Neat. I was thinking of trying that with a HGUC Unicorn I used to have…
Are you gonna paint it? It would look really sharp if the white parts weren’t leaking light…
At last, my greatest work is completed! (My everlasting respect if you get the reference.)
This is my desert custom 1100 Gundam Cheridum with battle damage. This was my first time using a soldering iron on plastic and my first time using custom decals and I admit to accidently goofing (Or rather goufing) some. On the whole I’m really pleased w…[Read more]
My advice is find pre-cut digital masking tape. I used some from HIQ Parts but HLJ has it listed as discontinued. If you take a close look at the legs you will that I used a strip of tape and disguised the edges. You can’t go wrong as long as the camo edges are sharp.
I kind of was thinking of making my own digital pattern, cutting the tape and all but gave up on it. It would take me more time to cut the tape propperly and apply it on the kit than painting the kit itself, top to bottom and back. So I’ll give HLJ a go for some precut digitals. http://www.hlj.com/product/VYMTEZ053/Mil this looks interesting enough though.
I’ll try to build an MG Spallow and make it look “less fugly”. Kind of “Ninja style”. Something down the GI Joe line back in the day when they had techy ninjas and stuff like that.
Sure thing. 😀 Once the kit comes back in stock. Which can take a while because all I hear from others is that no one likes it for it dullness. 😀 As soon as it comes back in stock I’ll get me one and will be posting some photos once it’s done. Doing two in inverted colors of each other would be dirty awesome too. 😀 But, I guess I’ll skip that.…[Read more]
I find that using gloss paints and a flat/matte top coat gives you a better finish. With each reply the space gets narrower and narrower. I guess they didn’t think we be having long conversations. LOL.