So today had me working on my gundam tryon 3 for a friend of mine and I have to say the kit has impressed me so far. Looking forward to painting this one once I finish my degree at university. View
I have yet to get a mask, but I paint with Tamiya acrylics so it’s not as big of a risk as the enamel stuff…Although you don’t want to breath in anything really, you should use the masks that have filters on them.
Ventilation depends on your setup, in my home made booth case, it’s flush against the screen door with the box exhaust fan cranked…[Read more]
Hi guys, so I finally decided to go all out and get an airbrush and compressor. As far as cleaning goes, how do most people do it? I’ve heard to spray thinner through the brush with enamel and lacquer. I’ve also heard to use water in some cases (i’d assume acrylics maybe?)
For cleaning, first use a paper towel or something to wipe out the bowl, then onto the thinner to clean out the rest. You can use thinner (Alclad airbrush cleaner works very very well), or water+windowlene or pre-made “airbrush cleaner”. Water does work, but it can often not be strong enough to get some paints thoroughly removed.
I’d get a “I don’t care” kit to practise on at first. I did that, then dived right into PG Red Frame Astray 🙂 It doesn’t take too long to get the hang of the airbrush, and from then on it’s great fun. I wish I’d done it years ago….
Other thing to do is invest in some clips to hold your parts – alligator clips on wood skewers works great.
Another trick for backwash is to slightly loosen the front of the airbrush. Don’t take it off completely, just about half-way, and that has the same effect as putting your finger over the end. If you need to do an extended backwash, this is less tiring.
As GN said, dump the remaining paint (if you want to keep it) into a jar, I always backwash the airbrush, since the Tamiya paints seem to clog up after a couple of sessions, and depending on what type of needle it uses, I pull the needle through the front after taking the nozzle apart saves dragging paint and gunk through the airbrush into places…[Read more]
Badger or iwata would be your go-to brands. High quality, silent, and will last for years, as long as you dont abuse them.
something with a tank is preferable to something with out one.
Stay away from compressors meant for pneumatic tools; these will usually have 1/4 connectors, a high max PSI of 80-200 (you’ll only ever need 12-20psi) and will…[Read more]
Im from the U.S would like to take the punge into airburshing gunpla kits. So I got a few questions for you guys.
What airbrush kit do you guys recommend to start out? I live in an apartment complex with roommates so something doesnt make that much noise would be good. I have budget of $100-150.
The Iwata neo is a good first brush. They can be found for $40-$60. I wouldnt recommend those really cheap $20 you see on ebay, they are the lowest quality and break quickly.
As for a compressor, one of those “master” brand compressors from amazon or ebay is about the only one you’ll find in your budget unless you buy used. Its very quiet so it…[Read more]
Sorry for the late reply but thanks for the tips. I appreciate it. Also is it better to build the gunpla first and then break it down to do the priming or do it by sections.
Get some alligator clips and bamboo skewers, makes for easy parts holding.
just be careful not to get any paint your balcony, or you might not get your deposit back.
anyone here who lives in canada?
tamiya primers are pretty expensive here and airbrush sprayed primers are hard to find. im looking for alternative primers that i can use. anyone?