I didn’t finish my model for the 2013 plamo contest, so I’ll try again. This time it’s a Wave Gladiator, one of my favorite MaK machines. Required box art and first peek into the box. Now to figure out how to post in the advanced group. It’s been a while. View
As you noted, the Kampfer has really limited eye movement, so the brightness of the light does not change when it is swung to the side. I plan on lighting my Zakus, which may require a different approach as they have a greater range of eye movement. This was my first attempt to light a model so it was all trial and error. I took one…[Read more]
You could also cut the ball and pin from the kit hand you are replacing, and transplant it to the aftermarket hand. Cut the kit pin out with a portion of the hand, which basically gives you a longer pin, trim and sand to match the round pin section, then drill and glue the pin into the aftermarket hand. Does that make sense? I always do this…[Read more]
vCJD also suggested this as an option of using the ball portion and inserting the new hand ball joint into the larger one. The issue with it is the kits hand is that rubber hand and not a solid. Here’s the comparison http://goo.gl/Gs52Ds
I’m playing around with some poly joints can could possible end up wedging those in and securing them with…[Read more]
Hey Orkork, you still there? I got some LEDs if you want. Post some progress piccies! D hasn’t even crossed the start line yet. Gotta make sure the Evil Mad Kao has company come December 30th (remember Japan is one day ahead of us).
A couple more photos from the Kampfer build. The body halves don’t seem to want to match up at the front, so some tabs help line things up. I am still considering filling the join lines between the upper and lower halves, as the original artwork does not have them.
The knee joints are the same as the MG Gouf 2.0 and thus feel flimsy. I added…[Read more]
Slogging along on the Kampfer build. I did a test to see if I could get a movable lit mono eye to work. By drilling out one of the pivot posts for the mono eye holder and gluing a clear sprue stub into the head structure to act as a retainer plus a light conductor, I was able to get indirect light from a LED glued to the top of the clear sprue.…[Read more]
Nice trick with the monoeye. Seems like a really good use of the available space. Though with the clear peg angled the way it is, wouldn’t the amount of light coming out the lens vary depending on the direction the monoeye is pointed? (With the Kampfer’s limited range of monoeye movement it may not matter…)
I’d normally approach something like…[Read more]
As you noted, the Kampfer has really limited eye movement, so the brightness of the light does not change when it is swung to the side. I plan on lighting my Zakus, which may require a different approach as they have a greater range of eye movement. This was my first attempt to light a model so it was all trial and error. I took one…[Read more]
Nutzoids, I haven’t done anything for so long I posted this in the wrong place!
Some progress on the MG Kampfer.
I have started drilling out the armor perforations (aka Izubuchi Holes). The shoulder ball armor will be getting little round inset details using drilled out pin heads. The pin heads are molded plastic, so they have nubs and p…[Read more]
where do you fined braided tubing like that