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  • RedVal89 posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 8 years, 10 months ago

    I finish painted my kit, now I wanted to proceed to panel lining ( and after panel lining is decals), I just want to clarify that after painting , what should be going first, clear coat then paneling then clear coat, then decals then final flat coat? or clear coat all the way? or flat coat all the way? because I’m wondering about problems with flat coat (like blistering effect) especially cold weather and decaling.

    • First apply a gloss clear coat on the paint job. A gloss is smoother for better flowing panel lines and more dense and harder making it safer to remove excess paint from the panel lining.
      I can’t stress this enough: don not use a water based acrylic for this like Vallejo or Model Master.
      Best to use a alcohol based one like Tamiya or Mr Color. Depending on what paint you used, a lacquer could also be used, this is the strongest, but could eat through the paint.
      I suggest reading 2 posts down, the one from “thebanshee13” for any more help on thinning and top coating as to using various sorts of paint, coats and thinning agents can ruin your paint job.
      Second on top of the panel lines use another clear gloss top coat. This is to cancel out the risk of the silvering effect of the decals. Especially water slide decals. Silvering is when you get a glossy/shiny surface under the decal, which shows the edges of the decal thus making it really look like a sticker on top of your paint.
      Third if you worry about frosting or blistering of the mat clear coat, spray a gloss clear coat first. This will act sort of like a primer. Then you could spray on very light coats of mat clear on it until you get the desired effect. Maybe 3 or 4 thin coats will do.
      A good tip for when you are using spray cans is to put them in a bucket with warm water and let them sit for a few minutes until the can is warm, but cool enough to handle though.
      This will result in a much better flow of the paint, by warming up the propellant the pressure in the can raises, therefor spraying the paint out at a higher velocity. And a plus, the paint will dry slightly quicker.
      Hope this helps you out. If you’ve got more questions, feel free to ask them

      • thanks 🙂 how about I made a mistake by spraying flat coat to the paint job, can I spray clear coat over it?or how can i remove (flat coat) it?

        • I never tried it… But flat clear has a milky sheen to it. This is because there is a little white pigment in there. So my guess is no.
          The only way to take of the flat coat without ruining your paint job is to sand it of, which can take a lot of time…
          If you don’t worry about your paint job, you can leave it over night in oven cleaner, windex (or an other window cleaner with ammonia in it) or chlorine.
          You can then wipe it of with a tissue or rinse it of with clear water.
          But this will take of the paint too.
          The other way around is no problem. A flat clear coat on top of a gloss clear coat will give a mat finish

          • ok thanks again, but does removing clear coat over night in oven cleaner, windex, or window cleaner with amonia or clorine can damage the plastic? but if not, i will try this . . .

            • You’re welcome.
              I’m sure chlorine won’t damage the plastic. I’ve seen it with my own eyes.
              The other options for taking the paint off are tried by Syd, so he says on GunplaTV. It also won’t effect the plastic

    • Thanks man, this will really help me alot!!!