Skull Leader

  • GAML posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 10 years, 9 months ago

    I have a query for you guys. I’ve started modding very beginner, and I’ve a set of Hobby Base 1/144 hands I’d like to use. Problem is the ball joint is too small for the square hole, to pop in and out. I know I have a few options available between pla plate, putty to fill the gap, ball joint cap held in with plate or putty… but what would you…[Read more]

    • Could try coating the ball in super glue to make the ball bigger. Seems a favorite.
      What kit are you swapping the hands on?

    • You could also cut the ball and pin from the kit hand you are replacing, and transplant it to the aftermarket hand. Cut the kit pin out with a portion of the hand, which basically gives you a longer pin, trim and sand to match the round pin section, then drill and glue the pin into the aftermarket hand. Does that make sense? I always do this…[Read more]

      • vCJD also suggested this as an option of using the ball portion and inserting the new hand ball joint into the larger one. The issue with it is the kits hand is that rubber hand and not a solid. Here’s the comparison http://goo.gl/Gs52Ds
        I’m playing around with some poly joints can could possible end up wedging those in and securing them with…[Read more]

  • sparta112 posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 10 years, 9 months ago

    Hey guys does any one know if hlj sales putty? Been looking for it but I can’t find I

    • Same thing that hlj also take off all the polyster putty and mori mori on the page, I myself also having a hard time locate one (mori mori)

  • Daniel posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 10 years, 9 months ago

    Any recommendations about the most shiniest topcoat/clear coat/varnish there is? I’d be laying it over enamels.

    • Future Finish?

      • I kind of want to go past that one… It jost come to as not shiny and smooth enough for me. Though the end result is pretty good and it’s so damn easy to work with I’d be willing to pay more and sweat a bot in order to get that perfect finish. Though, doing some sort of compound clear coat would be a bite too much I guess.

        • Way too many “thoughs” in that reply, sorry. 😛

        • I find the FF works well, but as you say, if there’s something better for a “special” gloss finish out there, I’d love to know too!

          • http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bpTm1MBX3K0 this made me think about if there’s something better perhaps. GunPla kits in general can do with FF (Final Fantasy) for that gloss-enough to more or less high gloss finish. I even put FF on straight flat for semi semi flat look. It’s just amazing that the glossines of the finish can be toned up or down in…[Read more]

            • Right now I’m trying to research as much as I can about Alclads aqua gloss coat but all I can find is that it is, in fact, Future-like to the point that people say it’s identical…

            • I find if I just lightly dust with FF I get a nice “not too glossy” look, although if I specifically want a flatter look I use the Alclad light sheen (or whatever it’s called).

              A gloss that could be buffed nicely would be interesting. Anyone got any ideas for that?

    • The best gloss coat is urethane clear. All real car use the same type of urethane clear, same goes with most pro builder.

      I myself still prefer using Mr. Hobby GX clear and Gaianotes EX- clear.

      I don’t think which clear is matter, since car builder will still need to polish it. 🙂

  • masterDS64 posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 10 years, 10 months ago

    Hi all, I have yet another question, this time about rg strike freedom and its frame…

    I don’t like it, I wish to spray paint it, would typical tamiya spray can paint be alright, and would I have to unfold the parts out or can they be left in “runner state” for easy of paint, and would adding a top coat be wise?

    Friend of mine said to hand…[Read more]

    • I believe the better option would be to buy a spray can of gold. An airbrush would be the best option but its not a tool that’s easily accessible by everybody so out of the two options (spray can or handbrushing), a spray can would be the best way to go. Hand brushing takes alot of time and effort to make it as smooth and with the rg frames, it…[Read more]

      • So I see, and I saw that amazing rg freedom before and thought “yeah I want mine like that” 🙂

        Im aware of airflow control issues with cans but already after a botched paint job I kinda understand how to work with it a tad better, but I thank you none the less…

        Also, what gold would be the best, I kinda want it bright but from the local tamiya…[Read more]

        • Sorry im not very familiar with spray cans at all (I use the airbrush) but after looking at the tamiya spray paint range they appear to only have 3 golds available in the spray paint range. The champagne gold might be a bit dull because it appears to be closer to the gold used on that Strike Freedom than the other two golds. Im not entirely sure…[Read more]

    • I’m not sure about spray cans though simply because spray cans are lacquer paints and lacquer paints tend to be a bit more agrressive towards the plastic. Thin movable parts may become more brittle. Especially if you’re playing around with your kits a lot. In my opinion, these kits are not toys and shouldn’t be played with. Once posed like you…[Read more]

      • Im using tamiya…thats model kit plastic friendly paint, unless someone told me wrong and my hg gouf has started melting while I wasn’t looking?

