Best way to minimize streaking when hand-brushing is to thin your paint properly and paint a few coats. Each individual coat will be uneven and full of brush-strokes, but over 3-4 coats it’ll even out.
Using a fine brush to paint large areas just seems needlessly time-consuming… Big brushes are for big areas, fine brushes are for details.
Handbrushing is still a challenge for me since I don’t do it much any more (I’ve had an airbrush for years) – but I think it’s an under-valued skill among Gundam modelers. It has its benefits, like having precise control over the paint without resorting to masking. With Gundam kits we tend to rely on the parts separation to paint most of the different colors without masking, but I’ve seen some build videos (building tanks and stuff) where they pretty much just stuck the whole model together and painted everything with just the airbrush and handpainting to recolor a few areas… I think about what it would take to mask such an area and airbrush it and it makes me feel like I should practice my hand-brushing instead. 🙂
oh and the primer helped heaps! had a matt surface and was the paint adhered better, i found painting straight onto the plastic was more hard and caused alot of streaking! practoce makes perfect, but yeah! air brush!! too tiring! all the little bits that were hard to reach … and me being a perfectionist ! T^T;
ive found with light colors especially white, which is easily the hardest color to paint something, that hand painting is almost a necessity, im sure with an airbrush the world is bright and peachy lol but with spray cans white was hard in my experience to the point i ended up handpainting over it
Handpainting this took 20 hours of your time. Airbrushing would take an hour, or less, depending on the paint you use. Just sayin. 😛 Bottom line, if you’re not going to quit this hobby in a month, investing in an airbrush won’t save you much money but will save you a LOT of time. And it’s easy to get a “pro” result with a wide cover paint job like you have here. Take my advice. Next two big kits you wanted to get, scratch them off of a list and get an air brush. Two or three more and you’re all set to get some nice semi-pro done mecha displayed on your shelf. Heck, your shipping alone for your “fridge” costed you as much as one good air brush. 😛
http://www.hlj.com/product/AIWHP-CS/Sup I just bought that one some two weeks ago. It should be crossing my doorstep in a day or two so I’ll be able to judge about it later on. However, I’ve heard from a lot of people that it’s one of the best, if not the best all-rounder there is. It’s not that expensive, the quality’s high, performance too, for a novice anyway. You could do pretty much everything with this guy. From wide spread painting of big areas to thin 0.3mm lines.
As for the compressor for these guys, I’m a bit short on thoughts about those. There were some talks that a spare car tyre works wonders here. Made me raise a brow or two in disbelief but apparently it’s working perfectly. Right to the point where the tyre deflates that much that the pressure for your brush is too low but you just take your tyre/wheel and blow some air in it and it’s usable again. No joke, as much as it sounds like one.
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Handpainted?? Wow, I could never do it right on the bigger pieces… I’d get streak marks
it took me no joke 20hrs to hand paint these ( 3 coats each ) I used a very fine brush to minimise streaks and i added thinner to make it smooth. 🙂
Best way to minimize streaking when hand-brushing is to thin your paint properly and paint a few coats. Each individual coat will be uneven and full of brush-strokes, but over 3-4 coats it’ll even out.
Using a fine brush to paint large areas just seems needlessly time-consuming… Big brushes are for big areas, fine brushes are for details.
Handbrushing is still a challenge for me since I don’t do it much any more (I’ve had an airbrush for years) – but I think it’s an under-valued skill among Gundam modelers. It has its benefits, like having precise control over the paint without resorting to masking. With Gundam kits we tend to rely on the parts separation to paint most of the different colors without masking, but I’ve seen some build videos (building tanks and stuff) where they pretty much just stuck the whole model together and painted everything with just the airbrush and handpainting to recolor a few areas… I think about what it would take to mask such an area and airbrush it and it makes me feel like I should practice my hand-brushing instead. 🙂
yeah, definitely buying one!
is this 0ne good ? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Professional-1-6HP-Air-Brush-Compressor-Nail-Art-Make-Up-Kit-Stencil-Spray-Gun-/350770171493?pt=AU_Toys_Hobbies_Model_Kits&hash=item51ab880e65
oh and the primer helped heaps! had a matt surface and was the paint adhered better, i found painting straight onto the plastic was more hard and caused alot of streaking! practoce makes perfect, but yeah! air brush!! too tiring! all the little bits that were hard to reach … and me being a perfectionist ! T^T;
We want more close-ups!
😉
nicely done sister 🙂
thanks buddy! 🙂
ive found with light colors especially white, which is easily the hardest color to paint something, that hand painting is almost a necessity, im sure with an airbrush the world is bright and peachy lol but with spray cans white was hard in my experience to the point i ended up handpainting over it
agreed!
Handpainting this took 20 hours of your time. Airbrushing would take an hour, or less, depending on the paint you use. Just sayin. 😛 Bottom line, if you’re not going to quit this hobby in a month, investing in an airbrush won’t save you much money but will save you a LOT of time. And it’s easy to get a “pro” result with a wide cover paint job like you have here. Take my advice. Next two big kits you wanted to get, scratch them off of a list and get an air brush. Two or three more and you’re all set to get some nice semi-pro done mecha displayed on your shelf. Heck, your shipping alone for your “fridge” costed you as much as one good air brush. 😛
Hey Daniel , can you link me to affordable air brush ^^
http://www.hlj.com/product/AIWHP-CS/Sup I just bought that one some two weeks ago. It should be crossing my doorstep in a day or two so I’ll be able to judge about it later on. However, I’ve heard from a lot of people that it’s one of the best, if not the best all-rounder there is. It’s not that expensive, the quality’s high, performance too, for a novice anyway. You could do pretty much everything with this guy. From wide spread painting of big areas to thin 0.3mm lines.
BUT don’t take my word for it. It’s like it is with cars. Some would swear by this and others would swear by that. Here’s a complete Iwata line at HLJ http://www.hlj.com/scripts/hljlist?Maker1=AIW&cl=1&DisplayMode=images&Dis=2&Sort=std&qid=RA2CGNKVMQ&set=1&MacroType2=airbrush
Other brand you could and should look for is Badger. Both of these have nice, mid-range brushes that perform real well. Browse ebay for some Badgers but they tend to be a bit cheaper than Iwatas.
http://www.bearair.com/PEAK-C-3-Gravity-Feed-Airbrush/productinfo/100338/ I’ve read this is a nice Iwata clone. Cheap, reliable and really well made. I was going for this one instead but jumped a level in the last moment and decided to go for Iwata in the end.
As for the compressor for these guys, I’m a bit short on thoughts about those. There were some talks that a spare car tyre works wonders here. Made me raise a brow or two in disbelief but apparently it’s working perfectly. Right to the point where the tyre deflates that much that the pressure for your brush is too low but you just take your tyre/wheel and blow some air in it and it’s usable again. No joke, as much as it sounds like one.
I agree with Daniel. Spray or Airbrushing will give a better result but in the end, it’s a matter of preference.
Looking good @leehobby!
thank you 🙂