Sorry if this has been asked before; I suck at using the search function on this site. 🙁
New to gunpla here, and I was wondering if the white on all the Gundam kits yellow with age? All the kits I’ve made are unpainted and I only started to worry about this after making my PG Unicorn and then ordering the Full Armor later; is there any chance…[Read more]
As far as I can recollect, this hasn’t been asked before and if it is, no worries 😉
The problem is, yellow is the dominant color in the color spectrum. The plasticisers in plastic will attract sun rays and collect the yellow rays, oddly enough…
Even indirect sunlight might discolor the plastic overtime. The only option is to use a clear coat.…[Read more]
Just a further query though. I see a lot of different types of coats on the shelves like lacquer, enamel and acrylic coats. If I paint my kit with acrylics, then is there any rule that I must use an acrylic coat and not a lacquer/enamel one?
Yeah, they are BANDAI kits. Thank you again; was beginning to think I…[Read more]
In case of your spray can, that means it’s a synthetic Acrylic paint. This means the binder/vehicle (what the paint is made of) is Acrylic based and the solvent (which keeps the paint liquid) is cellulose (lacquer) based.
In order to sell the product in some countries, they say it’s Acrylic to…[Read more]
It looks like it is behaving like the Vallejo primer, it then surely will harden in the course of a few days. That’s great to hear, no need for crazy or elaborate solutions which may cause more damage then good.
Should you need any more advice, please let us know 😉
Good luck and happy building!
It depends what brand/type of primer you have. Some don’t need to be thinned.
If you got primer by Tamiya (just a wild guess) you need to thin it with cellulose thinner. Any kind will do. You can get the expensive one by Mr. Hobby (the bottle with the blue label), the even more expensive one by Mr Hobby which contains a retarder (blue label with…[Read more]
Just as a precaution, the flat base from Tamiya needs to be mixed with a paint or a clear gloss to get a flat finish. These need to be thinned with X20-A or Isopropanol Alcohol (rubbing alcohol >90%).
can I ask what can I do because I just finished top coating my sazabi ver ka and it has this foggy white marks what can I do to remove them? I’ve used a flat matt top coat.. thanks in advance.
If you have a hair dryer or a heat gun (lowest setting, you don’t want to melt the plastic) and heat up the effected areas. Don’t keep blowing on the same spot, but move in circulair motions.
The problem is, you sprayed during a humid day, all the moisture in the air settles on the model and mixes with the air born paint particles. The hot air…[Read more]
With the 3.0 and the origins, there are two 78-2’s without the propper opponent. I am sick of waiting for a new char Zaku. They could switch the whole production to a Zaku V3.0 and people would buy the faster they could build em..
I have to agree with tou the mg Czaku2 needs a new update the tunderbolt has enough to make it fell diff from the 2.0 but still it suffers from a lot of 2.0 zaku issues
Hey, I’ve been looking to get the MG Zaku Cannon for a few years, but HLJ has had it on backorder for the past 2 years now. Has anyone built or purchased the kit recently? If so, when were you able to get it and what are your thoughts on it?