        I do admit in a currently stalled project (the gouf, broke a part during a test fit) I did consider using car body paints but I was smart and found out 95% of what you posted, you meant well but I knew…[Read more]

  • ExeonNecroz posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 10 years, 10 months ago

    Question. Do any one know how to custom build parts for any Gundam kits? If so please let me know, if there is a video I will appreciate if you can link it.

    • Depends how custom, you can use existing parts and just make new combinations, say like mg nu gundam ver ka shoulders with hyaku shiki arms and hands from whatever that fits, if you built a few kits and have experience with how parts work try going to dalong dot net as that site has manuals for all the kits and a parts break down so if you…[Read more]

      • I was thinking in redoing some armor pieces to what I would like them to look. I was thinking to make them clear colored and some custom weapons for my 1/100 SPALLOW. Plus I was thinking in doing a mesh up between My SPALLOW and a ASTRAEA.

        • :/ by clear colored do you want to see thru the piece?

          If that’s the case it’s not possible unless the piece was already clear, say like clear beam blade, clear paint can change their look but you can’t make another piece already clear, otherwise im not sure what you mean…

          Best guess is to head to dalong and see how the 2 are built and see…[Read more]

  • kissarmy8193 posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 10 years, 10 months ago

    So I’m thinking about get a Titanium Finish kit of the MG Shinanju. I was wanting to know if there is any particular way to remove the parts from the runner. Without leaving a nub or taking off the finish. I only ask since I built an HG Unicorn Destroy mode Titanium finish, and I’m left with ether nubs with the finish or an area where I trimmed of…[Read more]

    • Oh god, I know your pain with that unicorn and anyone intested in the plated hg phenex i WARN with nub marks…

      I looked around, but its not possible, logic dictates there isn’t a way since it uses a simple base plastic in qhich a silver then a colored metallic coat go onto, to cut WILL leave marks…

      There is a tutorial by vegeta8259 on…[Read more]

      • Thanks for the help. I will go look on the website. I’m not very good with painting or selecting the color but if i get time I’ll give it a go.

        • Certainly won’t be easy, but if you do find the time be sure to do a test practice on something other than the piece you wish to fix, for me I just try not to look at the kits too much and put them in the back away from sight XD

    • Just in case you want to paint the sinanju like the titanium color coat. Is pretty simple, Gaianote Starbright silver, then coat with Gaianote clear red. Depend how many coat you want, darker red need more.

      I did mine, with 2 coat. Still working on it. And yes, painting it need patient as clear color tend to runny than normal color.

  • ace posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 10 years, 10 months ago

    hi evryone.im from the phillippines. just wan to know. where can i get parts for my 1/144 valverave 1 coz i kinda lost the facemask.i know the kit is new but i hope i can get a spare.cant post my kit n the competition. with incomplete parts… sighh… thanx

    • Is there any Bandai Philippines ditribution retail? if there is, then you might want to approach them, they might able to help you.
      I not going to say high chance they will replace, but no harm trying. 🙂

    • Normally id try gentei kits and make a request but their part replacement service has been down for some time…there is also gginfinite but not sure if theirs is still going :S

      I dont get why bandai limits part sales to japan only leaving us to find people that act like agents, its annoying

  • hey i look on the hlj page for a set of hands from the builder parts and thiers like 3 diffrent version of EFF hansds one just 144, on says small, the others says large is thier a diffrents besides size of the hand.

  • Diego posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 10 years, 10 months ago

    So i know this has been answered a hundred times but nub marks, i can get the flash off but the marks leave me eye sores. Please can a brother get some help.

    • yeah I can. There are several options you can use. Gundam Marker, that’s what they were invented for. Very fine grit sandpaper, I like P400 but some people go even higher. Clip it off the runner with high quality nippers, believe me a good clean high quality cut will make a difference. Lastly you paint you kit and you will never see it.
      I hope that helps.

  • masterDS64 posted an update in the group Group logo of Q/A & Help GroupQ/A & Help Group 10 years, 10 months ago

    …Ok it hasn’t been there for long but I need to ask as I wish to start this asap.

    I know painting kits adds to friction thus stiffer movements, but would using a clear coat (flat or gloss) have the same effect…for long periods of time?

    tldr nu gundam ver ka, fin funnel connections, I want them to HOLD, same for bazooka, i can’t colour match…[Read more]

    • No. It won’t have the scratch mark if you handle the pose more careful. I sprayed all flat coat and clear coat on my Gundam. And on and off, I will strike a different pose.

      Yes. The clear coat and paint will make the joint stiff. That is no way to avoid.

      Scratch the parts is pretty common. One more tips, do not spray primer, paint and clear…[Read more]

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