Well the name is Bad Robot, it is a movie production company. What that is, is a limited edition Mascot Maquette. They only made 1000 and each of them was numbered. It has been out since 2011, so your best bet would be check ebay and other auction sites.
I recently finished mounting a Bandai PG MS-06F Zaku II 30th Anniversary Extra Finish Version.
The LED unit is crazy. Shame on Bandai for this crazy circuit with lot of metallic parts that do not stick and stay fixed. The whole mechanism is very cumbersome, and the 3 screws do not fix the front part, where the switch is located, so…[Read more]
Can’t say I’ve ever had problems with mine… If I ever did, then I guess I would replace all those spring contacts and stuff, just wire in a self-contained switch.
Hey guys, I am still fairly new to building kits and I am in the process of putting a flat top coat on my HG Buster. How long would you suggest for the top coat to dry before putting the kit back together? I waited 24 hours on my 1/100 Freedom but when I checked the Buster after about 2 hours it looked about the same as the Freedom did after 24 hours.
oh ..5 to 10 that stuff drys quick.it drys just as fast or quicker then primer it will just be a litte stick for a little onger at that time u cna check by tapp a side of each part on the smooths side of ur hand to see if it at all sticky*not sticky as in the paint comes off like a sticker sticky* if so put it near a fan to help it futre dry and…[Read more]
to add to that a bit, most paints for models have a 24 hour cure time. They’ll be dry to the touch in a couple of hours and I’d even say it should be safe to assemble after maybe 2-3 hours usually, but if you’re going to mask something for like another layer of paint, the masking may pull off the paint since it’s not fully cured.
Does anyone have some advice for repairing a broken hip ball joint? It’s for the 1/100 Dynames, the ball joint broke off in the leg. The plan atm is to drill it out and put in a new plastic rod to support it.
that would be ok but time consuming. Try putting a very strong adhecive which is consist of mixing adhesive A & B. Make sure to apply in between the broken parts.Just make sure to align it properly and rest it for 3-4 days.
After application adn curing of the super strong adhevise you can sand down the excess parts of the adhesive and paint it…[Read more]
IF I can’t pry out the ball from the leg I will give that a go. Thanks for your help. I suppose that would be better than supergluing it and I can repair the broken binders at the same time. This really is a fragile kit.
I would use a type of cement like, my favorite is Tamiya thin cement. Here is what it says about using cements This is the main type of glue used to construct plastic (styrene) models. Polystyrene cement is actually a solvent that dissolves a thin layer of the plastic model and fuses it to the adjacent piece. You actually get a weld rather than a…[Read more]
I tried it. It’s not a clean break and once the leg is attached it put must stress on the glue and it breaks again.
Thanks for the help anyway mate. I’m going to give Johnnel’s suggestion a go tomorrow other wise i’m screwed.
your original plan is correct, though you’d probably want to use a metal rod not plastic for strength. What you want to do is get the ball out of the joint glue it back into place, sand it down to fit properly again, then drill down the center of that and place your rod into this, make sure it’s flush and after that you may need to sand…[Read more]
Thanks Steven. I’m going to buy some 2 part expoy tomorrow, it’s only a £1.
Step 1, get the ball out of the socket.
Step 2, connect it back to the hip.
Step 3, cry because step 2 didn’t work.
Step 4, see what I can do about a metal rod replacing the ball joint. I’ll loose articulation, but it will fix the model. It’s a 00 kit and they’re not…[Read more]
Id leave the ball in there and use a piece of wire to join the two pieces up again i.e. drill into the ball and into the broken peg, insert a piece of wire and then carefully glue. You should end up with a strong join and if you glue carefully, you wont lose articulation
Thanks you Tristan. Instead of wire I went with plastic cut off a spare runner, because I don’t have any wire. I’ve cemented the piece of plastic into a hole I made in the… Piece of plastic the ball joint snapped off, where you’d put the wire.
I just now have to wait for me to stop being so damn lazy and drill a hole in the ball joint, I tried…[Read more]
I generally go with the Tamiya acrylics for my airbrush. For more “bulk” colours, Createx makes a great range of airbrush paint including some nice “pearl” finishes. For metallics, the expensive Alclad paints work superbly well.
mostly what i do if its a glosses clear coats i buy a home paint version of clear coat in a can i pay for 3 bucks and i get like 3 or 4 cans worh of paint clear coat works just like the hobby ones.
I use artists fixative which you should be able to get from any art store. Its the stuff you use to spray on drawings and photos to protect them. I tend to use the matt version but have used a gloss version and it was quite shiny!
I’m in the uk and trying to find a good Gloss coat, acrylic basied paint. I have hear Pledge FloorCare Multi Surface Finish is good, but cant find it anywhere. Any suggestions?
Hi Ryhs, I looked online and found a product out your way called Plasti-Kote Super Clear Acrylic, it is a UK based company and states it can be used on ABS plastic. Hope that’s a good start for you.
The floor product you’re looking for is more commonly known among modelers as “Future Floor Polish” – If you search for that online you may be able to find an up-to-date list of regional equivalents…
I’ve heard good things about that product but never tried using it before, I really like glossy looks too, to me it’s more realistic than flat coats, after all if you go out and look at your car it’s probably pretty glossy if you keep it in even half good condition.
As I said I haven’t tried that product but I’ve found that Mr. Super Clear UV…[Read more]
Go to B&Q and buy plastikote clear, it’s gloss but it’s enamel tho. Otherwise do you have a Modelzone near you? They always have what I need and their staff is very knowledgeable and helpful.
I posted this above to another question but it may be of help
I use artists fixative which you should be able to get from any art store. Its the stuff you use to spray on drawings and photos to protect them. I tend to use the matt version but have used a gloss version and it was quite shiny!
Well the name is Bad Robot, it is a movie production company. What that is, is a limited edition Mascot Maquette. They only made 1000 and each of them was numbered. It has been out since 2011, so your best bet would be check ebay and other auction sites.