teetee580

  • teetee580 posted a new activity comment 8 years ago

    Glad I could be of some help 😀

    It looks like it is behaving like the Vallejo primer, it then surely will harden in the course of a few days. That’s great to hear, no need for crazy or elaborate solutions which may cause more damage then good.
    Should you need any more advice, please let us know 😉
    Good luck and happy building!

  • teetee580 posted a new activity comment 8 years ago

    You’re welcome 😉

    That is the right order indeed.

    In case of your spray can, that means it’s a synthetic Acrylic paint. This means the binder/vehicle (what the paint is made of) is Acrylic based and the solvent (which keeps the paint liquid) is cellulose (lacquer) based.
    In order to sell the product in some countries, they say it’s Acrylic to…[Read more]

  • teetee580 posted a new activity comment 8 years ago

    You’re welcome 😉

    There is a rule, but rules are ment to be broken, LOL
    The types of paint from weakest to strongest are; Water Based Acrylic, Alcohol Based (synthetic) Acrylic, Enamel and Lacquers.
    Rule of thumb is, you can’t put a stronger type of paint on top of a weaker one because it will eat through the paint underneath.
    I found out by…[Read more]

    • As far as I can recollect, this hasn’t been asked before and if it is, no worries 😉
      The problem is, yellow is the dominant color in the color spectrum. The plasticisers in plastic will attract sun rays and collect the yellow rays, oddly enough…
      Even indirect sunlight might discolor the plastic overtime. The only option is to use a clear coat.…[Read more]

      • PS, if the Full Armor set is from Bandai too, it’ll surely be the same white. Not sure if it’s from a third party though…..

      • Rafi replied 8 years ago

        Awesome! Thanks for the advice! 😀

        Just a further query though. I see a lot of different types of coats on the shelves like lacquer, enamel and acrylic coats. If I paint my kit with acrylics, then is there any rule that I must use an acrylic coat and not a lacquer/enamel one?

        Yeah, they are BANDAI kits. Thank you again; was beginning to think I…[Read more]

    • Rafi replied 8 years ago

      Weird.. I could have sworn I responded to this.. :-S

      Thanks for the response and advice! 😀

      Water Based Acrylic < Alcohol Based (synthetic) Acrylic < Enamel < Lacquers

      ^that right? And reverse also 'ok' for layering. Got it! 🙂

      Anyways, I checked my canned lacquer coat and it says '100% Acrylic' below the line that says it's a lacquer coat……[Read more]

      • You’re welcome 😉

        That is the right order indeed.

        In case of your spray can, that means it’s a synthetic Acrylic paint. This means the binder/vehicle (what the paint is made of) is Acrylic based and the solvent (which keeps the paint liquid) is cellulose (lacquer) based.
        In order to sell the product in some countries, they say it’s Acrylic to…[Read more]

  • teetee580 posted a new activity comment 8 years ago

    PS, if the Full Armor set is from Bandai too, it’ll surely be the same white. Not sure if it’s from a third party though…..

  • teetee580 posted a new activity comment 8 years ago

    As far as I can recollect, this hasn’t been asked before and if it is, no worries 😉
    The problem is, yellow is the dominant color in the color spectrum. The plasticisers in plastic will attract sun rays and collect the yellow rays, oddly enough…
    Even indirect sunlight might discolor the plastic overtime. The only option is to use a clear coat.…[Read more]

    • PS, if the Full Armor set is from Bandai too, it’ll surely be the same white. Not sure if it’s from a third party though…..

    • Rafi replied 8 years ago

      Awesome! Thanks for the advice! 😀

      Just a further query though. I see a lot of different types of coats on the shelves like lacquer, enamel and acrylic coats. If I paint my kit with acrylics, then is there any rule that I must use an acrylic coat and not a lacquer/enamel one?

      Yeah, they are BANDAI kits. Thank you again; was beginning to think I…[Read more]

    • You’re welcome 😉

      That is the right order indeed.

      In case of your spray can, that means it’s a synthetic Acrylic paint. This means the binder/vehicle (what the paint is made of) is Acrylic based and the solvent (which keeps the paint liquid) is cellulose (lacquer) based.
      In order to sell the product in some countries, they say it’s Acrylic to…[Read more]

  • teetee580 posted a new activity comment 8 years ago

    True that, true that brother!

