@syd
Hey syd I figured I would ask you if you would like to become a judge for an upcoming contest I am holding. To celebrate the summer time and to give everybody something fun to enjoy together this year. I don’t really have anything set in stone just yet but I am looking for feedback for what people want to see in a contest and for judges. […] View
It depends what brand/type of primer you have. Some don’t need to be thinned.
If you got primer by Tamiya (just a wild guess) you need to thin it with cellulose thinner. Any kind will do. You can get the expensive one by Mr. Hobby (the bottle with the blue label), the even more expensive one by Mr Hobby which contains a retarder (blue label with…[Read more]
Just as a precaution, the flat base from Tamiya needs to be mixed with a paint or a clear gloss to get a flat finish. These need to be thinned with X20-A or Isopropanol Alcohol (rubbing alcohol >90%).
Hey guys, here’s just one of the many kits I’ve completed. For right now I’m just building, panel lining and adding decals to kits. Looking to start painting and customizing future kits.
Haha, can’t wait to reach the episode, when you really watched the latest StarWars movie and ranting about it. I am at 180, can’t be that long anymore.
can I ask what can I do because I just finished top coating my sazabi ver ka and it has this foggy white marks what can I do to remove them? I’ve used a flat matt top coat.. thanks in advance.
If you have a hair dryer or a heat gun (lowest setting, you don’t want to melt the plastic) and heat up the effected areas. Don’t keep blowing on the same spot, but move in circulair motions.
The problem is, you sprayed during a humid day, all the moisture in the air settles on the model and mixes with the air born paint particles. The hot air…[Read more]
thanks bro managed to fix it same style mostly.. I applied another coat then right after it quikly use air dryer but rather lowest setting I’ve put it in the middle.. from 70% frosting in kit to nothing.. yey!
That’s good news!!! The hair dryer may be set on a higher setting indeed, but a heat gun is designed to strip paint, hence the warning. Nevertheless, happy to hear you got it fixed!
Good job!!!!!!
can I ask what can I do because I just finished top coating my sazabi ver ka and it has this foggy white marks what can I do to remove them? I’ve used a flat matt top coat.. thanks in advance.
If you have a hair dryer or a heat gun (lowest setting, you don’t want to melt the plastic) and heat up the effected areas. Don’t keep blowing on the same spot, but move in circulair motions.
The problem is, you sprayed during a humid day, all the moisture in the air settles on the model and mixes with the air born paint particles. The hot air…[Read more]
Not sure if I’m completely done with this kit or not, but pretty happy with what I’ve got done so far anyway. This is on old HG Serpent Custom from 1998. Here I’ve completely…
That was a serious Battle for sure. You definatly have to do something with the scars. If metal cooles down after beeing red glowing hot, it becomes some kind of a darker blueish grey. I would go for that and maybe keep some of the edges dark red glowing.
Check some lasercuttet industrial metalparts. Outside where the temp wasnt hot enough do melt the metal, it will change the color from the grey directly at the cutting edge to a yellowish brown a bit further away. Hehe depends on how much effort you want to put in it.
With the 3.0 and the origins, there are two 78-2’s without the propper opponent. I am sick of waiting for a new char Zaku. They could switch the whole production to a Zaku V3.0 and people would buy the faster they could build em..
I have to agree with tou the mg Czaku2 needs a new update the tunderbolt has enough to make it fell diff from the 2.0 but still it suffers from a lot of 2.0 zaku issues
I am going through all the episodes atm. And are around episode 150, where the give aways took olace..(why have I found this place not earlier), but what really is funny, is the amount of response to those episodes, compared to times where nothing is for free.
But if you look at the clicks on the episodes. Thats what counts. Mostly People watching the show and thats it. Not everybody is that talkactive and the most just want to see stuff thats comming out, stuff they can’t afford, and how it builds. If they went to hlj right after it.. Jobs done! And if I just wanted to know some Details about a kit, I…[Read more]
You are absolutely right. Gunpla TV is a big add, and a wonderful one none the less. It’s just a shame people only comment for a free bee. That’s great, if one doesn’t have the funds to buy something. Me, I am a very lucky one that doesn’t need Sid’s hand me downs. It’s just a shame that because of the 500+ comments, the ones that matter, like…[Read more]
Most do a “dry build” before painting. This is done to see where the parts may rub, so you can see where to take some plastic away, or identifying troublesome sections of the kit. So, that’s already done for you. The downside IMO is that I’m a bit of perfectionist when it comes to nubs and due to time constraint, I guess, Syd isn’t too neat with…[Read more]
Its the magic of buildig something out of lots of small parts, seeing how it takes shape, while you work your way through the process, which is gone. Even if it is a lot of work cleaning all the parts, it is the most vital part of modelbuilding for me. An these have lost already their virginity. I could also buy actionfigures and paint them. Hehe…[Read more]
It depends what brand/type of primer you have. Some don’t need to be thinned.
If you got primer by Tamiya (just a wild guess) you need to thin it with cellulose thinner. Any kind will do. You can get the expensive one by Mr. Hobby (the bottle with the blue label), the even more expensive one by Mr Hobby which contains a retarder (blue label with…[Read more]