The next section of our MG Viewer Choice Build is the arms and hands, and we at GunplaTV want to show you a very well-known modification that is simple to do; separating the fingers. For many this is the first ‘modification’ attempted when just starting out in the wide world of Gundam plastic modeling and for good reason. It’s easy to do and provides good results. But remember, these parts are small so be careful.
If you’ve got a question or comment about what you saw in this video let us know and we’ll do our best to answer it in the next episode!
In this episode:
– 1/100 MG Full Armor Gundam
– 1/144 HGUC Gunpla Starter Set: Gundam Vs. Zaku II
– 1/100 MG NSN-06S Sinanju Ver. Ka
– 1/100 MG Sinanju Ver. Ka Titanium Finish
– Hasegawa Modeling Saw Scriber Set
– Tamiya Design Knife
– Tamiya Fine Sand Paper
MG Sinanju Ver. Ka Titanium Finish – Box picture
MG Sinanju Ver. Ka Titanium Finish – Special titanium finish
Hi, I have a few short questions hopefully you can help with regarding Mr. Mark Setter and Mr. Mark Softer.
1. Are they both only suitable for water based decal?
2. How do you use Mr. Mark Setter on water based decal since the decal will be wet during transferring to the plastic model?
I think it would be great to have some tutorials on these since the description of these products are in Japanese and it is very difficult to find a good tutorial on the net.
How about next time the decals for your next show?
You so silly.
Great video this week. I was wondering how to do the individual fingers, as the MG Exia arrived today from HLJ! It’s my first MG, so I’m glad you addressed this. Thanks! Great Sinanju by the way.
how do you make custom make decals…? i get it that you can design them on photoshop, but what about printing them?
decals would be a good topic after you finish with the MG full armor
Thanks for the comments everyone!
We will be discussing decals in the next episode as well as the uses for things like Mark Setter and Mark Softer. To explain in detail in the form of a post would be pretty lengthy, so please tune in next time for that and other news and Gunpla related stuff.
If you want to print decals you can buy decal paper and print them in an ink jet or laser printer – though the obvious problem there is that most printers can’t print opaque white on a transparent sheet… To get around that you can print on white decal paper (and have non-transparent decals) I’ve never really tried printing decals on ink jet but I whip up a batch to print on a laser printer from time to time (usually black-only stuff)
Home-printing white decals is possible with the right printer – but the right printer is expensive to buy and to maintain. The most common ones are dye sublimation printers made by Alps – which also happen to be discontinued. So usually it’s better to just rely on someone else who owns one, buy decals that they print or have them print decals you’ve designed.
As for decal tutorials – there are tutorials out there for sure because every genre of plastic modeler needs to know how to apply decals… I know there’s a couple good decal turials on http//www.gamerabaenre.com…
Basically – decal setting agent and decal solvent aren’t strictly necessary, though of course they can improve your results. The first thing is you should have a glossy finish on your model before you apply decals. Matte finishes are actually (on a small scale) a rough surface, which means that you could apply your decal to the matte surface and wind up with tiny bits of air trapped underneath. This results in an effect known as “silvering”… So you want that nice, smooth gloss finish prior to decaling.
Setting agent, if you use it, is applied to the surface of the model prior to placing the decal. It helps improve the decal’s adhesion to the model and helps it settle down onto the surface. Personally I don’t use it much – it can be helpful but it can also make it harder to move the decal around if you discover you placed it wrong the first time.
Decal solvent basically just softens the decal film. This helps it to adhere better and to conform to whatever curvature the model may have. It’s normally applied after the decal is on but before everything’s dry.
To apply a decal, cut it out from the decal sheet. Use a fresh, sharp hobby knife and don’t cut too close to the decal itself or you could crack the decal film. Put the mark in water just long enough for the paper to soak up some water – 15-30 seconds should be plenty. Then give the water soaked up in the paper some time to loosen up the glue holding the decal down – once the decal is mobile, just slide it onto the model. Once a decal is on you can keep moving it around until it’s where it needs to be. A wet, clean paint brush is helpful for this.
maybe i can help with some of these questions.
KL – 1. no. you can use them for all types. i’m using both products now. the most important thing to consider is the surface material/condition. not the decal itself. with exceptions made for metallic decals. those dont seem to work as well.
2. you have to let it dry first! or you can manually dry it out with a cotton swab or cloth
spikesagitta – you need to buy a special type of decal printing paper. ive never done it myself but ive seen it sold in modeling shops. you can also order them online from some different places. most people seem to like samuel decal.
Can you upload a video of how to paint a kit? Maybe by hand brushing or spray painting it. I want to learn how you made your impressive yellow Sinanju!
We will be covering painting in future episodes. As you can imagine we get many questions asking for specific things and we can’t possibly answer them all at once. We set to work explaining decals in the next episode and the painting one will be shown in the near future. We have many ideas we want to show, and we want to show you what you want to see so keep up the questions and suggestions, everyone.
Is there a special way to remove nubs and apply water decals for the titanium sinanju? Thnks!
>Is there a special way to remove nubs and apply water decals for the titanium sinanju? Thnks!
For the titanium finish, or any extra finish kit without undergates on the runner, Applying waterslide decals and removing nubs will be the same, except forgo using sandpaper as it will remove the extra finish. So you’ll have to get as much as possible with your hobby knife. As for water slides http://gamerabaenre.com/waterslide_decal.htm has a pretty good tutorial including videos and detail instructions.
To explain what an undergate is look at this picture.
As you can see the gate that connects the part to the runner is connected directly to the surface of the part. This means no matter how well you cut it out you’re going to get a blemish, these can be covered up or camouflaged with a dab of metallic red paint.
Now look at the Hyaku Shiki MG
The runners gates are connected to the underside of the part, hence the name undergate. This is beneficial because now when you cut off the part you don’t have to worry about leaving marks on the extra finished part’s surface.
Syd, that yellow bird Sinanju is AMAZING! I don’t have any experience with customizing kits let alone repainting a whole one but now I’m really looking forward to a ‘how to paint’ video.
Lovin’ this gunpla tv series.
i totally agree with disco_spawn 🙂 and i maswell ask you sid or any1 who would like to answer when is undercoat needed?
soz i meant syd 🙂
Really like what you guys are doing for Gunpla with these videos. It spreads the word about it and I’m sure it helps newcomers a lot.
My question, whats the song used for the intro? Maybe another viewer can help me out
HLJ : Luke
The song i used for the intro is called “Run” by Sonny Jim.
It’s noted in the intro of every Gunpla episode.
Hey man like the show. I haven’t done any modeling for a while and its cool to see the figures assembled from start to finish. I know the show is called Gunpla and deals with the many different models from the various gundam series but I was wondering if at some time in the future you could show us a non-gundam mech, perhaps macross, full metal panic, evangelion or other series. Great job on the yellow bird Sinanju.
Whoops, guess I should have tilted my head.
Thanks for answering anyways!
Thank guys for your answers, tips and suggestions 🙂
Hi! Just simply impressive video period! Now as you may know about the titanium finish sinanju that the most difficult thing to do is to cut and trim it without damaging the side/surface. What would you suggest to do or tip on not mess up the cutting/trimming?