• CHROME MACHINE!! Update #9: Completion! and Final Entry

    The gloss coat (Alclad’s Aqua Gloss) sprayed on a little too softly the first coat, and the base coat of black could have been much smoother on a lot of parts, but it was very fun working with all the chrome that I used and especially wiping all the parts down with that Q-tip and seeing my face staring back at me every time.
    I’m a little sad that the hips don’t have as dynamic a range as I was hoping for, CHROME MACHINE!! is a wild berserker and I would have liked for the legs to express that as much as the arms do.
    Overall it was still very fun and gave me some much needed practice in removing seams. Plus, it looks every bit as awesome as the idea I’ve had floating in my head for years always did.

  • CHROME MACHINE!! Update #8: Chroming Final Stage

    The remaining portions of armor, the Plavsky Sparkle Super Armor, have received a coat of 1 part Alclad II Chrome and 3 parts Alclad II Holomatic Spectral Chrome.
    As you can see even with the Chrome filling in the gaps the HSC is quite grainy. I should have gone with a 1:2 blend, but the prismatic effect would have too subtle.
    The monosensor has also been given a quick spray of Tamiya Clear Red for that focused batle-hardened stare.

  • CHROME MACHINE!! Update #7: Chroming Stage 2

    A much more noticeable difference.
    After much time spent carefully masking, remember to wipe down all exposed areas. Alclad II Chrome paint WILL leave underlying fingerprints visible.

  • CHROME MACHINE!! Update #6: Chroming Stage 1

    With the base enamel coat cured, I took the opportunity to lay down the base coats of chrome on most parts that with not have overcoats and on parts where the base coats will have to be masked before moving to overcoats.
    For the frame parts I am using Alclad II Black Chrome, and for the standard armor I am using Alclad II Chrome.
    When applying Chrome it will initially lay down with a very shiny yet still somewhat grainy or dulled finish, so to achieve the smooth vac-plated/mirror-like finish on the Chrome-painted parts I simply buffed [gently wiped] them with a q-tip. The polished finish is so good you can actually make me out in the head and one of the hips!

  • MechaColle Jet VTOL Update #8: Completion!

    Finally done from Bandai’s Mecha Collection line of 10cm micromodels series of Ultraman franchise vehicles is the first one shown on screen: the Science Special Search Party’s secondary aircraft, the Sub VTOL!
    Displayed on the underside of the kit is the included option part, the bulbous flashbulb module that would be attached to the undersides on the series prop for quick cutaways of the Sub VTOL firing a rocket.
    The largest challenge with this kit wasn’t an actual challenge but instead a great deal of cleanup. While assembling the kit and placing model cement along all the seams, there was a massive amount of goopage at the stabilizer fins which, due to the locations of the seams, required some maneuvering and angling to properly sand…

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  • MechaColle Jet VTOL Update #8: Completion!

    Finally done is Bandai’s Mecha Collection line of 10cm micromodels’ first entry into the Ultraman franchise’s many vehicles, the Science Special Search Party’s iconic and primary aircraft, the Jet VTOL!
    While the kit is painted in the early-use colors (the Jet VTOL props no longer bore their white underbellies and yellow rudders in the later half of the series) my kit is displayed with the included option part: the tether harpoon launcher used late in the series to drag the morose kaiju Seabozu to a waiting rocket in the hopes that the displaced monster would be returned to his other-dimensional home.
    I tried something different with this than with my previously-built MechaColle Space VTOL and assembled the entire main kit before…

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  • Verfor99 posted a new activity comment 4 months, 1 week ago

    In reply to: Kakarot197 posted an update in the group Beginner Modeler - Modeling Competition 2017
    Trying to decide if I should go with black or brown panel lines. (or grey)
    View

    Most folks go with black or gray. I would recommend using brown only at the feet, maybe ankles, because that’s where most [brown] dirt will build up in real life.

  • MechaColle Sub VTOL & Jet VTOL Update #7: Decals

    A rare inclusion for Bandai kits, all Mecha Collection kits utilize water-transfer or water-slide decals. Simply cut the decal out, stick it in [lukewarm] water to activate the adhesive (Bandai recommends 3 seconds for theirs, it’s closer to fifteen for an easy application), slide the decal from the paper to the model, and repeatedly nudge into position while draining away the water with a q-tip.
    To improve the adhesion of the decals, I first dabbed some Micro Scale brand Micro Set, a solution which improves the adhesion of the decals. Then to improve the look of the decals I gently brushed them with Micro Sol, a softening solution which helps the decals to conform to uneven surfaces. This had the best results on the tailfin…

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  • CHROME MACHINE!! Update #5: Base Coat

    After a primer layer of Tamiya Fine Light Gray Primer (my favorite so far) all parts have received a coat of Testor’s Model Masters Gloss Black.
    A gloss black base coat is essential, if not mandatory, for realizing the best results from non-flat metallic paints.
    in the case of CHROME MACHINE!! all parts will be colored with Alclad II’s Chrome, Black Chrome, and Prismatic Holochrome.

