Recently finished, 1/20 scale motorcycle…thing…
Inspired by the Acid Buffer Zone of Masahiro Ito of Silent Hill fame.
Kitbashed/scratchbuilt from various models, most…
THANKS, I THINK. MAYBE I SHOULD HAVE SHOWN A BEFORE PIC TO SHOW WHAT IT LOOKED LIKE OUT OF THE BOX. I WAS GOING FOR A H&K MP5 LOOK. I CUT OFF THE MUZZLE BRAKE AND ADDED A SUPPRESSOR. CUT OFF WHAT I THINK WERE SIGHTS, ADDED A GHOST RING SIGHT TO THE FROM AND A HALO SIGHT TO THE REAR. I ADDED A CHARGING HANDLE AND SELRCTOR SWITCH. AND ADDED PANELS…[Read more]
Just a quick figure rise model with minor paint and a Christmas picture for the holidays. The figurise collection are solid models and great fun to build as a break from GUNPLA. Last a WIP on Carta Graze.
Hey ho! Going through my older builds, thought I would show you the Geara Zulu I rattled off. Did this one for funsies, I wanted ot take a break for full repaint builds, so…
Actually there was no sponging on this at all – I used chipping fluid and Ammo Streaking Grime ^_^
I build in subassemblies – on a full paint job that can be a hundred parts on skewers being painted up, but for this build I detailed some bits before assembly, and then weathered the sub-units e.g. legs, arms, torso, head etc. I painted loads of…[Read more]
Chipping Fluid,gives you this result.. I always use a proxxon for chiping and put the fluid back into the box. I have to try it. Actually the two 1/35 scale mechas I built lately are perfect for this. Some tips or technics?
The trick is you are using enamels over the chipping fluid, not acrylics. Basically, spray on your chipping fluid as normal, then AS SOON as it is dry, I sprayed over a light coat of Ammo by Mig Streaking Grime (enamel). Then AS SOON as that is on the model, gently work over the streaking grime with a brush moistened in water, and it hopefully…[Read more]
I see Isee. So it is just the streaking you create with this technic. I thought the actuall chipping too. But this was made by drybrushing. But I found some other ejtertaining Playlists in your channel. I have an unpainted Stein on my shelf and a few Ideas in my head. Maybe your budgetbuild is giving me some insoirations. I would have all the…[Read more]
The Mig stuff is just really nice to use for weathering – it’s what Mig is known for. AK Interactive have similar products (Mig Jimenez used to work for them before he left to set up Ammo by Mig) and essentially they are designed for specific weathering effects so that you don’t have to make your own by mixing or thinning enamel paints. I haven’t…[Read more]
I have a c9mplete set of artist oil colors and always wanted to to try using it as washes. But as someone said… now you have to wait for at least 5!days… I lost all my interrest .. 😀
Never used Mig stuff, but I like the idea of having a metalball in the bottle. Vellejo has also a hughe set of effect and weathering paints. And far bejond.…[Read more]
Hey folks! Thought you might like to see my recently completed 1/60 No Grade Strike, all painted up with acrylics, enamels, oils, and Mr Metal Colours for the frame. A fun build, if a little basic in the kit features. It’s not a PG but a little effort make make a fine cabinet filler ^_^
This is one serious build. In that scale you can go completely nuts with the paintjob. Surely took some tike, but the result is more that sattisfying. Great one!
The long combined axes looks cool but unfortunately due to the wrist guard, there’s not much posing options-they should have made the whole forearm rotateable to solve that and guessing by the pictures on the box, I’m sure they realised that too!
The axes lighting up in the Shield together with a Light up saber. I’ve made provisions to light up everything at the same time! As for the cables I think that if I use a dark background and arrange them properly, they won’t be that noticeable!
I’m quite pleased I was able to keep the distinct circle of the mono-eye. How I did it? I painted the clear part with black except the back(where the LED is placed) and the front.
I used the 0603 SMDs. I used tweezers held by elastic bands to hold the SMDs firmly then bluetacks to hold the wires in place while soldering. It can be quite tricky. All the best!