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Drastic77 posted an update in the group
Q/A & Help Group 9 years, 2 months ago Hello, after over 15 years, I have decided to try my hand at gunpla again. As a kid growing up I had built a few SD and 1/100 HG kits poorly. Extra parts, broken pieces and awful paint jobs. Lacked the resources, patience, and knowledge to do a good job. Now that I am all grown up, I was hoping to pick up the hobby again, but this time do things right. I recently picked up a MG RX 78-2 version 3.0. It’s my first Master Grade and I am planning to paint it using spray cans. There are so many brands of spray paint and so many different opinions on which brand is good for what out there. What brands do you recommend for my situation? What techniques do you recommend for painting? How should I approach the build/paint process for this MG kit? Please reply as if you are talking to a total newb who knows nothing about gunpla. Thanks in advance
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Q/A & Help Group
…well im a noob at painting BUT the easiest, safest way for painting is to take the parts of the sprues/runners/trees/sheets or whatever you like to call them BEFORE painting, unless you got matching paint and a brush you’ll have mis-matching nub marks, and…as I learnt the hard way gundam markers of near color are not wise…
I use tamiya spray cans, the TS color range has been more effective than the other types (found the ps type flakes off easier than the TS paints, although some colors like straight purple aren’t in TS), keep about 30cm from the part you’re painging and don’t aim to cover a piece in one go, light coats work best (I learnt the hard way here, wasted so much paint on a hg ><).
Also, I wouldn't of reccomended going a hg for your first project to get back into things, a newer one may be best as some (like the hg unicorn) are alot more complicated to build than some older master grades (mg hyaku shiki was dead easy).
Least you didn't have my issue when I stopped for 5 years…my first mg was the master gundam, the screws didn't fit…stopped the hobby with the thought all mg's had screws, how wrong I was! (newer ones VERY rarely need them, your kit is obviously free from screws :P)
And one last noob tip…plan your paint job, put it on paper (even just using ms paint and a saved line art) THEN apply, don't change your thoughts last minute!
Thanks for sharing, I appreciate the pointers. What is your opinion on pre-building before painting and peg cutting. I don’t know much about either, but I been reading around that some people do it because it helps you know where you have to build first to eliminate seam lines.
No idea about peg cutting, if you pre build just have the parts sit there and not be too secure, or work out how to separate said parts while in construction that won’t rip the parts…apart.
I’m not an expert in this field though, but for piece trouble shooting during a build I don’t snap pieces fully in until I’m sure it’ll work, may work for you, may not *waves for an expert*
Some people would straight build the entire kit then disassemble it and glue/putty the parts that are needed. Others will carefully study the manual and see what pieces need to be glued. I’m more of the second category. But even if I didn’t build the 3.0 I think that they won’t be any visible seamlines except maybe for the beam rifle or the bazooka. Bandai made a great job of hiding seamlines on their kits this last few years.
thanks for the input, it seems there are not many seam lines to worry about after the armor is put on to the frame. I plan to do priming before painting and I am worried that my panel lines and some details will disappear. I have been reading about “scribing,” or carving details out lightly. What is you guys’s opinion on this?