awesomesauce

  • Windstrike posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 11 years ago

  • Windstrike posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 11 years ago

  • masterDS64 posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 11 years ago

    Hi, got another question?

    Ok, clear plastic…say in yellow, can I change this to another color easily WHILE RETAINING TRANSPARENCY or will this cause problems ie color mixing?

    • vCJD replied 11 years ago

      Depends, what colour you want it to be?
      You could try a permanent marker or something like a Tamiya Clear paint, but the underlying yellow will cause interference. Best look at a colour chart, pigment not light, to see if there is a colour that will work.
      Might be a bit of trial and error though, so test on the sprue.

  • kidd0218 posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 11 years ago

    Another questions guys, had alot of help my last one. Thanks!

    I recently bought a Satin finish from Vallejo, before this, I’ve only used Matte finish on all of my Gundams. Until, I came across the term silvering. I’ve only notice some of it on my models, but most of the time I don’t.

    The question is, will a Satin finish, help prevent silvering…[Read more]

    • tbh, the Only way to prevent silvering is to apply a gloss coat, decal then flat/satin coat over.

      decals of anytype work best on a perfectly smooth surface, where flat and satins to get thier look are actually microscopic pittied coats, hense not flat.

      so what you need to do is 1 gloss, apply decals then Flat/satin coat parts. Silvering is when…[Read more]

    • Maybe you can try to let the paint to cure for about 24 hour and then apply your decals and then let your decals dry for another 24 hours for it to be completely dry before flat top coating it. As you know, moisture affects the paint job even top coats. I’ve also learned from other tutorials that humid temperature has an effect on paint. I’m not…[Read more]

    • satin is about the same as matt. as the other’s have said you’ll want to use the gloss, apply the transfer then seal with whatever finish you want and that’s the finish you’ll have. a matt or satin finish over a gloss coat will cancel the glossiness.

  • superxvegito posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 11 years ago

    Hey guys. I was wondering if anyone had a good alternative for a parts separator. I heard guitar picks work OK until they just end up bending out of shape.

    Currently I have been using my hobby knife but only for the small mistake or two. I ask because I am in the process of test building my HG Freedom, I would prefer to not risk cutting any of…[Read more]

  • GhosT Quanta posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 11 years ago

    anyone has any experience with Vallejo model colour paints?
    I’m interested in the Model Colour Professional Quality Paint Set on hlj http://www.hlj.com/product/VLJ70178/Sup
    to get started on a bit of hand painting. anyone else ever used these? if so what do you think about them? I read that you can just thin them with regular water. in what ratio…[Read more]

    • Primer is always best to start with. I use the vallejo range for hand painting and i use their model air range for airbrushing and they are awesome. Thinning down will most likely be a personal preference for most people as it can depend on the effect and/or result you are after. just experiment and see how you go, tho i do find that even the…[Read more]

      • thanks for the info man 🙂 to bad I can’t get any primers like Tamiya or mr. color and such here 🙁

        • if you cant get your hands on the sprays, try airbrushing. vallejo sell a grey primer for the model air range and its pretty good. starting out with airbrushing can be pricey but in the long run its better, i’m not great but its really fun doing it. and its not to hard to learn how.

    • vCJD replied 11 years ago

      If you have a Games Workshop near you, they do spray paint, used to be just black and white but there is a small selectuon of colours now, and they make a spray matt top coat called purity seal.
      You can never thin your paints too much! You can always paint more layers. Also if you can afford too, use a paint medium rather than water to thin your…[Read more]

      • thanks for al the info man 🙂 to bad there aren’t any game workshop or any
        model building shops around where I live so I have to order everything online 🙁
        well maybe I can still find some mineral water somewhere xD

        • vCJD replied 11 years ago

          Np. Tip to priming with just the acrylic paint, thin it down to about 1:5 (paint/whatever you’re thinning with) should give a translucent coat almost a wash. Do 3/4 layers like this will spread the pigment evenly, giving a smoother finish. Again time consuming as you have to let each layer dry. thoroughly, but much better than just plonking on 1…[Read more]

    • vCJD replied 11 years ago

      P.p.s. Use different brushes and water pots for normal paint and metallic paint, to prevent cross contamination.
      This has happened to me arrgh 🙁
      Hand painting can be a lengthy process to get really good results, bur very satisfying 🙂

  • MYK1997 posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 11 years ago

    I need some help guys. One of the peg that allow armor split on my RG GP01 Fb just snapped. I mod the peg a bit just to put it back in his place. But now, I can’t even do an 135 decree knee bent. What should I do?

    DSC_0452[1]
    • there’s a few ways to go about this situation. You could replace the part which is easier said than done outside of japan. You could find a pose you really like and glue it into that pose. You could attempt a repair, judging from the pic you posted pinning maybe the way to go. you can just live with it. or the final option You could turn your…[Read more]

      • I could but it’s for the beginner section of the competition. So, I can’t rly mod. Therefore, it’s costy to buy a drill and the metal rod to fix it. I’m rly not sure of it cuz that plastic is weak.

  • MYK1997 posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 11 years ago

  • masterDS64 posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 11 years ago

    Hello again, im thinking of making a custom hg using these 2 kits, my plan, qubeley shoulders and or arms, or just a head swap of nobel to qubeley, question-any of these kits compatible with each other (not just those i mentioned)?

    • tldr wanted to try my first kit bash and a friend gave me the only idea I got…not my primary choice but I could make this good if done right XD

      • hg kits don’t use a whole lot of different polycaps so most of the joints are very similar connection wise.

        I don’t know about those two kits in particular but my guess would be that you could peg the pieces in easily enough without modification but then to get a snug fit you’d need to trim plastic.

        this is only a guess though.

  • masterDS64 posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 11 years ago

  • ZakuYuubari78 posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 11 years ago

    And will it work for tamiya paint

  • ZakuYuubari78 posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 11 years ago

    Is testors brand enamel primer reliable?

    • It’s not bad and works in a pinch, it is pretty durable & yes it works with Tamiya. Next time i suggest just commenting on your own question. otherwise you’ll get a disconnect in your posts

  • hitokiri89 posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 11 years ago

    Not really sure if this goes here but , any one else having problems posting in other groups ? Im in the intermediate contest and sometimes i can post and others theres no dialog box . Contacted hlj twice but no responce .

    • I believe @Ryan commented on this and thier working on it but it’s being elusive as to what’s causing this glitch

    • The Upload and comments are working….but the Dialog box or posting box now is impossible to find….i guess we will have to wait on them to find out what is the issue.

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