Hi guys ive seen some really cool custom sd gundams around the net where people sorta kitbashed a hg+sd kit and putty. Im really interested in making one so just wondering does anyone know how its done? I would like to have a look at a wip if possible. Here are some…[Read more]
from the looks of it they take the head and chest of the SD and did the rest from HG I think in most cases the arms will probably be a pretty good fit the polycaps in SD and HG are around the same size, connecting the waste however would be more difficult as SD’s tend to use a double ball joint which most HG’s don’t. so the waist assembly is…[Read more]
First link and second link – SD kit + HG kit.
the last link is from a pro builder Keita. You can find his work in wonderexcellent. http://www.wonderexcellence.com/
sorry just seen you don’t want anything too easy lol . If you have built model kits before I would go for a high grade kit , personally I prefer the 1/100 scale as they avoid the really small fidly parts that some of the smaller kits have. If you don’t mind small parts then the 1/144 high grade kits are a good place to start , the newer build…[Read more]
I would say anything SD those are super fun and really simple and as a bonus they don’t take up much space so you can fit a lot more into a smaller space.
Hey guys, going to get myself the Procon Boy WA 0.2mm airbrush to replace my sotar 2020. Just want to get into enamel paints and was wondering if you guys had any recommendations for enamel paints? Iv’e heard good things about the Testors enamel series but was wondering if anyone had any other suggestions.
Thanks in advance guys
is there a reason you want enamel paints in particular? As for brands of enamels I believe Tamiya has some and they’re a really good brand and ofcourse Testors as you’ve mentioned is a good brand as well.
Oh yeah of course – I heard they’re really good paints. And would you recommend a .2mm or a .3mm? I was just wondering because i’ve yet to paint a master grade kit and wasn’t sure if the .2mm will have a large enough spray pattern to have a consistent colour when painted onto large pieces.
well the .2 mm will give you a finer mist which is pretty nice to have however when you start working with Pearl and metallic paints the finer tip is easier to get clogged which can get annoying. as for spray pattern I wouldn’t worry about that too much you can get pretty thick strokes still, actually I’m not even sure if there’s a difference…[Read more]
Hello everyone I have a question:
I read on the net that Mr Color is a special type of acrylic paint and should be thinned with Mr Color thinner. I have some pots of this brand of paint that I didn’t used yet.
I have only Tamiya’s acrylic thinner and my question is can I use this thinner with Mr Color paints?
Thanks in advance for the replies and…[Read more]
you can try it but I doubt it will work. Gunze, the maker of Mr.Color has different lines one of them is Mr Color Aqueous which is an acrylic paint, but the one normally reffered to as Mr.Color is a water based lacquer paint. if however what you do have is Mr Color Aqueous then I suppose it would work, the problem is I have no idea how to tell…[Read more]
It’s Gundam Color pots. I can read Japanese but nothing about the nature of the paint is written on it.
It only says that it’s semi gloss and has some numbers on it, for instance the blue is “Blue 17” and “CG72”.
Gundam color by Mr. Hobby are all lacquer base. But with more experience modeler, they can see there are normal paint color also a gundam color except normal color is lot more cheaper than Gundam color, lol.
And no, Mr. Hobby Acrylic is nothing special, they don’t need special thinner too. It just a market business. You can thinned down with any…[Read more]
gloss finishes can look good on any mobile suit just as much as a matt finish can but it does take a bit more care as gloss coats do show imperfections easier. If you’re not painting and just putting the gloss coat as a finish over the bare plastic, then at the very least I’d recommend giving the entire surface of the plastic a light sanding with…[Read more]
you can do it either way, if you panel line first then the lines will be protected just like the paint but panel lining can also run so make sure it’s completely dry as well before you spary over the kit. If you do the panel lining after the topcoat then the nature of panel lines being that they are indented into the model they should be fine unprotected.
Question. What is the main idea behind a Custom Build Gundam? What are the necessary steps that I should take to be able to create my own Custom Build Gundam and how can I do so? The main frame that I am thinking in using is the Gundam AGE Spallow 1/100 MG the main idea is to make him more animal liKe. If anyone have any ideas or suggestions I…[Read more]
the basic idea of custom gunplay is just altering the model in any manner at all. something as simple as buying Bandai’s builder parts and pasting them onto your model, or as complicated as creating entirely new parts out of sheets of plastic, or molding them from resin, but I get the impression that what your looking for is more along the…[Read more]
oh one more thing don’t restrict yourself to gundam kits, if you steal a part from Zoids kits, since those are animals you could get really good animal looks from that…..that is if you can get it to fit which would be significantly harder than just stealing from other gundam kits.
Steven thanks for the help. It really helps. I might try the Zoids idea. As soon as I manage to do something I will upload pictures. Thanks for the gel.
I’ve heard that metallic Gundam Markers can damage or destroy parts. Has that happened to anyone here? I’ve only used them for tiny parts like v-fins, eyes, and weapon blades, and it seemed to work fine. Can anyone confirm or deny the rumor? Thanks!
If only used the green metallic gundam marker. But haven’t had any problems with it. I mostly used it on clear pieces but never had any damage to the plastic afterwards.
I used the green one only one tiny parts too. But why do you want to use it on big parts?
You better get a Tamiya TS-20 Metallic green or if you’re airbrushing apply a coat of silver then a coat of clear green on it will give you a metallic green effect too.
Hi guys…. i want to ask about the extra part for gunpla where can i order from? like in this picture some part of my gunpla have been lost and broke so i want to fix these. anybody know please reply ASAP thank….
They have instruction in there website on how to order. They need the model kit type and details, runner letter and number of the parts. Some times they cannot buy an specific parts so you have to purchase the whole runner. THey also need the paper stub you got from your kit when you purchase so they can order it on behalf of you.
oh those order have been close…. and the most important is these gundam i got from my friend and i don’t have its box and runner tree. so any other idea? T-T