  • teetee580 posted a new activity comment 8 years ago

    Finally, Nick has joined the party!!! 😛 Congratulations on your purchase!
    The Tamiya acrylic paints need to be thinned. You can use X-20A or Isopropanol Alcohol. If you choose to use the latter one, make sure it’s at least 90%.
    All paints scratch, so it is advisable to clear all paints….
    There is no problem in using enamels in the airbrush,…[Read more]

  • teetee580 posted a new activity comment 8 years ago

    Sure, anytime 😉

  • teetee580 posted a new activity comment 8 years ago

    Most do a “dry build” before painting. This is done to see where the parts may rub, so you can see where to take some plastic away, or identifying troublesome sections of the kit. So, that’s already done for you. The downside IMO is that I’m a bit of perfectionist when it comes to nubs and due to time constraint, I guess, Syd isn’t too neat with…[Read more]

    • Its the magic of buildig something out of lots of small parts, seeing how it takes shape, while you work your way through the process, which is gone. Even if it is a lot of work cleaning all the parts, it is the most vital part of modelbuilding for me. An these have lost already their virginity. I could also buy actionfigures and paint them. Hehe…[Read more]

  • teetee580 posted a new activity comment 8 years ago

    Looks great! Should you need any advise or information regarding the painting and customization, please let us now 😉

  • teetee580 posted a new activity comment 8 years ago

    It depends what brand/type of primer you have. Some don’t need to be thinned.
    If you got primer by Tamiya (just a wild guess) you need to thin it with cellulose thinner. Any kind will do. You can get the expensive one by Mr. Hobby (the bottle with the blue label), the even more expensive one by Mr Hobby which contains a retarder (blue label with…[Read more]

  • teetee580 posted a new activity comment 8 years ago

    Just as a precaution, the flat base from Tamiya needs to be mixed with a paint or a clear gloss to get a flat finish. These need to be thinned with X20-A or Isopropanol Alcohol (rubbing alcohol >90%).

  • teetee580 posted a new activity comment 8 years ago

    You are absolutely right. Gunpla TV is a big add, and a wonderful one none the less. It’s just a shame people only comment for a free bee. That’s great, if one doesn’t have the funds to buy something. Me, I am a very lucky one that doesn’t need Sid’s hand me downs. It’s just a shame that because of the 500+ comments, the ones that matter, like…[Read more]

  • teetee580 posted a new activity comment 8 years ago

    That’s good news!!! The hair dryer may be set on a higher setting indeed, but a heat gun is designed to strip paint, hence the warning. Nevertheless, happy to hear you got it fixed!
    Good job!!!!!!

  • teetee580 posted a new activity comment 8 years ago

    If you have a hair dryer or a heat gun (lowest setting, you don’t want to melt the plastic) and heat up the effected areas. Don’t keep blowing on the same spot, but move in circulair motions.
    The problem is, you sprayed during a humid day, all the moisture in the air settles on the model and mixes with the air born paint particles. The hot air…[Read more]

    • popoy replied 8 years ago

      thanks bro managed to fix it same style mostly.. I applied another coat then right after it quikly use air dryer but rather lowest setting I’ve put it in the middle.. from 70% frosting in kit to nothing.. yey!

      • That’s good news!!! The hair dryer may be set on a higher setting indeed, but a heat gun is designed to strip paint, hence the warning. Nevertheless, happy to hear you got it fixed!
        Good job!!!!!!

  • teetee580 posted a new activity comment 8 years ago

    If you have a hair dryer or a heat gun (lowest setting, you don’t want to melt the plastic) and heat up the effected areas. Don’t keep blowing on the same spot, but move in circulair motions.
    The problem is, you sprayed during a humid day, all the moisture in the air settles on the model and mixes with the air born paint particles. The hot air…[Read more]

  • teetee580 posted a new activity comment 8 years ago

    Should you run into any trouble, please let us now in the Q/A & Help section

  • teetee580 posted a new activity comment 8 years ago

    Don’t worry, we all had to begin somewhere 😉

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