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  • OniMun posted an update in the group Group logo of Airbrush and Gunpla!Airbrush and Gunpla! 8 years, 6 months ago

    Hi guys! I am new here and am so excited to be a part of such a wonderful community! First off, I just bought the 1/144 RG Strike Freedom Gundam and it is fantastic! Now I know that this is a common issue with anyone who has ever bought a Strike Freedom Gunpla kit in any of it’s grades and I have done some research on it but, I still have to ask. How do you paint the inner frame to make it look as shiny as it’s electo plated dragoons?
    I have read up on chrome painting the parts and then a layer of a mix of 90% clear yellow and 10% clear orange. I have talked with other people about the topic and they say that too many layers on small kits isn’t good. It could stiffen the joints and parts won’t attach well once assembled. Others say use a gold metallic color but, apparently that gold color won’t look like the dragoons.
    I am trying to find a proper painting guide for this. I am also confused on the types of paint. I know of a supplier in my area who sells Mr. Hobby lacquer based paint and i am not sure if lacquer paint could damage my kit in some way. Should i use the said paint or should i go with acrylic? Also would using the standard Mr. Hobby top coats be effective on top of the lacquer paint? i have read that it is acrylic based and the acrylic based top coats are the only types available in my area as well.
    Wow that was a lot of info to drop on you guys. I am sorry if it is annoying and i a pretty sure you guys have talked about this time and time again. I would greatly appreciate your help though.Any input on the topic would be great. Heck, link me to info if you can.
    Thank you and more power to Gunpla and model kits! 😀

    • mr hobby is basically THE paint to go its how all gundam color guides are based on u may want to use a laquer base top coat if u can for enamel panel line wash and basically if u want the gold shininess u need alcalad colors first take alcalad gloss black as ur primer then spray up the alca chrome and then use ur clear yellow u can use chrome powder for more shine but thats more money and also concerning laquer paints if u spray it on it should be fine for the armor in my opinion if ur worried on brittleness id use acrlyics for the frame usually and then top coat then use laquer for the outside armor

      • Wow this was really helpful! Thank you so much!!

        A few questions. So I should a lacquer based top coat over non lacquer paint? Wouldn’t that kill the paint since lacquer is stronger?

        • it should be fine but to make sure u dont want to ruin the paint underneath let the paint cure for many many hours

          • How about this.
            Lacquer based
            1. alclad black gloss
            2. Alcald powder chrome
            3. Mr. Aqueous Hobby color clear yellow
            4. Mr. Hobby top coat gloss

            Would that layering work given the different types of paint?

            • The alclad paints are lacquer based and the mr hobby paint and top coat are water/acrylic based.

              Also would an acrylic top coat effect a water based paint job?

              • Also is Alclad chrome powder available in a can or bottle? Also does it require buffering to be shiny or is it automatically shiny? I need chrome paint that doesn’t require buffering since it’s near to impossible to buff the inner frame of the strike freedom.

                • Hello @Christian. The Alclad Black gloss is enamel based. And the chrome from Alclad isn’t a powder, it’s a liquid paint. I’m not sure if it’s a lacquer. It is only available in a bottle.
                  Also you’ll need an aqua gloss on top of the Alclad chrome. At least, that’s the information given on the bottle Aqua Gloss by Alclad. This is not stated on their website, strangely enough. It is also recommended to use the Aqua Gloss before applying an other paint on top of it. I didn’t, and as long as you first spray two fine mists of the clear yellow on top of it, you’ll be fine. A too heavy coat can eat through the chrome. I’ll have some pictures on the “What are you building” group tomorrow of my painted gold with Alclad chrome and 90 percent Tamiya clear yellow and 10 percent Tamiya clear orange. This can give you an idea on how it will turn out. The number of coats are also very important. Too much, and it won’t look gold at all.
                  For the order of layering the paints:
                  -Gloss Black ( Enamel!!!!, brand doesn’t matter, just make sure it’s really glossy)
                  -Alclad II chrome ( only spray it on really lightly, too much and it will turn silver. You don’t need to buff it, but some people get some dust from the paint itself on it. It can easily be wiped off with a soft rag or cotton ball)
                  -Alclad II Aqua Gloss (If you don’t want to take any chances)
                  -Mr Hobby clear yellow
                  -Any type of gloss, as long as you let the clear yellow dry for at least 2 days at room temperature. If you should choose to put on a lacquer based top coat, keep the airbrush as far away as you can for the first 2 really thin coats. The third can be a normal one. This also goes for an enamel based top coat. An water or alcohol based top coat will be no problem.
                  By the way, Tamiya and Mr Hobby are alcohol based. Vallejo ans Alclad II Aqua Gloss are a true water based ones.
                  I hope this helps out. If you have any more questions, just let me know. Happy building!