Skull Leader

Practice your brush strokes if you’re gonna paint, or learn how to use a spray can well and dont forget to topcoat it in gloss for shine in matte/flat for how you’d like the final result to look.

But how are you gonna kit bash the 2 exactly, the old hguc really just needs a better head, and with a high mobility zaku 2 or just some of its parts…[Read more]

tbh what type of top coat depends on what type of kit it is. Most kits tend to look good in flat clear tho so I’d have to recommend that. . .

Firstly, once you painted the kit, a GLOSS coat must be applied or else you’d have “silvering” (makes the decals look horrid), once decals applied ON TOP OF THE GLOSS apply another gloss or matte to finish (although some here report silvering with straight to matte on top of decals could gloss again then matte over or stop at the second gloss if…[Read more]

1. for best results clip and paint individually, but well inner frame you don’t really see too much of it except around the joints usually, not counting transforming kits. so actually you can for the most part get away with painting the parts assembled, but make sure you don’t somehow mess up the movements, just bend the joints to check ,also you…[Read more]

well I’ve never done this because if the part itself is green then you can’t really get rid of that, so the green will always be there, red is the complimentary color to green so if you put red over green you’ll theoretically block all light and lose the transparency altogether, though in practice you’ll probably still get a bit of light through…[Read more]

…you mean…hand paint with a brush or…do you mean something else?

*calls for an airbrush expert to help*

alright well first off yes you can make a gunplay look good hand brushing, gonna assume that’s what you meant, but it’s not easy. as for airbrushing since you have one it’s not all that hard to operate.

there are a few things you’re gonna need. First a compressor, I’ll assume you already have that, now you can get better results adding things…[Read more]

http://www.graemenattress.com/wp/1100-mg-sazabi-ver-ka/ – what I did was three different undercoats – white, grey and black and the same red on top of each. That gave me the differentiation I needed. I dunno if that works with your spray cans, but you could experiment and see.

if you want the actual colors from the manual I did a bit of digging and found the mixes they tell you to use:

red1
——
shine red 90%
white 5%
orange 5%
few drops grey

red 2
——–
shine red 95%
russet 5%
few drops white
few drops grey

red 3
——–
russet 65%
shine red 35%
few drops white
few drops grey

on another note finding out about…[Read more]

Why not one pic of it in your intended pose on the diorama, and 2 more from different angles while on the diorama?

For some builds ive seen the diorama IS part of the build.

That said I always thought for early stages you’d rock up with the build and get judged…

as far as I know clear white doesn’t exist. Tamiya pearl white I have used and it’s very translucent. In other words you’re gonna need multiple coats for it to look white, in my experience about 3 coats is pretty good, as for a titanium finish. Also it’s very sparkly, when it’s still wet if you get it into the sunlight it’s really something…[Read more]

Are you airbrushing or rattlecanning?

1. No it’s not really necessary. I don’t sand my kits, I just apply a coat of primer of the pieces for the paint to stick onto the piece.

2. I would say airbrush for all of them because unless you’ve been practicing for a long time or are willing to do many hours of sitting and painting light coats of paints with a hand brush, airbrush will yield…[Read more]

1. Sand where necessary, say to remove a nub mark or a moulding line. Otherwise undercoat as necessary. Some paints can go on straight, some benefit from undercoat and some require undercoat.

2. Airbrush.

3. Future Finish

4. Yes, Alclad metallics need just a single (often light) coat on top of their gloss black primer to work wonderfully. They…[Read more]

1. Okay, I’m going to be brief. Yes & no. No you dont need to, you can just wash your parts, to remove residue left over from manufacturing, but, it is a good habit to at least light buff every surface to increase bondingwith your paintprimer.

Far as priming, its dependent. If your changing colors, light over dark, its a must. If its same or…[Read more]

1.no but it’s a good idea, but do keep in mind that paint, including the primer on joints will increase the friction and too much friction will make parts hard to move and can cause them to break. in other words mask the joints before spraying.

2. I’d say airbrush if you want to paint an entire piece. For details it can really depend. Raised…[Read more]

I FF before and after water slides and that works fine. When I finally put a flat coat on top, to me the water-slides look totally integrated into the kit and look real.

There’s not much in the way of traditional panel lines on the kit, but there are some indents that do benefit from some lining. I’d just do what you feel works well.

ok cause I usually do allot of panel lining or i just kinda follow the box art as well but from this PG astray the box art doesnt show any panel lining and just wasnt sure if people just build then as they are kinda pricey to mess up.

you know i am building the same kit and one of the hands had a whole lot of extra plastic all over the fingers and the part that you use to help hold the weapons. i was able to clean up most of the extra plastic around the fingers and they work fine if a little tighter than normal, but the attachment piece was a loss. it wouldn’t rotate no matter…[Read more]