5. clear coat.
      Hope that help you.

      • aah! but i plan to handbrush it..somehow i forgot to type it..:/ can’t afford airbrushing and spray cans are generally expensive here in sweden at atleast where i bought my can..i tried it once masking and using spraycan on the mg strike freedom’s guns (the blue part) it turned out ok a little bleed but all in all ok. should i spray can or handbrush? if handbrushed should i thin the paint?

        thx for replies!

        • my bad. Hand painting with metallic color, try adding leveling thinner if you can find it, or just few drop of retarded mild from Mr. Hobby. It will be more smoother. 🙂

          • would the tamiya x20a thinner work??:)

            thanks for the replies!

            • If you are using Tamiya acrylic paint, yes. You can use X20A. If is lacquer paint, then you need leveling/retarded mild. have you use Tamiya enamel paint, is is really smooth with hand paint. 🙂

    • I’ve actually used the specific paint you’re talking about before and my recommendation would be to use the leveling thinner as well, gold leaf paint has quite a thickness to it as it has somewhat large metallic particles in it and with hand brushing details the thinner the better so you don’t bleed onto other parts you don’t want gold, but I’d still recommend masking around the gold if you can since the leveling thinner to do it’s job will cause a bit of a run itself this is how it does the leveling.

      I would also recommend a top coat for protection but I’d say gloss since part of the point of a metallic paint is the shine you get from it so you wouldn’t want to dull it out with a matte finish, but if you want the rest of the kit to be matte then in my opinion it’d be too much trouble to mask off just the gold to be gloss so in that case just go matte.

      also generally as a rule it is recommended to put a layer of black paint down before any metallic paint, this is because metallic paints have a transparency to them and the black paint beneath brings out the intended color, though I believe some Tamiya paints tell you to lay down silver instead of black.

      Oh and x20 is just thinner it’s not a leveling thinner so what you’d want is what they call retarder, to get the leveling effect, oh and make sure you’re retarder and thinner are right for the paint you’re using eg. acrylic for acrylic, enamel for enamel, and lacquer for lacquer.

      • Hi!

        This guy is only using the gold leaf with no thinner.
        i plan to mask around where i paint but i don’t know what to do with the emblem. is it possible to use like a gundam marker/real touch marker to fill in the black lines? i think i’ll go for gloss then but what about the semi-gloss??

        thanks for the replies!:)

        • looked over that post and there’s more to it than paint, some parts he’s using foil stickers and painting gold over that which he shows and he actually does point out quite a few techniques as well under his painting tips, which I’d say are worth checking out it’s quite informative.

          The only part he explicitly painted on the model was the chest actually and presumably the wrists, and the chest close up you can see that it’s not quite smooth there’s some bumpiness to it, I noticed that and you can zoom in and see it better if you click on the image, the point of the retarder is to let that even itself out, retarder btw is what makes thinner into leveling thinner also btw.

          anyways it’s a delicate balance, too much retarder and the paint will take forever to dry and not enough and you may as well not be using it so up to you how you want to go about that.

          As for the real touch markers to go over the black, well I don’t see why not but if you go over any gold overspray with it make sure the gold is properly dried or it’ll get into the pen and screw it up.

          and on the semi-gloss thing, it’s your choice if that’s the finish you want though I don’t really see many people talk about that.
          What you can do is cut a bit of scrap from a runner and spray that and see if it’s to your taste, paint it just like you would the actual model so you can get the best idea of the results.
          Anyways to me semi-gloss is something I’d mostly use for maybe skin or leather, something kinda organic, but that’s just me.

          • what ratio would you suggest? 60% retarder 40% paint? just got my sinanju so now i need to order the paint etc..

            thanks for the help! really appreciate it!

            • retarder I can’t really say I’ve never really used a separate retarder I use leveling thinner which has the retarder included but that said it seems the Tamiya x-20a thinner does have some retarder in it already so just go with that and as for thinning you kinda have to find what works for you but in general the recommendation seems to be 2 drops paint to 1 drop thinner for your standard paint and more thinner for metallic and as your paint gets older it dries out so maybe a bit more then as well, anyways I’d say start with the the 2 drops paint to 1 drop thinner and test it on a scrap piece of plastic. anyways I try to go for what they call the milky consistency which isn’t really something I can really explain so more or less you have to go by feel.

              what’s normally said is that you want to do multiple thin layers for best results which basically means wipe the brush off a bit before painting then do it again.

              anyways I don’t think I can help you any further as far as the thinning goes that’s sort of an art in itself, but good luck.