Skull Leader

don’t know about scratch building but you can get replacements of sorts now

https://www.hlj.com/product/ban978548/Gun

not sure the scale there but there’s a bunch of fins there so maybe one will be to your liking.

U can try n use isoproply alcohol maybe itll work ive practically used this stuff on everything when i mess up or want to get rid of paints

Banshee has the right idea, you can also use Gundam Marker Remover pens if you have any lying around as they’re alcohol based.

I used bleach in the recent past to strip chrome plated parts on kits, like on the MG Destiny Extreme Blast Mode. As the “gold” is the same, except for a clear yellow on top of it, the same method will work for you.
Just let the parts soak for at least 24 hours and use an old toothbrush to get the last bits out of the nooks and crannies. Be…[Read more]

What you can do is prime to see where it’s rough. If you use a grey primer then it’s easy to see changes in the surface and so, easy to try and fix. This is the best way I’ve found to smooth out plastic.

What Nick said is true, but you’ll be looking for a primer with “micro filler” added to it. Of course you need to sand it after priming it. For a flat paint, a 800 grid sandpaper will do, for gloss and metallics, a 1000 or 1200 grid sandpaper is needed. And you need to get a primer that is compatible with the paint you are using, provided you want…[Read more]

Right now i already stripped off the original paint for the tamiya primer so all i have to do is prime it up then check for scratched surfaces then sand it n then re prime n then paint?

I’m guessing: No.
The suit itself in 1/60 scale will measure 31.46cm. As the DRAGOONs on the backpack are roughly 3/4 of the height of the suit, 23.6cm, it may stand in that display case, but not with the wings folded out. I even doubt if the width is big enough to be honest.
Maybe someone else has a better idea, or better measures.
Building a MG…[Read more]

Sorry for the long post

Whatever you do, don’t use a lacquer thinner for the job! It will eat trough the future clear and effect your paint job. You could also use a turpentine to thin the oil paint.
You could also thin down an enamel paint with lighter fluid, enamel thinner, white spirit or benzine and clean up with the same agents. I find enamels best for doing a wash.…[Read more]

Separating the panels can be done in two ways. One is with a hobby/photo edged saw and carefully cut the piece following the panel line. The other way is using a panel line scribing tool. I recommend the one from Tamiya. Just keep scribing in the panel line until the parts are separated.
The hard thing to do is to keep the panel lines open. You…[Read more]

I’ve looked up some pictures of the “Hong Kong” Ver.Ka. Unicorn and it looks like a very light “gold” plating.
I would try a dot of silver and a tiny drop of clear yellow, not the normal mix of yellow and orange.
Before i knew of this mix, I used normal clear yellow on top of silver and it turned out really light instead of a, if you will, deeper…[Read more]

It looks similar to the gold on the Hyaku Shiki, maybe you could try to flat coat some regular Tamiya Gold leaf or Gold gundam Marker on a spare piece or empty runner from the 852, then see how the close the golds look.

I also use clear coat as primer for my kits and hand paint details. I usually go for matte because I want to take away the plastic shine from my finished kit. I think the slightly textured finish brought about by matte coat also gives better adhesion for my acrylics (Vallejo model and/or game color) But that’s just my personal preference and observation.

If I may ask, why not use a normal dedicated primer? They are deigned for that specific job.
But if I had to choose, I’d go for the gloss one. A matte leaves a “gritty” finish which may come trough in your paint job. On the other hand, a gloss clear will leave the same effect as clear plastic, the surface gets really smooth, so I see no really…[Read more]

You really should use actual primer. Clear coat is intended to protect paint, and will not adhere to the bare plastic as well as primer. the only time you will normally be painting on top of clear coat, is when doing panel lines, washes, highlighting, etc. after which you’ll clear coat over that.

However, if you are set on not using primer,…[Read more]

In my case, I don’t have enough time to use an actual surface primer and color the whole kit. (I don’t have an airbrush either even if I had the time, so I can only hand brush the colors in.) So I use the clear matte to protect the decals and I use it as “primer” before I paint small details. Since I deal primarily with MGs, the color is almost…[Read more]