I watched the labor movie, I didn’t get the first time round so I decided to watch the series before watching the movie again. I haven’t seen Kamen Rider is it good.
hlj does ship certain paints mainly the Vallejo line. Those are able to be shipped internationally. That said I’ve never tried them.
For a first time painter I’d recommend just using Tamiya spray paints it’s the easiest route, but be careful of overspray where the paint starts dripping and pooling. From there I’d eventually move to an airbrush…[Read more]
no prob. Tim’s advise is good btw using the enamels for the details. In theory a spary paint is a laquer base, and you can use enamel paints over that and even clean it up with an enamel thinner without harming the laquer (you wanna be careful trying that, I’ve never tested this), and over those you can then use acrylic paints and again be able…[Read more]
I’ve been putting off for a while and I kinda have an idea about how to do but it doesn’t hurt to ask you guys what you’d do. So, How would you go about attaching the ball joint to the hip? I can’t get a good grip with a drill, it keeps sliding off. I was thinking about heating up a nail and making a hole.
So is this a broken part you’re trying to repair?
Best way is to drill straight through and attach the ball joint with a metal pin. Steel sewing pins are pretty good for this sort of thing – they’re tough, reasonably malleable, and easy to come by. They’re tough to cut, though…
If you’re having trouble drilling a hole through the ball joint, you…[Read more]
try go through the end that broke maybe. In other words dripp into the cracked area. it shouldn’t be round there so you shouldn’t have the slipping problem hope that works for you.
What kind of drill are you using? Pin vise? And what size drill bit?
One thing I do when I need to drill at an odd angle, or the bit keeps slipping off target, is I’ll find an angle that’s easy to drill and go with that long enough to get the hole started, then switch to the angle I realy want to drill.
Though now that I think about it, you…[Read more]
Lighting. This is driving me up the wall. I use just a single light desk lamp. The more I look into this the more i see about using multiple light and Hot light… So what is the best was to light up your work station?
don’t know if there is an ideal. If the room is already well lit I’d think that a really good and bright light would be good enough as long as it’s bright enough that you can make out whatever issues with the paint you may have. One thing to keep in mind though is if you can’t see a problem while up close with a good light then someone standing…[Read more]
natural light really is wonderful, till night comes lol. anyways yeah if you can do it by natural light that should be great for spotting errors and also when you use a mica/pearl paint it’s pretty dazzling in the sunlight.
hey guys i am looking for a certain tone of black or gray that is dark enuogh for my kits but it dosent hide the detail and panel lins…any recomandationc ..
tamiya nato black is ok. its not quite black, more a dark green, i’ve used it on inner frames before. looks good and works with a bit of dry brushing after as well.
I use the Krylon Camouflage Ultra Flat Olive color, although it looks more of a dark gray. If you want to private message me your email address Johann I got a couple pictures I can send you. Now if you are looking for something for like an air brush. I use Mr. Color. There are 3 grays in particular depending on the color of the original runner.…[Read more]
cool, I emailed you the couple photos johann. Now as far as the Mr. Color goes, right now I mainly use it to cover up after I shave nub marks, but I hand brush for that. Haven’t tried them in my airbrush yet.
I’d recommend custom mixing your paint if you really want something so specific. Just get some white and black paint and mix till you get the shade you want. This way it will actually be grey and not a dark blue or green.
also I’d like to point out that the frame color that Bandai uses on almost all their kits is 90% neutral grey + 10% black,…[Read more]