Gonna try to finish HG Aegis tonight so I can top coat tomorrow. Then will piece together the Blitz now that it’s finally dried. Hopefully tomorrow is nice and dry and I can consider testing some paint for one of my other kits. View
although i don’t have a PG yet, this kit’s presence and detail very much feels like one and i love it! work in slow progress since work has been very busy…[Read more]
Indeed it feels like a PG. It was my second kit, the first was a PG. At first I wasn’t that impressed with the Nu (I didn’t put the frame together like you did, but build it piece by piece) but when it all came together it was awesome! Now I tend to compare all MG’s to the Nu Ver.Ka…….
Hope you enjoy the rest of the build
thanks! i’ll be adding the under side of the feet, backhand covers, thrusters, verniers and other necessary armor panels that are “non-maintenance” and will be displaying it as the frame for a while since i’ll be working on the decals on the outer armors xD
I wish you good luck with those like a million or so decals. If you take your time, it’ll work out fine, I’m sure.
If I may give you a tip, if you don’t have a mark softer, I suggest getting some. It will come in handy for the water slide on the back skirt armor 😉
Hello there experts! Apologies if this has been asked before but how do you paint missile pods in High Grades, those that are molded together? I know it can be done by hand painting but I’d like that to be my last resort. I’m currently painting with spray cans.
Unfortunately hand painting is the way to go for this, unless you want to do a coat of the missile colour then mask each individual missile and paint the base colour over the rest. (or visa versa)
not sure how good reverse wash would work on this but you can give it a try. soak the cotton buds more than what you’d do for a proper reverse wash with the sinanju, for example. this way, the the paint kind of flows down to the base of the pods a little easier and reveal more of the missile pod heads.
It would be tedious but you can use you spray cans. But there still be masking to do and some hand painting. I don’t know if the missile bays and armor parts are separate and if that’s the case you want the inner part of the missile bay a different color then the armor parts. If that’s the case, some more masking must be applied.
Either way, I’d…[Read more]
Assuming you are only talking about that one piece without attached to anything
1) spray the whole piece the color for missiles heads
2) use thinner to thin down the missile base color
3) wet the missile base
4) pour (drop by drop) thinned base color on the base. make sure the piece is flat
5) let it dry
This ‘wash on steroids’ type of technique will be definitely useful on the pods for the Lightning BWS as it is a separate piece. However, it will be more difficult for those in the HG G-Self Assault Pack as it is one solid cavity.
Personally I let them dry for one hour before putting on a setting solution and let that dry for one to two hours before spraying on a top coat. In your case, if wanting to use a setting solution like “Mark Softer” please first try it on a runner, so it won’t mess up the gold plating.
There are however people who let them dry for 24 hours before…[Read more]
Hey all, I just bought a Wing Zero Honoo and I’m looking into wiring it with LEDs (great candidate due to all the clear parts). I was wondering what kind of LED’s would be best to use for the Honoo’s size, and what gauge of wire I can use to make life easier. Stuff locally available that would seem suitable would be 3mm white LED’s (which costs…[Read more]
As a formal injection mold engineer and according to Bandai’s history on Unicorn MG, it’s almost guarantee to see a PG Banshee. Most engineering and tooling are done. If they decide to release a novel version, they’ll just need to provide the forehead pieces, for OVA regular version, the different are the armed VN and BS, and the forehead and…[Read more]
I suggest using a water based clear gloss. Vallejo makes one. Please don’t use an acrylic by Tamiya or MrHobby, as they are alcohol based!
First spray on two very light coats, where the product leaves a “grainy” effect. The last coat may be an all covering/thicker one as the gold parts and decals are sufficiently coated to protect them from any…[Read more]
For smaller decals, due to smaller sticky surface area, you can try Mr. Mark Setter as well. Since Phenex has a special coating on it, I would try the Mr. Mark Setter on one of the runners first, to ensure it doesn’t damage the coating.
Indeed it feels like a PG. It was my second kit, the first was a PG. At first I wasn’t that impressed with the Nu (I didn’t put the frame together like you did, but build it piece by piece) but when it all came together it was awesome! Now I tend to compare all MG’s to the Nu Ver.Ka…….
Hope you enjoy the rest of the build
thanks! i’ll be adding the under side of the feet, backhand covers, thrusters, verniers and other necessary armor panels that are “non-maintenance” and will be displaying it as the frame for a while since i’ll be working on the decals on the outer armors xD
I wish you good luck with those like a million or so decals. If you take your time, it’ll work out fine, I’m sure.
If I may give you a tip, if you don’t have a mark softer, I suggest getting some. It will come in handy for the water slide on the back skirt armor 😉
I have one too, hehehe enjoy building it, which I took about 6 months to finish hahaha
thanks! and yeah the decals are overwhelming!