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Jet posted a new activity comment 9 years ago
Thanks for the tips. I’ve also read that dark gray markers should be used for the white parts, such as the legs. Is that correct? Also, this might be unrelated, but do you know of any way to remove dry decals? I’ve put one in the wrong spot by accident.
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Jet posted a new activity comment 9 years ago
Thanks.
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Jet posted a new activity comment 9 years ago
I’m glad to hear that. Thanks.
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Jet posted an update in the group
Gundam Forums 9 years agoIs top-coating necessary?
I’ve decided that I’d like to paint my MG Heavyarms with markers. I’ve done a bit of reading, and I think that the wipe-off type Gundam Markers are what I’m looking for. The problem is that every guide I read says to apply a top coat afterwards. What would happen if I didn’t? I don’t want to do anything fancy, I just…[Read more]
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If you’re just panel lining, a top-coat isn’t really necessary. A top coat (either flat or gloss) is meant to protect underlying paint and waterslide/dry-transfer decals. Panel lining by itself isn’t something that gets damaged often unless you’re purposely trying to get rid of said panel lines.
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I’m glad to hear that. Thanks.
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Top coat will seal your marker in so it won’t rub off. A flat top coat will take the plastic sheen off the kit and make it look more “real”. If you’re using stickers or water-slides a good gloss coat works well to ensure good smooth adhesion and lack of visible edges. You can then follow up with a flat coat.
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Thanks.
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The red real touch is what you want for lining the orange parts. As for the top coat, it’s mostly for aesthetics if you’re not going to be painting the kit. Dry transfer decals tend to stay on pretty well, but, if you’re concerned about them accidentally getting scraped off, you can use a top coat to protect them. Water slides are crap, so use a…[Read more]
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Forgot to mention the obvious: a brown lining marker is what you want for lining the red parts.
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Thanks for the tips. I’ve also read that dark gray markers should be used for the white parts, such as the legs. Is that correct? Also, this might be unrelated, but do you know of any way to remove dry decals? I’ve put one in the wrong spot by accident.
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That’s the downside to dry transfers. Once they’re placed, they’re not going anywhere. As far as the markers go, the grey lining marker is usually used for white parts, but some people prefer the less subtle, higher contrast look of black panel lining on white parts. But as a general rule, ultra fine brown is for red, ultra fine grey is for white,…[Read more]
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Should be (GM04 & GM05)
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You can get more tips by going to Gundaminfo’s youtube channel and watching Master Kawaguchi’s Fun to Build Gunpla videos. It’s a great learning tool.
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Jet posted an update in the group
Gundam Forums 9 years ago -
Jet changed their profile picture 9 years, 1 month ago
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Jet changed their profile picture 9 years, 1 month ago
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Jet posted a new activity comment 9 years, 1 month ago
Thanks for your reply. I think I’ll go with the MG Dom.
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Jet posted a new activity comment 9 years, 1 month ago
What is flash?
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Model kits are made by injecting plastic into steel molds. The molds are usually two big halves that come together – “flash” occurs when the molds don’t fit together quite the way they should. Injected plastic is no longer confined to where it should be, and fills in some of the thin space between the mold halves, forming thin chips of plastic…[Read more]
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Jet posted a new activity comment 9 years, 1 month ago
Thanks for your reply. I think I’ll go for the MG.
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Jet posted an update in the group
Gundam Forums 9 years, 1 month agoDom: HG, RG, or MG?
Hi, everyone. I’ve finally completed my second kit (MG Sandrock) and would like to build a Dom or Rick Dom next. I only have experience with MG kits, but I think I’d like to try an HG or RG one this time. What are your opinions of the Dom kits? Thank you in advance.
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Just to inform you, there is no RG Dom. If you are looking at a HG or MG of it for that matter, they won’t be the same quality as the Sandrock and other recent kits. The articulation will be sorely lacking in the HG, and expect foil seals for some color apps. I suggest looking at more recent kits than the Doms, but if you really want one I…[Read more]
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Thanks for your reply. I think I’ll go for the MG.
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I am currently building the mg and it had been a good build so far however there was a lot of flash on my kit for some reason
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What is flash?
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Model kits are made by injecting plastic into steel molds. The molds are usually two big halves that come together – “flash” occurs when the molds don’t fit together quite the way they should. Injected plastic is no longer confined to where it should be, and fills in some of the thin space between the mold halves, forming thin chips of plastic…[Read more]
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Between the MG and HGUC Dom, I’d say MG. HGUC seems like a pretty good kit, but HG’s usually take some short-cuts and don’t look quite as sharp. Among other things, the MG has a touch of asymmetry in the feet and legs that’s left out of the HGUC.
But if you can find it for a decent price, the 1:60 scale HY2M Rick Dom is a lot of fun. Thing’s a…[Read more]-
Thanks for your reply. I think I’ll go with the MG Dom.
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Jet joined the group
Gundam Forums 9 years, 1 month ago -
Jet became a registered member 9 years, 1 month ago
Jet
Gundam Forums 
That’s the downside to dry transfers. Once they’re placed, they’re not going anywhere. As far as the markers go, the grey lining marker is usually used for white parts, but some people prefer the less subtle, higher contrast look of black panel lining on white parts. But as a general rule, ultra fine brown is for red, ultra fine grey is for white,…[Read more]
Should be (GM04 & GM05)
You can get more tips by going to Gundaminfo’s youtube channel and watching Master Kawaguchi’s Fun to Build Gunpla videos. It’s a great learning tool.