  • MechaColle Sub VTOL & Jet VTOL Update #6: The Waiting Game

    Finally the paint’s all on! Had to go back and [heavily] spray more white on the underbelly and touch up some of the red of the Jet VTOL because of some transfers and scratches.
    Seriously, fuck white paint.
    Now I just have to wait for the paints to cure before I apply the waterslides. Fortunately I used enamels (Testor’s basic Gloss Red & Yellow and Model Masters Gloss White) so I only have to wait three, four days at most for the curing to complete (I’ll be using decal setter and softener on the waterslides and want to be safe and avoid any unfortunate chemical interactions).

  • Verfor99 posted a new activity comment 4 months, 2 weeks ago

    In reply to: Verfor99 posted an update in the group Beginner Modeler - Modeling Competition 2017
    MechaColle Sub VTOL & Jet VTOL Update #5: Detail Masking When using an airbrush to paint details on a single part or assembled structure, you can never have too much masking. -Never.-
    View

    If you want something super cheap, Testor’s makes a single-action called the Aztek.
    But the best ones to use are double-actions, they allow you to manage the amount of paint coming through and separately from the airflow control.
    More importantly is having a moisture trap and possibly pressure regulator right at the compressor.

  • Verfor99 posted a new activity comment 4 months, 2 weeks ago

    In reply to: Verfor99 posted an update in the group Beginner Modeler - Modeling Competition 2017
    MechaColle Sub VTOL & Jet VTOL Update #5: Detail Masking When using an airbrush to paint details on a single part or assembled structure, you can never have too much masking. -Never.-
    View

    That’s not really a problem if you manage to stay within reason of the manufacturer’s recommended ratios when thinning.

  • MechaColle Sub VTOL & Jet VTOL Update #5: Detail Masking

    When using an airbrush to paint details on a single part or assembled structure, you can never have too much masking.
    -Never.-

    • The other tip that goes with yours is to NOT thin the paint too much or it will bleed out. For factory-thinned airbrush paints, I pour them in airbrush cup and shoot. No thinner.

    • I’m thinking of switching to an airbrush for painting, since I’ve only used Gundam Markers and Tamiya Sprays. Do you have any recommendations on where to start?

    • You should get an airbrush where the tank to hold the paint is on top of it.

    • Depend on your budget and location. Reason being you can get replacement parts easily if the product is made near you.

      Any dual action airbrush is good. Avoid no names at rock-bottom prices. You can’t find replacement parts. Badger 105 is a good start.

    • That’s not really a problem if you manage to stay within reason of the manufacturer’s recommended ratios when thinning.

    • If you want something super cheap, Testor’s makes a single-action called the Aztek.
      But the best ones to use are double-actions, they allow you to manage the amount of paint coming through and separately from the airflow control.
      More importantly is having a moisture trap and possibly pressure regulator right at the compressor.

    • Ok thanks! I’ll look into dual action and ones that hold paint on top. I’ll see the Badger brand recommendation too. Hope there is somewhere close since I’m in Canada that sells this stuff!

    • Try ebay, amazon and online hobby shops. I get replacement parts there. Local hobby shops are worth a try.

      Another good one to consider is Paasche Talon. I like Badger 105 because the trigger is so soft that I can control precisely how much paint is coming out. Paasche triggers are semi-hard. I’ve dropped the 105 a few times right on the bathroom floor and the tip didn’t bend. 105 has no crown. Paasche has crowns. Do rinse the inner parts and cap the tip after use.

  • CHROME MACHINE!! Update #4: Paint Prep

    When spraypainting any snap-together or jointed model kit, it’s important to leave the kit as disassembled as possible and cover all pegs and holes with some manner of masking.
    Failure to do so can result in a much more difficult or dangerous final assembly, as multiple layers of primer/paint/topcoat make peg-hole connections require much more force to squeeze together, or place damaging stress on polycaps.

  • MechaColle Sub VTOL & Jet VTOL Update #4: Base Color

    I’ve laid out a base of Tamiya’s TS-30 Silver Leaf spraypaint, the remaining yellow, white, and red applications will be done later by airbrush.

  • MechaColle Jet VTOL Update #3: Gap Filling

    Slathering Liquid Green Stuff (from Citadel) into leftover gaps from seam-gluing to fill the holes and even parts out.
    Liquid Green Stuff’s pretty easy to use. Just mix with water to activate it and spread it on. It sands very well once it’s dried & cured but it also shrinks down a lot, so multiple applications may be needed.

  • MechaColle Sub VTOL Update #3: Gap Filling

    Slathering Liquid Green Stuff (from Citadel) into leftover gaps from seam-gluing to fill the holes and even parts out.
    The back-end piece didn’t sit very flush with the bottom of the fuselage, so there’s going to be a lot of LGS slathered on and sanded down to make up the difference…

  • CHROME MACHINE!! Update #3: Gap Filling

    Slathering Liquid Green Stuff (from Citadel) into leftover gaps from seam-gluing to fill the holes and even parts out.
    Fortunately I didn’t have to gap fill on too many parts, though I had to put a lot on the backpack.

  • CHROME MACHINE!! Update #2: Gluing & Sanding

    Working through the assembly, gluing in any seams that need to be hidden, then sanding down the excess goop.
    Fortunately every seam gooped out very well, won’t have to use very much Liquid Green Stuff to full gaps.

  • MechaColle Sub VTOL Update #2: Gluing & Sanding
    Working through the assembly, gluing in any seams that need to be hidden, then sanding down the excess goop.
    The cement gooped out much more than I thought on the wingtips, which are also very sharp and pointy. Ouch!
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